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Knife Suggestion for a Farmer
- Thread starter nezzman
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As a farmer myself I would recommend the Foray out of your Benchmade suggestions. Great steel, open pillar, and robust.
I use a Spyderco Gayle Bradley quite a bit as the steel is tough, has great retention and ease of sharpening. Pocket clip makes it easy to carry and thumb hole makes it easier to open when wearing gloves.
I use a Spyderco Gayle Bradley quite a bit as the steel is tough, has great retention and ease of sharpening. Pocket clip makes it easy to carry and thumb hole makes it easier to open when wearing gloves.
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FullMetalJackass
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My Benchmade 950 Rift was my resident barn and field knife, along with a Victorinox Soldier.
I would also suggest a heavy duty fixed blade.
I would also suggest a heavy duty fixed blade.
ScottK
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I raise angus cattle on my farm and usually carry a Victorinox Pioneer or Soldier along with a BM Bugout or Buck 110LT. The Pioneer handles a lot of the multitool type work, actually it has a main blade that is as thick at the spine as the Bugout. A plus is the awl in the Vic can in a pinch be used to bend the clip for connecting barb wire to a t-post. However the bugout's quick access with the pocket clip and ease of opening and closing one handed is also very useful.
Hey nezzman. You are on the right track I think. I do farm stuff as well, with a pretty heavy emphasis on cattle.
Last year, (or whenever they came out, I kinda forget) I got a couple of Bugouts, one of each blade style. The half-serrated has really become my go to knife for heavy work. The serrations are great on bale wrap and ear tags. I looked for a long time for something that would handle that well. Going to try a Spyderedge this coming winter. The S30V steel has performed pretty well. I have had a Benchmade dealer sharpen it once, since the opportunity arose.
I can see it being good for bandage duty as well. You certainly want a locking blade for stuff like that, unless your critters stand a lot stiller than mine do!
Nothings perfect tho, and the axis lock, for me at least, get's dirty easily and then it gets gritty and then I have to deal with that. My half serrated also had brutal lock stick when new as well. It has improved with use. It does have some flex if you really get with the program, so if you know you are inherently "hard" on knives then this might be a little lightweight.
I recently gifted a mini griptilian with the sheepsfoot blade and spydie hole to a farmin' pal and he really has been liking the edge holding of the 20CV steel. Sheepsfoot is good for using around animals.
My father has used a TL-29 of some kind virtually his entire life and he has farmed that entire time. Of course, he buys them at the flea market and sharpens them on a bench grinder so we clearly are very different types of people.
Last year, (or whenever they came out, I kinda forget) I got a couple of Bugouts, one of each blade style. The half-serrated has really become my go to knife for heavy work. The serrations are great on bale wrap and ear tags. I looked for a long time for something that would handle that well. Going to try a Spyderedge this coming winter. The S30V steel has performed pretty well. I have had a Benchmade dealer sharpen it once, since the opportunity arose.
I can see it being good for bandage duty as well. You certainly want a locking blade for stuff like that, unless your critters stand a lot stiller than mine do!
Nothings perfect tho, and the axis lock, for me at least, get's dirty easily and then it gets gritty and then I have to deal with that. My half serrated also had brutal lock stick when new as well. It has improved with use. It does have some flex if you really get with the program, so if you know you are inherently "hard" on knives then this might be a little lightweight.
I recently gifted a mini griptilian with the sheepsfoot blade and spydie hole to a farmin' pal and he really has been liking the edge holding of the 20CV steel. Sheepsfoot is good for using around animals.
My father has used a TL-29 of some kind virtually his entire life and he has farmed that entire time. Of course, he buys them at the flea market and sharpens them on a bench grinder so we clearly are very different types of people.
Looking over the suggestions I can say the following.
I'm not a big fan of the Spyderco blade shape, the only one I really kind of like is the Manix 2.
As for a SAK, I don't want to be carrying bulk around in my pockets.
Non locking - No go, I like my fingers, and cows tend to kick when trying to take bandages off their feet, which makes the knife fold sometimes.
Leatherman - Have 2, never carry them (One lives in my car, the other in the man drawer in the kitchen)
Fixed blade - I don't want to have a sheathed knife, anything on my belt annoys me when wearing overalls or waterproof trousers.
