Knives by a 17yr old

W

wikraemer96

Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
15
Hey guys, Im new to this forum and just wanted to get your opinion on some of my knives. Im 17 and have done both stock removal and forging of my blades. I've been doing this for 3 years now and have improved greatly. If you could give me some feed back on them that would be much appreciated. Thanks, Will
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that is very impressive at 17!! They look a little rough but like good working knives. But you will probably get better feedback if you can articulate what you are trying to attain - are you going for a certain look, or a certain function?
 
Hi wikraemer96,

wow, these are very cool knives. Awesome! I like the rough look of your knifes a lot.
Some years ago, i did a ttend a weekend course by a blacksmith.. he taught us how to forge a "viking-style" full-steel knife. It was very interesting an fun.

I really appreciate that you do such cool knifes in your early years of 17. Carry on!!

My Respect for your skills, vincent
 
Very nice, especially given your youth. I see a lot of young makers using questionable steel though, as in files and saw blades, and always urge them to develop their skills on known steel. It is a big change when you can start letting you steel fit the design, instead of trying to make a design that will fit in the small footprint of a file. Much less the shortcomings of never knowing the type of steel you are using, thus being able to predict the final results.

What kind of equipment are you using? A propane or coal forge? Type of grinder and the like?
They are a bit 'rough' but I suspect that is a sign of your youth. Always in a hurry to get to the next project... It happens, but they do look like good working blades. If you slow down and pay attention to every small detail, the fit and finish will follow. Make sure every union is dead flat, and the gaps won't even allow a sheet of tissue paper to slide between. What's polished is polished to perfection, and other finishes are uniform a complete.

I often get accused of being overly blunt, or coming off as cold to young makers. That certainly isn't what I am going for here. I find that a maker who is 12-18 years old might not receive the feedback they need as everyone is afraid of hurt feelings. So they just say 'wow, at 1x years old that is great!' and don't make any valuable observations known to the young maker. Instead, it is better to provide honest feedback as you are at an age that will allow you to do great things in this industry. If you continue to develop, you will have a good foothold on this craft right from the start, instead of picking it up in later years like so many of us.

Very nice, and keep up the good work. I am glad to see another young maker venturing into the heat and beat world.

-Eric
 
Overall, they are pretty good. Nicest one is the simple hunter with the toggle lanyard.

Work on the bevels being smoother and flatter. Use a hard block of wood or a piece of metal to back your sandpaper when sanding. This will make the bevels much crisper and flatter.

The handles need some attention. The finishing could be better, as well as shaping. Try to round the front end a bit and not have it just a straight shoulder.

Don't feel it necessary to adorn every knife with file work, dips in the spine, and fancy handle things.
The one I like the most is simple and functional ( Hunter with the toggle). That one could use a bit smoother spine line and a better sanding job, but otherwise it is a totally useful knife.
I would stick with that one style and make ten or twenty more. Each should be a bit better than the last. Look at some of the photos of hunters posted here and other places and see where your differs from ones you like the looks of.
 
I wish I had started learning to make knives when I was 14!

Looks like you're on your way. What tools are you using to establish your flats? I assume you heat treat using a forge? Are you using only salvaged steels?

Tell us a little more about your process.
 
Thanks guys for all the feedback. A lot of my knives are based on hunting/ camping. Most of the knives I make are out of old files (cheap high schooler). I made a forge out of a brake drum and then use a railroad anvil. The first few knives up there I made all by hand anealing the steal then cut them with a hack saw and began filing them. After all the filing I use sandpaper on block from 80-600. Some of them I finish with a buffing wheel. But like LuckyCustomKnives said I was always in a hurry to finish them, so on my earlier ones, they had little things I could've done better. But on the last two knives up there, I tried to spend as much time on them as possisble, getting out every scratch. I plan on fabricating a 2x72 belt grinder and use it for after forging to get the bevel perfect. Then after all the filing and sanding I use my oxy acetylene torch and harden it. After that I get off all the scale and throw it in the oven at 400℉ for 1 hour, 3 times. With my handles I use brass pins and exotic hardwoods like rosewood, purple heart, locus burl. Then I either finish them off with teak oil or tung oil. For some of them I even make a sheath. The sheaths ain't pretty but they work. For most of these knives I've used them so they do have scratches and other defects. But thanks for all ur guys feedback.
 
That will depend on where you are located but Aldo at New Jersey steel baron is always a good soure
 
Willie71 said:
1084.
Click to expand...

Grayzer86 said:
That will depend on where you are located but Aldo at New Jersey steel baron is always a good soure
Click to expand...

Yep. 1084 is a good steel that is readily heat treated how you are doing it.

Read through the stickies and learn how the hardening process works, and more importantly why it works.

Here's how to get better. Draw a simple pattern. Post it here for us to look at and critique. Make it 7-8" long and fit on 1" wide stock. It could be 1.25" stock, but since you're using hand tools, might as well not kill yourself. Once you get a nice simple hunter pattern or similar drawn, buy enough steel to make 6 of them. Buy enough micarta and pins to make six sets of handles. Make one whole knife. Post it here. Get feedback. Rinse and repeat.

Focus on all the details. Never, ever, ever just say "ahhhh, that's close enough." Even if it means waiting to work on it later. I really want to go out and drill a couple holes in a folder I'm working on, but I just realized my press table is out of square, so I'm not doing it until I get the table back square. It sucks, but know I know why the tang on my last folder was ever so slightly out of alignment.

If you focus on and aim for good enough it never will be. If you aim for perfection, it's likely to be good enough. Every single detail adds up to the finished product. Just like it takes a while lot of days to equal a year and you can't skip any of them, so to must you finish every single piece and detail just as if that little detail were your entire masterpiece.

Kind of goofy sounding, but these other guys know what I'm trying to say.
 
I'm actually drawing up designs in class right now! But once I get down I'll throw them up here. Thanks for the help.
 
Where in California? Fill out your profile.

There's an ABS Hammer In at College of the Sequoias in Visalia (here in the Central Valley) somewhere around October I believe. At least one Mastersmith lives here (Mike Vagnino) as does his friend Ray Laconico.

If you're anywhere near, might be something to look into.
 
I'm located in San Luis Obispo. And that would be fun to check out. But here are some ideas I drew up today. They are all about 8" long.
 
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