Knives that deliver a lot of cutting power

My most power cutter......Doh, it's another Mora !!!!:o

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I have one and like it too but I had him make mine a tru scandi and the edge chipped off something awful like 3 times.

The Muskrat Man did great on pine and softwoods but when I tried it on some oak that was dried, nothing extreme just whittling thru maybe a 3/4" branch about half the edge chipped off.

I resharpened the whole thing, still scandi took it back out and same thing

Finally I gave up and put a secondary convex on mine and it worked OK.

I like mine now but I'm lukewarm on the steel he is using for a true scandi edge(unless mine was just poorly tempered)
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Hmmm... I've used mine for several months now, but don't seem to recall using it on really hard woods or knots. It has always held the edge with no rolling or chipping on everything I've used mine for, but it's good to know if there are issues with the tempering... I'll give mine a test on some dried fire cordage I've got lying about and see how it holds up.
 
CWL said:
Hmmm... I've used mine for several months now, but don't seem to recall using it on really hard woods or knots. It has always held the edge with no rolling or chipping on everything I've used mine for, but it's good to know if there are issues with the tempering... I'll give mine a test on some dried fire cordage I've got lying about and see how it holds up.
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Was yours made to be a true scandi, or does it have a convexed edge?

A true scandi, will have a zero edge, so if the steel isn't strong enough or the temper is wrong; you get a chipped or rolled edge...
 
If you like a Scandi - hard to beat the bang for the buck on a Koster.

If you want a thinner double bevel - or have him make you a full convex - Walt has GREAT bang for the buck.

The FT Kephart by BRKT is a GREAT knife - bites deep.

I am also coming to love my BRKT Gunny - a little larger is a Aurora.

TF
 
SpookyPistolero said:
No other knife that I've ever used has the cutting power and efficiency of my Brian Andrews bushcrafter. (Nor anything as comfortable to use). But the scandi grind, 1/8" stock, and constant eliptical edge make it cut like a demon. :thumbup:

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That's a beautiful knife. Looks really handy for a lot of things.
 
+++ on the Brian Andrews bushcrafter. I recently got mine and have been beating the snot out of it. Great hard use bushcrafter. I got the 5/32 O-1 and had him put mesquite scales on it from wood that I provided. Great service.--KV
 
kidwholaughs said:
By cutting power, I am defining it specficly on wood. I guess the simplistic term would be "cutting the most off a chuck of wood with the least effort".

God Bless
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I thought that was what you meant but wasn't sure. I would say any scandi grind because it is specialized just for wood carving. A very thin zero edge works well for wood carving.
Scott
 
Funny you asked. We're getting ready to post a review about the Spyderco Temperance 2. Right out, I will tell you that this one is the sharpest production fixed blade I've ever pulled out of the box. It's not just shaving sharp, the hair just literally slid off my arm when I tried it out. I've got a Fallkniven TK3 that's right up there with it, but the Temperance is a great slicer for a fixed blade.
 
I really like scandi knives but for me convex blades like the JK hiker do a much better job.
 
kvaughn said:
+++ on the Brian Andrews bushcrafter. I recently got mine and have been beating the snot out of it. Great hard use bushcrafter. I got the 5/32 O-1 and had him put mesquite scales on it from wood that I provided. Great service.--KV
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That would be this one:

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That one was a beauty, and I sure didn't want to let it go! Except, it wasn't my wood, so I had to :(

As far as grinds go, the scandi definitely bites quick, and is easy to control. There are a couple tasks it does well that are difficult to do with other grinds.

As much as I love it, I don't consider it the best "all purpose" grind. Convex is great, if done thin enough. Most are too thick they are more for abuse, and just do not cut the way I want them to. I personally think the best all purpose is a comprise where you have a full flat (or high flat) taken down thin on the edge, and have just a slight convex secondary on it. Like this:

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Kind of like the best of both worlds.

Not giving up my scandi though! :D

B
 
Brian, I've got some more of that mesquite wood. Drop me a line or call if you want some. Maybe we can do a swap!--KV
 
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I'd happily take my Roselli Carpenter as my only knife on an extended wilderness expedition, if I could pair it with an ax. I keep my knives for cutting, axes for splitting and chopping.
 
Was yours made to be a true scandi, or does it have a convexed edge?

A true scandi, will have a zero edge, so if the steel isn't strong enough or the temper is wrong; you get a chipped or rolled edge...
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Mine's a true Scandi with flat grinds (why have a puukko with any other grind?).

Been getting home late so haven't had a chance to test for brittleness of the steel, but I will this weekend.

The only 2 times I've been disappointed with bad tempering was on a new Helle Troll and a Barkie. Both had edge chipping from simple wood work.
 
CWL said:
Mine's a true Scandi with flat grinds (why have a puukko with any other grind?).

Been getting home late so haven't had a chance to test for brittleness of the steel, but I will this weekend.

The only 2 times I've been disappointed with bad tempering was on a new Helle Troll and a Barkie. Both had edge chipping from simple wood work.
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Don't blame the edge chipping on bad tempering. Resharpen and try those knives again. This is something I posted about in koyote's Convex Edge thread.
Scott
 
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