Knife Sharpening

D

donm1234

Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
37
Another newbie question..

Seems there is a lot of different sharpening methods around, stones, fixtures, and other gadgets.

I can always remember as a kid my grandfather just using a flat sharpening stone buy I never learn the correct way to use one and I am guessing if the blade is held at the wrong angle I could do more harm then good.

Is there a consensus on the form as to the better methods to sharpen a blade?

Again guessing I am thinking the old way of using a stone is best so what type and grade stone do I need?

Thanks in Advance
Don
 
I am happy with my GATCO kit. I can attain an very sharp edge with practically no learning curve.
 
most the time its my Vs KMG and micron belts (no jig and done wet)
if "stoning " DMT bench stones in 600 and 1200 then stropped
 
I used to sharpen for restaurants freehand on DMT Diamond stones. I am drawing a blank right now on the guy's name, but there is a guy who was at Ashokan who is a dealer for them, (Howard maybe?) does straight razor sharpening, might as well get them from someone in the community. I swear by the DMT diamond stones. If you are new you can use the edge angle guide systems, but with a little practice I think you can do better freehand. YMMV

-Page
 
grind that sucker till you form a burr on one side or both sides and then use a buffer with some 400 grit compound and some emery compound on the other wheel to polish off the edge...comes out sharper than a razor!
 
I free hand my knives. I usually use stones but...

Today I sharpened a knife with sandpaper. It really wasn't all that bad. In fact, it came out a little better than if I had used a stone.

I'm probably just doing something wrong...
 
get a spyderco sharpmaker! its an almost foolproof sharpening system and will work with and blade size, style, and plain or serrated edges.,,VWB.
 
I have a Lansky set, which as you mentioned, is based on stones. It works on exactly the same basis as hand sharpening except that has a jig arrangement to keep the sharpening angle perfectly at the designated angle. In my opinion this or similar types are the best to use. I like to see that perfectly flat mirror glint at the edge when I angle the blade in the light. You can also get a wide range of abrasives from coarse to superfine, diamond hones, ones shaped for serrations etc.

I do my edge grind/ polish with a 'positive' grind angle, which seems to make it cut beautifully.

Pretty much avoid all those quick and easy kitchen sharpening gadgets. I have seen very few that are truly effective for a good edge.

Lang
 
sunshadow said:
I used to sharpen for restaurants freehand on DMT Diamond stones. I am drawing a blank right now on the guy's name, but there is a guy who was at Ashokan who is a dealer for them, (Howard maybe?) does straight razor sharpening, might as well get them from someone in the community. I swear by the DMT diamond stones. If you are new you can use the edge angle guide systems, but with a little practice I think you can do better freehand. YMMV

-Page
Click to expand...

Howard is the man to see for for sharpening supplies. http://www.theperfectedge.com/
He is slightly obsessed with sharpening ;)

From my experience with sharpening, jigs,grinders and the like are great but nothing beats being in the woods and knowing how to sharpen by hand on a small stone.
 
I'm no pro by any stretch.

I've used the Lansky setups, and a generic setup that was the same concept as the Lansky and Gatco systems. There are a few tricks, but you'll have to work pretty hard to do more damage than good and I can get any knife I have (with decent steel...I like practicing on those horrid $2 kitchen knifes:o) to shave my arm/hand.

Tips:

Tape the back of the blade where the camp holds if you care about very small scratches.

Get the clamp TIGHT!!!

If it's a long blade (greater than 4") you may need to move the clamp for different sections of the blade. The angle gets ever so very slightly lower as you move away from the clamp.

As you finish use less pressure and less strokes per side until you're down to practically no pressure and 2-3 strokes with the finest stone you have.
 
I'm no pro by any stretch.

I've used the Lansky setups, and a generic setup that was the same concept as the Lansky and Gatco systems. There are a few tricks, but you'll have to work pretty hard to do more damage than good and I can get any knife I have (with decent steel...I like practicing on those horrid $2 kitchen knifes:o) to shave my arm/hand.

Tips:

Tape the back of the blade where the camp holds if you care about very small scratches.

Get the clamp TIGHT!!!

If it's a long blade (greater than 4") you may need to move the clamp for different sections of the blade. The angle gets ever so very slightly lower as you move away from the clamp.

As you finish use less pressure and less strokes per side until you're down to practically no pressure and 2-3 strokes with the finest stone you have.
 
This thread reminds me that I need to finish the stand (portable, folding leg ,custom oak table) for the new sharpening system I invented. It has as the cutting source a variable speed driven 2.5X48 belt sander with a glass platen . The drive motor is a 3/4 HP,completely sealed, stainless steel,reversible, gear drive ,DC unit, that turns from 1 to 750 RPM with no noticeable torque difference. The motor is completely self contained (no boxes or external drive units) and originally cost $1750 (used to drive medical pumps in an operating room).It runs on 110V. I got it as unused surplus for $75. The blade is held on a floating quill arm (just pick it up and flip it over) that rides along a horizontal rod,allowing a long knife to be moved its entire length at the same angle.The clamps are either 3" or 5", aluminum jawed, and very strong. The rod can be positioned from 5 to 25 degrees.There is a digital angle gage to set up the blade that reads in tenths of a degree. Belts are made by Klingspore for me (and are also available elsewhere).I have from 120 grit to 800 grit, polishing and stropping belts too. I am tempted to do some experiments with sharpening using diamond paste up to 50,000, on polyester belts,just to see what it will turn out.
The unit is operated while siting. I'll post photos and construction details when I get the table done.
Stacy
 
Get the Harbor Freight 1x30!!!!! get grits going from 80, 120, 220, 400, 800, 1100, much cheaper than a nice set of stones, even a 400 grit is good enough for a working knife.
 
I only use a fine Arkansas stone, its not hard to get razor sharp.

Stacy that sounds neat.
 
Interesting, a mixed bag of kits and stones only. I really would have thought the old school way of using a stone would have been the method of choice, but my guess was wrong.

Thanks for your input.
Don
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top