Knife storage

[TKAZ]

I think a regular tool box is a great choice, they can lock, rather safe, you can place a cloth or something to protect the knives. Obviously you want a brand new one so it's nice and clean, a nice black one would look sharp. Your size would vary, small, medium and larger for knives and even hand guns.

 

[stormyone]

 

[link2derek]

I keep all my non-EDC knives in their original boxes, in a non-descript duffle, in an unidentified room of my undetectable bunker, which is in an undislosed location.

 

[sykes3170]

We used to use those for keeping blueprints in the old days. They're great, very well-made. And 28x40" drawers can keep a lot of knives per drawer. But, they are quite large. The price is, I think, very reasonable for the quality and the amount of storage you'll get. They are designed to fit into an office environment and may not go so well in a home decor. They're also quite large so you'll need a big space.






In general, be careful about the material you set knives on long-term. I was once shown a beautiful knife with ivory handles. Beautiful... until I turned it over and the ivory on the other side was stained green. It had been stored in a display case on a piece of green felt for many years and the dye had migrated out of the felt and into the ivory. Irreparable. Ruined.

In general, knives should have air circulation around them in storage. A water-tight container sounds like a good idea, but it is definitely wrong.

And desiccant packs? Throw them away! They are not magic. They don't make moisture go away. Indeed, they actually attract it and absorb it. Then, under the right circumstances, they will release it. Also, while dry is good for metal, dry can be the death of other materials common on knives and firearms.

These things we often call "Safes" are what UL calls either "Security Containers" and/or "Fire-Resistant Containers." UL doesn't recognize the word "Safe." If your "safe" is a "Fire-Resistant Container," and that is something you value then think about what you put into that container. Minimize the amount of flammable materials you put into your safe. And I caution against storing ammo in your gun safe. Ammo is not expensive (at least compared to guns) and due to its low value vs. its high weight, it's not a common theft item. I recommend that you get a simple locking cabinet to put the ammo in beside the safe and not store ammo inside the Fire-Resistant Container.

I was told by a fireman to store ammo in a fire proof safe to keep it from going off in case of a fire. He said that ammo stored outside a safe will keep them from putting the fire out. It would be a helpless feeling to have yourself and a fire crew watch from a distance as your house went up in flames.

 

[Dorito Monk]

nope. I put my knives in an old ammo box. It keeps them dry, protected, and its easy to store knives in. I'm probably going to upgrade in the future when I start getting a lot more knives though.......

+1 :thumbup:

I don't generally keep my knives in an ammo can, but they're great for odds and ends of documents/receipts, etc. Don't have to worry about things getting wet or torn.

 

[Cougar Allen]

I was told by a fireman to store ammo in a fire proof safe to keep it from going off in case of a fire. He said that ammo stored outside a safe will keep them from putting the fire out. It would be a helpless feeling to have yourself and a fire crew watch from a distance as your house went up in flames.

That's a lot of nonsense. Smokeless powder doesn't explode unless confined; it just burns fast. The bullet will be propelled a few inches before it runs out of steam.

Loaded guns, with a cartridge in the chamber, will discharge in a fire. That is dangerous. Black powder can also be dangerous.

 

[RevDevil]

 

[sykes3170]

That's a lot of nonsense. Smokeless powder doesn't explode unless confined; it just burns fast. The bullet will be propelled a few inches before it runs out of steam.

Loaded guns, with a cartridge in the chamber, will discharge in a fire. That is dangerous. Black powder can also be dangerous.

Maybe, but he's the fireman and I'll not question him if my house is on fire. I do know a kid that threw a .22 shell in a fire and had to go to the hospital to have part of the casing removed from his stomach. If they explode something is going somewhere.

 

[boring]

on the shells in a fire...google mythbusters, chambered round deadly, loose rounds not likely. As far as storage, what would be recommended to line a drawer with to prevent moisture and or storage scratches? I am currently using a rubber(?) coated white mesh. I have noticed that the red color from a sak knife seems to have stained this white material. Any thoughts?

 

[Gollnick]

The ignition temperature of typical gunpowder is around 800F. It varies a bit with exact formulation (some exotics can be as low as 300F).

The ignition temperature of paper is famously 454F. Well... not exactly. It makes for a dramatic book title anyway. The ignition temperature of paper is typically around 450F; it varies with the exact type of paper, but 450F is a good rule-of-thumb number for typical paper. UL assumes that all fire-resistant containers are for the keeping of paper business records. As a result, the standard test is how long can the container keep its internal temperature below 350F, 100F below the ignition of paper. 350F is how hot UL thinks the inside should get. 350F is a lot lower than 800F. So, I withdraw my previous comment and now think that it is ok to store ammo in a fire-resistant container.

BTW, UL set the 350F number based on the preservation of paper business records. I suspect that some of us keep other things in our fire-resistant containers... steel things. The melting point of steel, of course, depends on the exact alloy, but it's over 2500F. But, knives and guns can be ruined by much lower temperatures because these things are made out of heat-treated, hardened steel. The annealing temperature, the temperature above which that hardening is undone, varies depending on the alloy and the heat treatment process used, but around 450F is not unusual. By curious coincidence, this is about the ignition temperature of paper. So, UL's plan to keep safely below the ignition point of paper works well for the preservation of hardened steel objects too.

If you have a fire-resistant container in your house, there are some simple precautions you can take to improve its performance in a fire.

• Position it on the ground floor preferably on a hard-slab. If the container is on an upper floor, the floor under it could collapse and the container -- which is often heavy -- will then fall quite some distance and the fall could break open the container.
• Position the container on an outside wall. In a worst-case fire, the hottest spot is typically in the middle. We want the fire-resistant container as far away from that hot spot as possible. Also, positioning along an outside wall will allow fire fighters to direct cooling water onto the container.
• In the event of a fire, inform the fire fighters of where your container is and they can direct cooling water to that area to keep the container as cool as possible.

Most fire-resistant containers have a heat-activated seal on the door. The heat of the fire activates this material and the container essentially calks its door shut, sealed tight against outside water. So, the water from a fire-fighting effort won't get inside.

Many fire-resistant containers also have a thermal re-locker mechanism. This is a permanent lock which can not be unlocked from outside of the container.
It's activated by the heat of the fire and permanently locks the container shut. Once the container is recovered from the rubble of the fire, it will have to be destructively cut open by a trained professional. But, if the opening is done correctly, you should find the contents in good order.

 

[arcteryx79]

Bills custom cases, multipacks of 6 and 12 for my folders. Then placed into the smaller sized Rubbermaid container with latches.

 

[G19G26]

It's not the bullet, but the brass to be worried about. Bullet will travel only minor distance caompared to the brass ( mass ratio thing).

That's a lot of nonsense. Smokeless powder doesn't explode unless confined; it just burns fast. The bullet will be propelled a few inches before it runs out of steam.

Loaded guns, with a cartridge in the chamber, will discharge in a fire. That is dangerous. Black powder can also be dangerous.