The spec I need is -
I wouldn't say the knife gets "heavy use" but I do pry open those security tab things on drums to get the lid open... My Kershaw Leek handled it, until the tip bent, so something a bit beefier will hold up.
Thanks again for all the replies!
My search continues lol
I'm not a big fan of the Spyderco blade shape, the only one I really kind of like is the Manix 2.
As for a SAK, I don't want to be carrying bulk around in my pockets.
Non locking - No go, I like my fingers, and cows tend to kick when trying to take bandages off their feet, which makes the knife fold sometimes.
Leatherman - Have 2, never carry them (One lives in my car, the other in the man drawer in the kitchen)
Fixed blade - I don't want to have a sheathed knife, anything on my belt annoys me when wearing overalls or waterproof trousers.
The spec I need is -
- 2.8-3.5 inches or thereabouts
- Locking
- Folding
- Not too big or bulky
- Has a pocket clip
- Decent steel (cutting sh*t off cows tails dulls a knife pretty fast)
- Stainless
- Drop point, or something I can use to poke holes in things...
I wouldn't say the knife gets "heavy use" but I do pry open those security tab things on drums to get the lid open... My Kershaw Leek handled it, until the tip bent, so something a bit beefier will hold up.
Thanks again for all the replies!
My search continues lol
Hey nezzman. You are on the right track I think. I do farm stuff as well, with a pretty heavy emphasis on cattle.
Last year, (or whenever they came out, I kinda forget) I got a couple of Bugouts, one of each blade style. The half-serrated has really become my go to knife for heavy work. The serrations are great on bale wrap and ear tags. I looked for a long time for something that would handle that well. Going to try a Spyderedge this coming winter. The S30V steel has performed pretty well. I have had a Benchmade dealer sharpen it once, since the opportunity arose.
I can see it being good for bandage duty as well. You certainly want a locking blade for stuff like that, unless your critters stand a lot stiller than mine do!
Nothings perfect tho, and the axis lock, for me at least, get's dirty easily and then it gets gritty and then I have to deal with that. My half serrated also had brutal lock stick when new as well. It has improved with use. It does have some flex if you really get with the program, so if you know you are inherently "hard" on knives then this might be a little lightweight.
I recently gifted a mini griptilian with the sheepsfoot blade and spydie hole to a farmin' pal and he really has been liking the edge holding of the 20CV steel. Sheepsfoot is good for using around animals.
My father has used a TL-29 of some kind virtually his entire life and he has farmed that entire time. Of course, he buys them at the flea market and sharpens them on a bench grinder so we clearly are very different types of people.
Hmm, that's interesting about the ear tags, always have issues getting them out without wire cutters.
How does the Bugout hold up to day to day usage?
I'm not too worried about dirt getting into the Axis lock, if I keep the knife clipped on my pocket, it stays away from the dirt at the bottom of it haha.
For sure, locking is essential! Cows like to kick.
I did look at the mini grip, in 2 minds as to whether I like the handle lol. It may grow on me.
sharp_edge
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In this case, I recommend Benchmade 551-1, which can be had for no more than $150 in great condition here in the Exchange. The cpm 20cv steel is among the best current folding knife steels. Axis lock is easy and fun to operate and among the strongest locks.
My Bugout has held up very well, but I do have to admit to being on a Spyderco kick lately. Been EDCing a combo edge Delica.
The Bugout does still ride to work with me tho, in the glove box, in case I need it. The clip has provided good retention and it also has a nice big lanyard hole in case you want to lash it to yourself (which I sometimes do while doing "tractor stuff" so I don't lose it). The bale wrap is the hardest on the edge, I try to touch it up often when I'm removing a lot of wraps to save myself a big sharpening job.
That blue color is nice and easy to spot if you set your knife down as well. And the blue anodized standoffs look cool too.
Another cattle farmer weighing in.
My personal EDCs are a Buck Vantage 345 and a Leatherman Wave or Mora 511.Depends on what I expect or feel like.
I've also carried Case Stockman's and Sodbuster,jr.
A Buck 301 is,I hear, a great knife.Like to own one,someday.
Depending on you needs,any or all of these will work.Keep in mind while quality is a very big consideration,lower cost is a factor should you lose it.Another thing to consider is how quickly do you need to "deploy" the blade.A knife deep in your pocket isn't the easiest to get sometimes.That's why i like one of mine to be a pocket clip like the Vantage or a fixed blade like the Mora.Either can be put to use with just one hand,if need be.
