knives with "great geometry", and not so great geometry

[Ankerson]

Some of the locals here that possess a lot of knife knowledge talk occasionally about "geometry" in relation to the cutting ability of the knife.
I think I may know what they- you- are talking about, but Im not quite sure.

Please list knives that have good/great geometry to you, and knives that have not-so-good geometry.

If a knife has good geometry, does it mean that it has a delicate blade, or are there some thick .25 inch knives that have good geometry?

Thanks for your considerations,

John

The best would be a thin Flat ground around .010" or less behind the edge at 5 degrees per side ( 10 degrees inclusive) in a steel at high hardness with the compression strength that can take it.

 

[Insipid Moniker]

Basically, geometry is about reducing friction to facilitate cutting while maintaining impact resistance. A tough, obtuse convex grind can work wonders on a chopper, but would be wildly out of place on a small folder. Also, you have to take the capabilities of the steel used into account. M390 or S90V will take a very thin edge and hold it without damage, but if you try the same trick with 420HC you'll find the edge rolling or chipping very easily.

 

[Twindog]

i find my ZT 560 perfect for me, not too thin but more than thick enough for EDC, a good reinforced tip and a good blade steel make it perfect imo.

I like the 0560, but the one thing I most dislike about the 0560 is the blade geometry. The ergos and materials and design elements are great. But for EDC, I like a thinner blade with a thin, pointy point, like the Military. The 0560 has a thick point, which, coupled with a fat belly and a fat edge, can make it awkward for everyday tasks, cush as opening mail with tightly sealed flaps.

The Military has great blade geometry for everything but abuse. The blade is thinner stock than the 0560 and has a full flat grind. Even with the edges on both knives set at 30 degrees, the Military edge shoulders and blade behind the edge are much thinner, making it cut much better. The point is very pointy for detail work and the belly is modest and long.

Another knife with good blade geometry is the Benchmade Onslaught. The blade is huge, but thin and the edge shoulders are also very thin. It's a big, wide blade that cuts extremely well.

The Spyderco Gayle Bradley blade has excellent geometry, with a thin edge leading a hollow grind blade. The Sebenza is another beautiful example of blade geometry, with a very thin edge leading a hollow grind blade.

For EDC, I like a thin edge in a steel that can hold a 30-degree inclusive edge without damage. I like a pointy point for detail work and I like a modest belly.

If I need a heavier EDC, I carry the Rukus, which is stouter and has a saber grind.

 

[jiggybaw]

great geometry:Victorinox paring knife,any SAK big or small,opinel -thin blade flat grind
not so great:buck 110,old endura,gerber fast draw-thick blade hollow or saber grind
shit geometry:usmc ka-bar and other big relativly narrow , thick saber or hollow ground blades
Howewer they are all great knives.

 

[72jroberts]

Guys
Hey I read every single reply and I really appreciate it. Thanks for the theory and also the examples of actual knives that work, and don't work.
John

 

[res1cue]

Guys
Hey I read every single reply and I really appreciate it. Thanks for the theory and also the examples of actual knives that work, and don't work.
John

one more thought: to me a knife has great geometry, when steel/grind/HT/edge/handle/clip and all other features line up towards a single objective. It can be an axe, a bowie, a thin slicer, a heavy duty folder, or any other purpose, but if you have a knife where all these features seem geared towards different objectives, then you have a poor knife no matter what brand is placed on it.