kootenay joe
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- Joined
- Jan 30, 2015
- Messages
- 1,566
Glenn, with knives in hand, i cannot see differences in the bone or bolsters. Comparing milled to non-milled knives: the bone slabs are of equal thickness and the depths of the grooves on the bolsters is the same. Also the handle pins protrude equal amounts and the 'doming' appears the same, i.e. no flatting of tops of domed pins.
Using a 9x loupe i cannot see anything to indicate a welded blade.
I agree with Hal's observations: the swage starts slightly more distally on the Bean knife and the long pull extends to the tang on the milled knife but stops 2mm short of tang on the Bean.
It's a drawn swage done by hand by the cutler. Surely difference of 1-2mm is within the range of normal variation ? Same for the long pull.
Regarding the swage, pull and blade tip, i would like to hear from a cutler with production knife experience as to how much knife to knife variation occurs.
And, has there ever been a documented case of a faked 2OT presented in this forum or elsewhere that you know of ?
It would be great to see another L.L. Bean 2OT for comparison. It it were to have milled liners then that would all but prove mine to be a re-work.
thanks, kj
Using a 9x loupe i cannot see anything to indicate a welded blade.
I agree with Hal's observations: the swage starts slightly more distally on the Bean knife and the long pull extends to the tang on the milled knife but stops 2mm short of tang on the Bean.
It's a drawn swage done by hand by the cutler. Surely difference of 1-2mm is within the range of normal variation ? Same for the long pull.
Regarding the swage, pull and blade tip, i would like to hear from a cutler with production knife experience as to how much knife to knife variation occurs.
And, has there ever been a documented case of a faked 2OT presented in this forum or elsewhere that you know of ?
It would be great to see another L.L. Bean 2OT for comparison. It it were to have milled liners then that would all but prove mine to be a re-work.
thanks, kj