Whatever you pick,if it doesn't work for or fit your needs,it isn't what you want to stay with.
My personal EDCs are a Buck Vantage 345 and a Leatherman Wave or Mora 511.Depends on what I expect or feel like.
I've also carried Case Stockman's and Sodbuster,jr.
A Buck 301 is,I hear, a great knife.Like to own one,someday.
Depending on you needs,any or all of these will work.Keep in mind while quality is a very big consideration,lower cost is a factor should you lose it.Another thing to consider is how quickly do you need to "deploy" the blade.A knife deep in your pocket isn't the easiest to get sometimes.That's why i like one of mine to be a pocket clip like the Vantage or a fixed blade like the Mora.Either can be put to use with just one hand,if need be.
Whatever you pick,if it doesn't work for or fit your needs,it isn't what you want to stay with.
Ajack60
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- Apr 21, 2013
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I'm surprised the Leek has lasted this long. I'd agree that it's not exactly a hard chore knife. The thing to keep in mind is that where the Leek bent, another steel may break under the same circumstances. So, sounds like you need a knife that will take some abuse and keep a good working edge. I know you stated Kershaw is out of the picture, but have you looked at a Kershaw Link in S35VN steel ? Or possibly a ZT0770 in Elmax steel ? The style of the blade on the ZT may not fit your needs, but it checks the boxes in what you're looking for. Both are assisted open, which comes in handy wearing gloves.
Personally, I am a fan of thicker handles, but since you seem to prefer a more svelte form, I would suggest:
1. BM Stryker 2 - discountinued but you might be able to find a a dealer that might have one in stock. It is pretty svelte in the pocket, has a pointy yet robust tip, and IMO, the rightful competitor of the Spyderco Para 2. I think KSF has some left, and they have a great M4 version if you don't mind spending extra for it.
2. BM Mini Presidio 2. Slightly thicker than the Stryker 2, but still has a decent sized blade per your requirements, comfortable in the hand, and not too heavy. Although I like the original full sized Presidio, the Mini Pres 2 is just the right amount smaller, and feels more substantial than the Mini Presidio 1.
Although thicker, I might mention that C&C had a DP Buck 110 LT, SKBlades should be coming out with a a DP 110 LT with upgraded steel. The Buck DP's are pretty thick out to the tip. C&C also has aluminum 110's (CP and DP) which I think have better fit and finish than the LT. I also really like the C&C Buck 112's (CP and DP; FG or w/o FG), and Buck is supposedly coming out with a 112 LT later this month.
1. BM Stryker 2 - discountinued but you might be able to find a a dealer that might have one in stock. It is pretty svelte in the pocket, has a pointy yet robust tip, and IMO, the rightful competitor of the Spyderco Para 2. I think KSF has some left, and they have a great M4 version if you don't mind spending extra for it.
2. BM Mini Presidio 2. Slightly thicker than the Stryker 2, but still has a decent sized blade per your requirements, comfortable in the hand, and not too heavy. Although I like the original full sized Presidio, the Mini Pres 2 is just the right amount smaller, and feels more substantial than the Mini Presidio 1.
Although thicker, I might mention that C&C had a DP Buck 110 LT, SKBlades should be coming out with a a DP 110 LT with upgraded steel. The Buck DP's are pretty thick out to the tip. C&C also has aluminum 110's (CP and DP) which I think have better fit and finish than the LT. I also really like the C&C Buck 112's (CP and DP; FG or w/o FG), and Buck is supposedly coming out with a 112 LT later this month.
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I know the Spyderco’s look funny, but they are very, very good for using. I’ve not held one yet, but the shaman sounds great for your tasks. It has a compression lock which is extremely strong, while still being easy to operate. Plus the shaman has contoured scales so it should be comfortable to use. My current favorite is the pm2, but it’s a clip point so I don’t think it’d work as well for you. You could also look at the stretch in vg-10. It’s pretty cheap, but an absolute workhouse of a knife, and a drop point.
As far as your mini-grip idea goes, I think it would depend on how big your hands are. I have medium-large hands and I can’t warm up to the grip of the mini-grip—feels about 1/4” short whereas the leek is about the minimum in my hands.
