L6 blades -- your experiences?

P

PB Wilson

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Jul 17, 2006
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I'm curious about L6 as a blade steel. It doesn't seem to be used as much as some of the others around here but from what I've read, it's tough, holds an edge but is easy to rust.

Anyone have any experience with L6? I'd appreciate your input. Thanks.

BTW, I'm not building with it, just interested in makers that offer this steel in their knife line.
 
I'm pretty sure Koyote uses it sometimes in his knives. He might chime in and enlighten us. :)
 
I just bought a Muskratman Bushcraft in L6 off eBay (I think from someone in this thread).

Anyway, L6 is supposed to be very tough, but very prone to rusting so it needs to be kept clean and oiled.
 
I have a 3/32" bushcrafter by Muskrat Man in L6 steel - it's held up very well, and has required very little maintenance or sharpening (just a wipe of the blade w/ a silicone cloth & some quick stropping).
 
I have a Muskrat Man Puukko and a Koyote Leuku Bushcrafter. Both are L6 (I think Koyote uses the Swedish version of L6 if I'm not mistaken). I love them both; L6 is my favorite knife steel. It is very tough and takes an amazing edge. Like stated, it can and will rust like any carbon steel. I don't worry about it too much and just keep them clean and oiled. I don't care too much how my knife blades look. They're for use, but I don't really have a problem with them rusting.

As long as the treat and grind are good, you'll love it too. My MM Puukko is Scandi grind and the Koyote is convex. Both cut like lasers, but each grind performs better at differnt tasks it seems.

I don't know what it is about L6, but it just "feels" different when I sharpen it. For me it is easier to sharpen because of this. I don't know how to describe it really. if this makes any sense, it feels harder and denser than other steels when sharpening. When I feel it start to get "slick" against a clean, unloaded stone, I know I'm there.
 
I don't have experience with L6 but do use 8670M which is almost identical to L6. It's a tough steel that can take alot of hard use.
Scott
 
PB Wilson said:
I'm curious about L6 as a blade steel....
Click to expand...

I have three in L6 and three more on the way - All from Muskrat Man. All have a "high Scandi" grind and are rather thin at the edge but stand up well and take an edge easily. The edge is quite durable and usually requires no more than a light stropping on the "fine side" of my strop after heavy use. They may be prone to rust but I use them enough that it doesn't seem to get a chance to get started. I don't know that it is any better than any other steel but it certainly does not seem to lack anything either.
 
koyote works with L6 alot, maybe he will post .i got a couple in progress now, but im not sure if either are in L6. once i get them (assuming that at least one of them is L6) i will post some feedback.
 
somehow i missed this one. I most commonly use 15N20, L6, and some 8670M (which is growing on me, it's fantastic for doing custom work)

L6 is great stuff, just kind of hard to work and heat treat in a backyard shop :D no problems with edge holding or durability. very durable. I'd say it's less prone to rust than O1, but probably more so than some of the carbon steels. Very subjective, though.

15N20 is another steel often used for similar purposes as is 8760M. I'd say my feeling is that in knives (swords may be a different story) they are all going to be tough, durable, hold a good edge, and be less rust prone than a simple 10xx steel or O1. Where the 15N20 and 8760M shine is that they are far easier to get good QC on in a small budget shop. They do well with interrupted quenching, "regular" oils, ash bucket annealing, and temper very well. It's not just the steel, but what the steel is used for, that matters. and the "first use" of a steel is the making of the knife.....
 
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