Kydex, lined with leather

I tried this out a few months ago, I molded a two piece Kydex holster for a 1911 and then took, I believe it was 4-5oz leather, wet formed it to the kydex (this was time consuming and hard on the fingers). I then contact glued it in place. Burnished the edges where the leather and kydex met, which actually worked rather well. Unfortunately I never fitted a belt loop to it but the draw of the gun was smooth as butter and needed no retention device. It had the feel of a leather holster with the retention of kydex. I need to get back at it and complete one. It was an experiment that I think worked out well. I considered it for sheaths, but found it to be a little thick for anything other than a large field knife. I am working on a knife now that will have a portion of kydex lined leather for retention, we'll see how that turns out. My advice would be to use the thinnest kydex and thin leather because they stack up pretty quick. I say continue mission, the draw of leather with the retention of kydex is the best of both worlds.
 
I know nothing about sheaths and such.... Still, I am going to throw this out there. Pigskin can be really thin and durable.
 
zzyzzogeton said:
My issue with kydex sheaths has not been scratches on blades (scratches happen from general use anyway), but premature dulling of the cutting edge from scraping/rubbing on the kydex when being drawn or sheathed. I don't like to have to sharpen a knife more often than necessary.
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One thing about why I started this thread, I want the leather, genuine or synthetic, on the inside and kydex on the outside
 
I would love kydex sheath with leather covering the exterior.

I would get someone a knife with leather lining the inside if I hated them and wanted their knife to turn into a rustbucket when they need it most.
 
Kwon Kwang said:
I would love kydex sheath with leather covering the exterior.

I would get someone a knife with leather lining the inside if I hated them and wanted their knife to turn into a rustbucket when they need it most.
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There are so many leather lined gun holsters and knife sheaths out there. If you know something we dont please elaborate.

Been working leather most of my life and never seen a knife turn into a "rustbucket"
 
Hey Daniel, I have question on your process of lining and covering your kydex sheaths, I noticed that you said the leather and the lining is glued on the Kydex before the pattern is cut out. What tool are you using to cut out the pattern in the sheath? And at what time of the process are you stitching the sheath and pressing the kydex to form to the blade? Are you pressing the kydex after you have cut out the pattern and glued and stitched the kydex, leather and felt together?

Tanner
 
leatherman said:
There are so many leather lined gun holsters and knife sheaths out there. If you know something we dont please elaborate.

Been working leather most of my life and never seen a knife turn into a "rustbucket"
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To me, there is something insidious about a sheath which appears to not retain moisture on the outside, but in fact does on the inside.
 
All porous materials will retain moisture for a time, and all non porous materials will hold moisture against another non porous object. Proper care and maintenance is key to keeping your ferrous metals clean and free of oxidation.

To cover all your bases, never store a knife in its sheath, no matter the material if there is a chance of condensation.

I do store my knives in their sheaths, even the high carbon models, but only if I made that sheath. I know my materials. I dont have rusty knives, and one is a leather lined kydex sheath. Used in quite a few campsites, and always re-sheathed after use. I dont have a rusty knife. Its going on its seventh year in that sheath. I constantly test my materials, and to the risk of my tools, but so far so good as I dont skimp. Use top grade materials and not get burned.
 
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