All I'm after is some basic geometry measurements. Nothing too complicated. At what angle did you resharpen the chipped knife? I can go as low as 12* per side with my favorites, and then the issue is the occasional trip through the dishwasher, not the cutting. What is the spine thickness? How about the thickness behind the edge bevel? When new, would the blades shave hair, whittle hair, push cut paper, slice toilet paper, etc?
I'm not completely sure, but from my ceramics (material science, not pottery) classes years ago, I seem to remember 100% density being practically impossible for ceramics. The particle/powder metals can be compacted and fired (sintered) to 100% density, but the times involved for ceramics made it unviable for most commercial use. The times were on the order of days or weeks at temperatures above 2400* F. This was for aluminum oxide, and I realize that zirconium oxide may be faster, but, considering the cheapness of Al2O3, I'm guessing part of the cost of ZrO is the high temp and long time required for processing. This issue of porosity in ceramics is why I doubt the edge can be sharper than steel. Its like having carbide tearout, but the carbides are removed for you when the steel is made, so the dips and voids show up when the edge is formed. Possible a good slicing edge though.
The new Kyocera models I was looking at on Youtube have the corners and tips rounded for durabilities sake I suppose. If the tips of all my kitchen knives had a 1/4" radius, I wouldnt have to worry about broken tips. There are some drop tests on youtube that show the knives wont break or shatter when they are dropped from counter or table height. However, try that test when the edge has a chip in it and the story may be different.