KYDEX AND THE COLD
- Thread starter Gunner
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 7, 1999
- Messages
- 514
I wouldn't think that the cold could pose a problem to a thermoplastic material. If anything the kydex will probably stiffen just a bit and hold the knife tighter than normal.
Rob Simonich
Big Bear
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 2,294
I had a Kydex sheath fail when it was about 40 below. I was horseback and when I got off the horse the bending of my body cracked the belt loop. One could remedy this with a nylon belt loop though..........
------------------
www.simonichknives.com
------------------
www.simonichknives.com
- Joined
- Feb 18, 1999
- Messages
- 742
similar experience to mr. simonich. i wear kydex body armor when fighting with rattan batons. my armor had been in the back of the pickup on the highway when it was about 10 deg. outside, i don't know what that makes the windchill. i didn't let it warm up and put it on about 5 min. after i arrived at my destination. after getting hit twice it cracked. i was told by one of my fellow fighters that if i had worn it for about 15-20 min. my body heat would take it out of the danger zone. so cold probably wouldn't affect an IWB sheath, but an exposed belt sheath could get cold enough. but i guess it has to be *really* cold
Rob G.
Rob G.
BOB G
FYI and having nothing to do with Kydex per se, Wind chill has no effect on anything that is not producing heat IE a live animal etc.
If you were to heat a piece of iron in the oven to say 400 Deg. and set it out at -10 it would cool eventually to -10, If there was a 50 mph wing blowing over the piece of iron it would also cool to -10. It would cool faster, than in still air, but it cannot get any colder than air temp.
MNH
FYI and having nothing to do with Kydex per se, Wind chill has no effect on anything that is not producing heat IE a live animal etc.
If you were to heat a piece of iron in the oven to say 400 Deg. and set it out at -10 it would cool eventually to -10, If there was a 50 mph wing blowing over the piece of iron it would also cool to -10. It would cool faster, than in still air, but it cannot get any colder than air temp.
MNH
- Joined
- Jul 9, 1999
- Messages
- 3,316
I took one of my Kydex sheaths and put it in the freezer last night. This morning I took it out set it on the counter and whacked the hell out of it with a ball pein hammer several times. No damage whatsoever. Bent it hard as I could. No damage. I hope this helps.
------------------
knowledge ROCKS! B.S. talks & ignorance walks
------------------
knowledge ROCKS! B.S. talks & ignorance walks
MNH Hi,1st timer (be gentle) re.wind chill. have found evoporation works very well when inanamate object is wet.water in canvas bag strapped on front of tank or landrover provided us cool drinks while operating in Australian desert.not that you are going to wrap kydex in cotton etc. so does digging 6inch deep trench, putting in beer cans,covering with sand, pouring over petrol & lighting up.Kiwi & Aussie soldiers stuck in dessert, always find a way.I know more, useless info . full of it.cheers W what cools quicker in a deep freeze, boiling water or room temp. water ? yep your wrong, boiling water.read it somewere.full of it. WM
we will all take note that tim wenger of blade tech is no longer using kydex..... enough said....they have something else that is supposed to be way better.
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
Kiwi,
Wait a minute here, This beer can in the trench trick is something I need to know more about. This sounds like a very useful piece of information. Do I need to carry my own sand bag around with me or will dirt do? I need to know or I will end up wasting good beer experimenting.
Wind chill. . . There are a number of ways that heat is transferred into the atmosphere, convection, conduction, evaporation and several others which can work separately or in combination. It has been a little over 20 years sense I had to really think about this and I do not have any reference material here.
Evaporation as I recall is a very different mechanism, and works differently in hot Vs. cold. evaporation requires energy to provide the power for the transfer, heat is the energy source that provides the power. (I think). It would be somewhat like pouring water on a hot engine block. The water turns to steam, the heat from the engine block provides the power, and gas used up, leaving the engine cool. This may be semi-related to the old gas powered refrigerators (and perhaps your beer in the trench trick!)
Any way, when the water is gone the canvas does not remain cool. Wind chill results from an object which is warmer than air temp. heating the air surrounding it. the warmer air will dissipate, requiring the object to provide more heat to reheat the surrounding air. When the air is moving the object must transfer heat faster, therefore cooling itself faster. When the object reaches the same temp. as the air, the transfer stops. There is no longer any power source to provide the needed energy.
A person exposed to wind chill is a slightly different proposition, as the person has a built in heat source, and will attempt to produce more heat to replace the heat that is lost. The wind requires that the person produce heat at a faster rate to replace the heat that is being lost. The question that the "wind chill factor" attempts to answer, is what temperature would it have to be (with no wind) to cause body to lose heat at the current rate.
We are pretty badly off topic here. If this thread gets lost, or we get asked to go elsewhere, please feel free to email me (esp. with the beer in the trench trick) although I think there may be enough interest in the beer to gain us a little forbearance here.
