Knife tip strength

Tip strength is the least important quality of a knife. I'm never going to use any folding knife that way in the real world.

However.
I do enjoy watching someone pushing their knife to the breaking point.

Really appeals to my inner caveman.

"Caveman cool"
 
Funny thing is, i had a leatherman style on my keychain in my pocket.... oh well.
 
ohmyheckinslc said:
That is a fantastic regrind!. I think tip strength is criminally under-rated, myself. But I think I'm one of the few, around here, who feel that way.
Click to expand...

I'm with you on that, man. While I am a firm believer in using the right tool for the job, I like a strong tip that I know will survive my silly antics. A strong tip can also be thin and conducive to good cutting geometry.

I do love a narrow tip for detail work, though...and the way OP fixed his PM2 tip almost looks like new! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
The knife just evolved. You needed a flathead screwdriver - so the blade became a flathead screwdriver, but you grinded it away ;)
 
Not saying I'd do the same, but I appreciate seeing someone not afraid to abuse one of these sprints, and you got a great attitude about it too. [emoji106]
 
Shoot, looks like an opportunity to drop the point a bit on that blade. A minute on the grinder and good as new.

I've had knives returned to me like that after being borrowed.
 
legato1 said:
I was properly wasted, i used more than enough force lol. It was the top strap screw of a smith and wesson 327pd 4 inch.
Click to expand...

Noooooooooooooooooo! :eek:

No worries about the knife. They are tools. Use 'em and fix 'em like you did.

But S&W wheel guns are works of art. It's hard to not scratch up surfaces and mangle screw heads even with perfectly sized screwdrivers. For your punishment and to help you feel the pain when you drink, you must send that 327 to me for safe keeping (and a little love). Please contact me for FFL transfer instructions. :D
 
legato1 said:
I actually loled when i read this. Good deep belly laugh, haven't had one in a while. My s30 para has had quite a few new tips put on it.... funny, most of the times i break them I'm drunk and throwing/abusing it in some way, maybe i should get a busse..... The positive qualities of the spydercos significantly out weight the risk of me breaking a tip. I guess thats why I'm so perplexed when i see that mentioned. I found a good way to avoid hurting the knife point on coconuts when i was in honduras. I just pulled it off the tree and sharpened the coconut like it was a pencil until i exposed the little membrane then popped it, similar to the machete method people use but modified for a small knife.

The 204p is awesome stuff. I thought the s30 was good but the cts takes a very aggressive edge and holds it a very long time. I have not had a hard time sharpening it with just a sharp maker, despite what people say about these hard carbide steels.
Click to expand...

I have a knife that I broke the tip on doing something stupid :rolleyes: .. How exactly do you go about making a new tip? You just used sandpaper to reshape the edge? Do you touch the spine at all?
 
Good job working it out to your satisfaction.

I have broken and/or deformed tips less delicate than that of a Spyderco. Sucked and on some occasions it was entirely my fault. That said, I remain in the camp of preferring a more robust tip on a blade because it is less likely to snap or deform on hidden staples, unseen metals, rock, concrete etc. The fact of the matter is that a knife will be used for more than fine cutting. And sometimes stuff just happens. Sure, it can be reground but I prefer never needing to.

Good news: looks like you now have a more robust tip.
 
adubbz said:
I have a knife that I broke the tip on doing something stupid :rolleyes: .. How exactly do you go about making a new tip? You just used sandpaper to reshape the edge? Do you touch the spine at all?
Click to expand...

Some people bring the edge up to meet the spine and re profile, but i find that to be too much trouble. I just sand the spine down until it meets the original edge. If your lazy you can give it a robust reverse tanto and call it done, but i just take my time and get it lined up with the spine for a more factory appearance and a fine tip. Belt sanders are good for the hogging, but go slow and quench often. I then use higher grit wet dry paper and hand sanding to give the spine a nicer finish so it doesn't have a bunch of low grit scratches from the grinder or sander.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top