Kukri turning in the hand

[Matt_Bailey]

Just got the "Magnum Kukri" from Cold Steel. I really like it, but I do notice it does want to turn in the hand more than a more typical blade shape when you strike something, particularly a clump of light brush as opposed to a solid branch. Is there a "technique" to using it that differs from say a regular machete? Maybe some sports tape on the handle?

 

[bladerique]

Just got the "Magnum Kukri" from Cold Steel. I really like it, but I do notice it does want to turn in the hand more than a more typical blade shape when you strike something, particularly a clump of light brush as opposed to a solid branch. Is there a "technique" to using it that differs from say a regular machete? Maybe some sports tape on the handle?

Do you mean the blade wants to angle down when swinging sideways? Put on a glove and try to find it's balance point like a normal knife. You'll know why a glove is needed when it turns into your finger.

 

[ron_m80]

that kukri profile has a sweet spot for chopping. Else the profile works agaisnt you on impact in some cases, coupled with the low overall mass of the magnum kukri you have your problem spelled out right there.

 

[Matt_Bailey]

Nah, I mean it wants to twist in the hand.

 

[ron_m80]

Nah, I mean it wants to twist in the hand.

Of course the simple answer could still be that the blade is duller than it should be.

 

[R.Russell]

Yeah, I know what you mean Matt. Watch those glancing shots! I find I like to use less of an angle than you would use with say, a machete, and make em count. Its more of a chopper than a light clearing "sweeper".

 

[Boberama]

I have a British Kukri and haven't noticed that problem.

The worst thing about mine is that the pommel has very pointy metal edges that dig into your hands if you swing it too hard. I guess I have a bad grip on it.

 

[Arakiel]

It's a blade shape that needs practice to use safely and effectively. The forward cutting edge will want to "go somewhere" (ie sideways) when the remainder of the forward momentum is transfered to the grip. It's a matter of simple leverage. A technique that works to counter this tendency is to let your wrist drift back slightly and to then drop your forearm, allowing the swell of the blade to trail in the downward chopping stroke. The motion is similar to throwing a baseball, except that your wrist does not follow through, only the blade does...in a controlled manner of course!
One other tip: lighten your grip and stroke, and wear a lanyard.
Practice practice practice!

 

[Karda]

This may help you. There is a definate technique to using a khukuri:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...opping-technique-threads?highlight=sharpening

Do not use a lanyard. The last thing you want if you lose your grip on the khuk during chopping is a sharp curved piece of metal swinging at you from your wrist. Without the lanyard you at least have some chance of tossing it or dancing out of harms way.

 

[Matt_Bailey]

A good wrapping of sports tape bulked up the size of the handle, fixed the twist and made it 110% more pleasant to use.

 

[shortwinger]

Many times that twisting comes from striking at too much of an angle and swinging too hard. With the kukri shape you do not need as much of an angle to get the job done and you should not swing for the fence. Use only about 40-50% of your strength with each chop and use only a slight angle. Also, be sure to check out the material that Karda provided above and find the kukris sweet spot. That is where you should be striking and it is where the blade is at its most efficient, hardest and produces the least amount of vibration.

Also understand that what you have is a kukri machete, not a kukri. A machete is designed to cut foliage where a kukri is meant to cut bigger harder material such as wood. You "can" cut wood with a machete and you "can" cut vines with a kukri but it gets unsafe and less efficient. You also run the risk of injury when you use each in jobs they are not designed for. Many many people break machetes batoning wood and using them to do jobs they were not intended to do. This is why one costs $25 and the other costs $200.

 

[Arakiel]

Many times that twisting comes from striking at too much of an angle and swinging too hard. With the kukri shape you do not need as much of an angle to get the job done and you should not swing for the fence. Use only about 40-50% of your strength with each chop and use only a slight angle. Also, be sure to check out the material that Karda provided above and find the kukris sweet spot. That is where you should be striking and it is where the blade is at its most efficient, hardest and produces the least amount of vibration.

Also understand that what you have is a kukri machete, not a kukri. A machete is designed to cut foliage where a kukri is meant to cut bigger harder material such as wood. You "can" cut wood with a machete and you "can" cut vines with a kukri but it gets unsafe and less efficient. You also run the risk of injury when you use each in jobs they are not designed for. Many many people break machetes batoning wood and using them to do jobs they were not intended to do. This is why one costs $25 and the other costs $200.

Agreed. The Magnum is a recurve machete. Regular kukri rules do not apply. Some kukri skills translate but it's actually a whole different beast.