Wait a minute here, This beer can in the trench trick is something I need to know more about. This sounds like a very useful piece of information. Do I need to carry my own sand bag around with me or will dirt do? I need to know or I will end up wasting good beer experimenting.
Wind chill. . . There are a number of ways that heat is transferred into the atmosphere, convection, conduction, evaporation and several others which can work separately or in combination. It has been a little over 20 years sense I had to really think about this and I do not have any reference material here.
Evaporation as I recall is a very different mechanism, and works differently in hot Vs. cold. evaporation requires energy to provide the power for the transfer, heat is the energy source that provides the power. (I think). It would be somewhat like pouring water on a hot engine block. The water turns to steam, the heat from the engine block provides the power, and gas used up, leaving the engine cool. This may be semi-related to the old gas powered refrigerators (and perhaps your beer in the trench trick!)
Any way, when the water is gone the canvas does not remain cool. Wind chill results from an object which is warmer than air temp. heating the air surrounding it. the warmer air will dissipate, requiring the object to provide more heat to reheat the surrounding air. When the air is moving the object must transfer heat faster, therefore cooling itself faster. When the object reaches the same temp. as the air, the transfer stops. There is no longer any power source to provide the needed energy.
A person exposed to wind chill is a slightly different proposition, as the person has a built in heat source, and will attempt to produce more heat to replace the heat that is lost. The wind requires that the person produce heat at a faster rate to replace the heat that is being lost. The question that the "wind chill factor" attempts to answer, is what temperature would it have to be (with no wind) to cause body to lose heat at the current rate.
We are pretty badly off topic here. If this thread gets lost, or we get asked to go elsewhere, please feel free to email me (esp. with the beer in the trench trick) although I think there may be enough interest in the beer to gain us a little forbearance here.
Tom,
Although Concealex absolutely has the upper hand on patterned plastics for holsters and knives. Remember that Kleerdex could really careless about the knife and shooting industry.
Tims use of Concealex surely has more to do with his association with Victor and pricing than the supposed properties of the material.
I am sure when we start seeing Concealex child car seats, airplane luggage compartments, car dash boards, and counter top laminates Kleerdex will begin to worry about the properties of Kydex v. Concealex. I'm sure it will make Victor happy also!
------------------
>)-RadarMan-(<
[This message has been edited by RadarMan (edited 17 July 1999).]
I gotta ask, have you seen any data that has shown that any other "kydex like" material is better than any other, as in this example of freezing the material? Concealex may or may not be "better" than kydex but you would be hard pressed to find differences in these materials like you would others, as say, leather grades.
Although Concealex absolutely has the upper hand on patterned plastics for holsters and knives. Remember that Kleerdex could really careless about the knife and shooting industry.
Tims use of Concealex surely has more to do with his association with Victor and pricing than the supposed properties of the material.
I am sure when we start seeing Concealex child car seats, airplane luggage compartments, car dash boards, and counter top laminates Kleerdex will begin to worry about the properties of Kydex v. Concealex. I'm sure it will make Victor happy also!
------------------
>)-RadarMan-(<
[This message has been edited by RadarMan (edited 17 July 1999).]
no...you are right....dont know the first thing about it...but there must be a very good reason for tim to switch...as i know he is very concerned about his product and his company.....thats why i said what i said... dont know nuttin really.... post script...a lot of my LE buddies at the police academy here in hawaii have been telling me bad stories about kydex....and no...it doesnt freeze here....the coldest ive ever seen it on this island is about 52....and man..it was cold...maybe the kydex did freeze that nite...
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 17 July 1999).]
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 17 July 1999).]
HI MNH, gosh you really do know your stuff.as a active outdoors person I know enough to keep alive & the beers cool-dirt will work needs yo be friable (crumbly) we used same system for meat safe on farm as kids.(use water not petrol !) water bags worked as they allowed water to soak thru canvas to evoporate.something to think about for y2k. no power,low maintance. enjoyed reply. have a great kydex sheath by Scott Handrix for trail master. nice job great design.(I drink Scotch,Scott) W.
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 115
Misque,
Most freezers (especially household freezers only get to about 10 deg F.
Rob,
I suspect kydex/concealex with a ballistic nylon webbing belt loop would work just fine.
Spencer
Most freezers (especially household freezers only get to about 10 deg F.
Rob,
I suspect kydex/concealex with a ballistic nylon webbing belt loop would work just fine.
Spencer
Hi All,
We've been having it quite warm here in Minnesota during the last few winters. It hardly ever gets to -40F any more! But I've had the Kydex crack on me at -20F. I've also given up on using ATS-34 in the winter....it chips too easy when it gets cool out.
Happy Trails,
Dan
We've been having it quite warm here in Minnesota during the last few winters. It hardly ever gets to -40F any more! But I've had the Kydex crack on me at -20F. I've also given up on using ATS-34 in the winter....it chips too easy when it gets cool out.
Happy Trails,
Dan