Knives that made you go “Hmm, but why?”

Yes. Because why not buy a folder that's not as easy to carry as other folders, is less slicey than some hatchets, will rust on you and has no lock! Perfect and safe bushcraft tool!


And everyone needs a dagger that they can't stab with, folding karambit as that's perfect utility blade.

Then pocket sword, pocket machete and pocket kukri that will neither really fit your pockets and will lack durability of fixed ones but hey - it's big.

Tanto kukri for stabbing car hoods with your kukri... they should make those with scandi grind so I can bushcraft with them.

Scandi bushcraft folder because... everyone needs to whittle and carve at work and nobody bothers to carry a fixed blade into nature...

Jimping entire knife, especially "tactical" ones to ensure they don't penetrate too deep during a stab, and for those with 10 inch long thumbs, makes for amazing push cuts.

And why not holes? High speed low drag! Looks scary to the enemy too. Putting speed holes on blades should be priority for every company...


I am trully lost cause for not understanding this brilliant ingenuity.
If Cold Steel doesn't appeal to you , this's fine ...more for me ! :p:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
However, I’m really intrigued by multi-row bearings, such as on my Shirogorov knives…

I thought Shrios use roller bearings. At least they used to.

I understand they even go to three rows in some models? This is a Neon Zero (Nick Shabazz).

View attachment 2171558

Adding another pic of 3-layer Multi-Row bearings in the Hati R, and in the video link Mr_Niceguy Knife Reviews talks about roller bearings and multi row bearings.

Screen Shot 2023-05-01 at 7.11.16 PM.png

 
I looked up the Besh Wedge and I hate it. Especially the $310 Case Besh Wedge that actually looked like a pretty functional and decent dagger, if it were not geometrically squirrely and cost an appropriate amount for the uncomplicated design and low-cost handle material/low grade steel. $70 maybe. And then I'd still have to justify buying a dagger that has no legitimate uses.
Think you nailed it!
 
I mean, "outdoors folders" themselves are making me ask "Wait, but why?"

As if 9€ Mora or 15€ Mora Robust wouldn't do it better than a folder, and without mentioned issues...

And I doubt that concealment is a problem in the wild...
Yea, I get it. My logic was as compact knife as possible for hiking and for places like national parks where you are not allowed to touch the nature other than in resting spots.
 
I have been looking for outdoors folder with low budget and CS Finn Wolf has been in my cart many times but I can’t get over who’s brilliant idea was it to put thumb stud in the middle of the blade that prevents sharpening and whittling.

Grind 'em off and make it a two-hand knife. Not like you'll be in a great hurry to open it.
 
Grind 'em off and make it a two-hand knife. Not like you'll be in a great hurry to open it.
You can actually just unscrew them but it end ups looking stupid and I kind of just want to protest the design flaw anyway.
 
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Haha, I understand you. But that is what made the old Cold Steel so great. Lynne Thompson did not follow conventional logic. Instead, he took things to extremes... because he could. I applaud him for going far beyond where other knife companies dare venture.
Just want to add, these huge folders are only possible because of the tri-ad lock's strength, which CS owns the patent to. I'm glad they pushed the envelope with designs like the XL knives.
The entirety of the old Cold Steel is one big “Why?”

And the answer is “Because we can.”

Of course, that was back in the days when we still had Mr. Thompson, Mr. Demko, and Mr. Wallace.
 
Finger choils on fixed blades are not my favourite and will prevent me from buying it.
Large outdoor knives with a hollow grind - they get stuck easily and are not as tough as flat or saber grind knives.

Overly complicated locking mechanisms that depend on too many moving parts - the more parts there are, the higher the chance that one will will fail, rendering the lock useless.
 
Finger choils on fixed blades are not my favourite and will prevent me from buying it.
Large outdoor knives with a hollow grind - they get stuck easily and are not as tough as flat or saber grind knives.

Overly complicated locking mechanisms that depend on too many moving parts - the more parts there are, the higher the chance that one will will fail, rendering the lock useless.
This one is interesting to me. Knives with finger guards often had/have sizable finger choils to be able to get closer to the blade for precision work or even carving.

