Kydex-- Which knives work best with it?

[Andrew Lynch]

Well, I've been making kydex sheaths for a while now and have come to appreciate how different knives work differently with kydex sheaths. Each design and to a certain degree each set of materials work differently with kydex. Some designs are hard to execute with kydex, some are easy, some just need a special technique, etc.

I have found advantages and disadvantages in several different types of knives. For example, knives with small guards and micarta slabs are great to make kydex for! The knife snaps in with a nice click and the micarta will not be at all damaged by the kydex. On the other had, soft rubber handles are not as easy. If one is not careful, the kydex can rub the rubber away a bit, or damage it somehow. Everything works differently.

So, for you kydex makers out there, what's your favorite and least favorite type (design and materials) of knife to make kydex for?

 

[Normark]

Hey Andrew....

some good questions, you've got..
It looks as though you are learning what being a sheath maker is all about....

My least favorit knives..

Short stubby blades, and blades and guards with sharp edges...

God, that has to be the absolute worst. I've actually sent knives back unfinished because they had such sharp edges....

My favorite knives are 5-6" straight spined blades, rounded or softened edges, and plunge lines and a decent rounded guard...

I've worked on knives Andrew that would make you go Screaming into the night... No matter what you do,, they won't fit...

you want a little hint on rubber handled knives ?

go get yourself a can of Snap silicone spray. spray a little on your finger,,shake off excess and lightly wipe the mouth of the sheath, with your finger....This will make a sheath that rubs the rubber in and out, go in smooth and fit like a glove...

Be VERY CAREFUL and don't use too much, as it can actually make the sheath feel loose and the knife could slip right out....This is ONLY used in cases of Extreme problems..

As far as favorite materials go.. G10 Micarta are my favorite hands down,, although Kraton hasn't given me too much of a problem...

you just gotta know how to handle it...

Like you said,, every knife is different, and every knife has their own techniques in sheathing..
I keep a book with every model I do....

Each model has specs that are followed for that particular knife.
size of material needed, quirks of the knife.. Notes on things to do, not to do.. This comes in handy, so when an order comes in,, you don't have to measure things and try to remember every little detail about the particular blade..

for instance,, when I get an order for a Busse Paul's Hatchet. I know the size AND (very important) thickness of plastic to use.

Eyelet placement and measurements, and odd qualities or quirks the knife has. what type of belt loop is standard for that knife, and any fine tune fitting tips that go along with it... The Pauls Hatchet has a unique shape and requires several different tunings in different areas..

Then Bingo,, you've got consistency with the prototype. there again is another advantage,going back and looking at the prototype...

If your sheaths evolve over time and get better, remember to disgard your old prototype and replace it with a new one. Several of my sheaths,, such as my Chris reeve series sheaths have evolved to I think 3rd or 4th Gen sheaths.. Basically this means they have had 3-4 Major changes...

These are some of the Very first sheaths I ever made(circa 1999). Matter of fact, this was one of the only Newer knives i owned at the time. A Gerber Pro guide. (Still have it,expect its in the shop for handle upgrade) See the bottom one in OD.. That is a 2nd Gen sheath. See the difference ???

I also keep a fairly large library of sheath pictures.. I have yours as well as every other synthetic sheaths I've ever seen on the net. I use these as reference material.Comes in handy some times...

Anyway,, I think I've wandered enough Off Topic for one day..

Hope that helps...

ttyle

Eric...

 

[Andrew Lynch]

Originally posted by Normark
God, that has to be the absolute worst. I've actually sent knives back unfinished because they had such sharp edges....

I hear you I've softened some edges just to make them work with kydex better.

Originally posted by Normark
I know the size AND (very important) thickness of plastic to use.

So, how many thicknesses of concealex do you use? I had no idea you actually assigned different thicknesses to different knives


Thanks a lot for all that information! I hadn't thought much about taking notes on specific knives. At this point I am starting over on each knife

I haven't built up the courage to tackle a PH yet......your sheaths for it look fantastic though.

Again, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge!

 

[Normark]

Hey Andrew....

Ahhh FRIG,, one Big Quote..
Sorry bout that...

Originally posted by Andrew Lynch
I hear you I've softened some edges just to make them work with kydex better.

Ahhh you've found this out as well Eh..


So, how many thicknesses of concealex do you use? I had no idea you actually assigned different thicknesses to different knives

I use 60-80-93-125

all for different things.... Absolutely you have to assign different guages for different blades... Some knives need the springiness of 60 weight, others need to be a little more heavy...

Because of the shape of the PH and the retention it needs, 90 is the way to go....


Thanks a lot for all that information! I hadn't thought much about taking notes on specific knives. At this point I am starting over on each knife


Not a problem...
For sure take notes.. I've got far too many knives to remember each one's quirks off by hard... To remain consistent,, its the only way to go..

I haven't built up the courage to tackle a PH yet......your sheaths for it look fantastic though.

Try it,, you'll find it an intereting challenge...
It took me about 6-7 trys to get it to that stage...

Again, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge!

No problem Andrew..Have fun..

Eric..

 

[Steven Roos]

Wood, horn, bone, and other natural materials seem to look much better with leather. Synthetics and composites, like G10, micarta, etc, look great with kydex though!

I have noticed in Eric's (Normark) work, the smoother the handle, the better fit of the knife.

 

[rlinger]

Normark,

That is some exceptional work you have displayed for us. My hat is off to that kind of craftsmanship.

Roger