I agree that just calling the blade "weird looking", without any sort of actual "critique" to go along with the comment, could come off as more of an insult, even if that wasn't your intent. I don't have anything against you at all Lorien, you seem to be a genuinly nice guy from what I've read over the years on the forum, so please don't take this as an attack towards you in any way. :thumbup:
I'm just saying I can understand him gettin upset after putting so much work and time into this knife only to have it called "weird", especially since he's a relatively newer maker.
ETA: Just wanted to add that as far as any of the proceding comments go, I have no comment.

------------
Anyway, I really like the boldness of the hamon you achieved on this blade, looks very cool! OAL it turned out very nicely IMHO.
I think that when most people say they have a difficult time achieving hamon with 1084, they're probably so used to working with shallow hardening steels (1095, W2 etc.) where only a very thin layer of clay (~1/16" max) and maybe some very small ashi lines can go a long way to get a very active hamon, while only sort of influencing it's outcome.
Just as you show in you WIP picture where the blade is all clayed up, the "trick" that I've learned for getting a bold hamon with 1084 is to do just that, apply a pretty thick layer of clay in a wavy line, (which will heavily influence the shape of the hamon) as well as to quench the blade as soon as the edge comes up to critial, without soaking the entire blade long enough for the mass of the clay and spine to come up to equal temp. I kind of think 1084 hamon(s) as being more of a "wavy quench line" than a hamon, not because all hamon(s) are supposed to have a lot of wild activity, but since that's how 1084 seems to act due to the extra bit of manganese, causing it to be a bit more deep hardening, if that even makes sense. lol
Thanks for sharing man.
~Paul
My YT Channel
Lsubslimed
...
(It's been quite a while since I've posted any new vids)