All hollow grinds are not created equal. Looking at knives like Bucks or Randalls, both of which have hollow grinds, they seem to have worked just fine for decades. One reason to go with a hollow over a flat sabre is if you have a narrow blade (like in a hunting knife). A hollow grind will allow to a narrow blade to to slice better. Especially with our modern steels I dont see any problems with hollow grinds, if well done they will be plenty rugged. A chopping focused knife will obviously be flat or better yet convex ground.
 
This one is interesting to me. Knives with finger guards often had/have sizable finger choils to be able to get closer to the blade for precision work or even carving.

All hollow grinds are not created equal. Looking at knives like Bucks or Randalls, both of which have hollow grinds, they seem to have worked just fine for decades. One reason to go with a hollow over a flat sabre is if you have a narrow blade (like in a hunting knife). A hollow grind will allow to a narrow blade to to slice better. Especially with our modern steels I dont see any problems with hollow grinds, if well done they will be plenty rugged. A chopping focused knife will obviously be flat or better yet convex ground.

Not a fan of finger choils, as I do like to keep my fingers on the handle. My Beckers and my Teräväs are desiged that way and they work good enough for me. If I cut rope, or a fabric or cut down large boxes, the material gets snagged in the choil and I need to reposition it.

Hollow grind knives are not a bad thing in general, I just don't like them on large knives that are predominantly used for whittling or woodwork, where I prefer a wegde-like geometry.
 
A dislike for hollow grinds on big blades is understandable. I feel for all purpose blades up to 6" or so, especially on narrow blades (about 1"-1 1/4" tall) they have their place.
Personally I love the way certain choils look, gives a blade a lot of character in some cases. I havent found them irritating. The only choils I find annoying are those too small to actually use as a finger choil (but bigger then a sharping choil). I feel the same way about subtle recurves on blades.
 
I use a hawkbill a lot for farm chores. Since a karambit is sort of an exaggerated hawkbill, I would like to try one. I've been looking for a serrated karambit. Cold Steel has a couple hawkbills with rings that they call karambits, but I don't think they deserve the name. But what really made me WTF is the "Bastinelli Dark Stonewashed Serrated Folding Black Mako Karambit," which has more of a Persian blade.

Friend, invest in a Spyderco Civilian without fear. I have one and I say, it's excellent. The sharpest beak I've ever seen.

 
Yes. Because why not buy a folder that's not as easy to carry as other folders, is less slicey than some hatchets, will rust on you and has no lock! Perfect and safe bushcraft tool!


And everyone needs a dagger that they can't stab with, folding karambit as that's perfect utility blade.

Then pocket sword, pocket machete and pocket kukri that will neither really fit your pockets and will lack durability of fixed ones but hey - it's big.

Tanto kukri for stabbing car hoods with your kukri... they should make those with scandi grind so I can bushcraft with them.

Scandi bushcraft folder because... everyone needs to whittle and carve at work and nobody bothers to carry a fixed blade into nature...

Jimping entire knife, especially "tactical" ones to ensure they don't penetrate too deep during a stab, and for those with 10 inch long thumbs, makes for amazing push cuts.

And why not holes? High speed low drag! Looks scary to the enemy too. Putting speed holes on blades should be priority for every company...


I am trully lost cause for not understanding this brilliant ingenuity.
I don’t say this to a lot of people but…you I like!
 
A dislike for hollow grinds on big blades is understandable. I feel for all purpose blades up to 6" or so, especially on narrow blades (about 1"-1 1/4" tall) they have their place.
Personally I love the way certain choils look, gives a blade a lot of character in some cases. I havent found them irritating. The only choils I find annoying are those too small to actually use as a finger choil (but bigger then a sharping choil). I feel the same way about subtle recurves on blades.
I’m not much of a big blade guy, but what’s the ideal grind for a big knaaaf? Saber? Full flat?

Yeah, I prefer small sharpening choils all the way for a professional look. I dislike poorly executed finger choils.
 
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