As far as your mini-grip idea goes, I think it would depend on how big your hands are. I have medium-large hands and I can’t warm up to the grip of the mini-grip—feels about 1/4” short whereas the leek is about the minimum in my hands.
Justin Partridge
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- Mar 19, 2017
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I don't mean to throw a wrench in your decision but a "cattle baron" friend of mine carries a Microtech utx 85 with an elmax blade. His experience really convinced me to buy an ultratech. He is very abusive to that thing and it keeps working. He uses it as a pry bar, scraper, and anything else that you can think of. I will not mention some of the things he has told me he uses it for because I know it would make others cringe. It's completely one handed operation and even if it miss fires all you have to do is give it a sharp swing down and it's reset.
If you keep your eye open they can be had around your budget. I do sharpen it for him so he never has to worry about that.
If you keep your eye open they can be had around your budget. I do sharpen it for him so he never has to worry about that.
Horsewright
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Ya'd have to call me a rancher not a farmer but we do raise cattle. Sounds like we're a little dryer than your country too, so conditions are different. Most of our work is horseback:
The wife and I restraining one at a friends branding.
Around here you see either a very small fixed blade (6.5" to 5" oal seem most common), usually carried horizontally/crossdraw or a Case Trapper/Moore Maker etc in a Buckaroo pouch, or both.
Fixed blade horizontal carry:
The trapper and a buckaroo pouch:
It seems like most of your objections to a fixed blade come with the carrying of the fixed blade instead of the fixed blade itself. A little boot sheath like this would work with your rain gear and your overhauls and can be carried dang near anywhere:
The horizontal carry is my personal favorite. Its out of the way whatever you are doing whether riding, groundwork or running em through the squeeze and is always to hand. For us, roping, its a safety feature. I've cut three guys and four horses out of wrecks in the past.
This little guy (5.25" Oal with 2" blade) was my personal edc for about 3-4 years. Never found it wanting. Very comfortable to carry either horizontal or in one of those boot sheaths. Lightweight, robust and sharp, got er done. Doctored many a cow and cut many a calf, opened about a zillion feed sacks and quite a few hay bales too. Wouldn't be my first choice for an elk hunt but we ain't talking about that.
You guys need help restraining them cow legs let me know. Thats what we do:
The wife and I restraining one at a friends branding.
Around here you see either a very small fixed blade (6.5" to 5" oal seem most common), usually carried horizontally/crossdraw or a Case Trapper/Moore Maker etc in a Buckaroo pouch, or both.
Fixed blade horizontal carry:
The trapper and a buckaroo pouch:
It seems like most of your objections to a fixed blade come with the carrying of the fixed blade instead of the fixed blade itself. A little boot sheath like this would work with your rain gear and your overhauls and can be carried dang near anywhere:
The horizontal carry is my personal favorite. Its out of the way whatever you are doing whether riding, groundwork or running em through the squeeze and is always to hand. For us, roping, its a safety feature. I've cut three guys and four horses out of wrecks in the past.
This little guy (5.25" Oal with 2" blade) was my personal edc for about 3-4 years. Never found it wanting. Very comfortable to carry either horizontal or in one of those boot sheaths. Lightweight, robust and sharp, got er done. Doctored many a cow and cut many a calf, opened about a zillion feed sacks and quite a few hay bales too. Wouldn't be my first choice for an elk hunt but we ain't talking about that.
You guys need help restraining them cow legs let me know. Thats what we do:
crufflers
Gold Member
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IMHO one of the great lighter and inexpensive Spyderco's is the Centofante3. Spyderco's are great slicers. Weak tips on a lot of them IMHO, especially if they are hollow ground like my beloved Yojimbo II's.
I love traditionals, but it seems like you would run into a lot of tasks where you will only have one hand free for opening and closing a knife. Spyderco makes some good knives that have a lockback which can be easily used with one hand open and close (Centofante3 is a good example). I index my finger near the end of the grip and drop the blade base onto my nail before closing completely. Compression locks are nice too. I never really liked the Manix2 style locks.
I prefer the Axis for the sliding button type release. Benchmade's detents (or lack of detent) always suck in my experience. Especially when they try to do liner locks. I had a gorgeous 757 Vicar that was smooth as glass and had zero wobble or any defects except it lacked a detent. Really soft lock bar too. That would be a good candidate for whacking the spine to test. It took very little movement to shake out the blade. A decent detent would have made that a great knife IMHO.
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