laminating sawzall blades.

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bighat10 said:
The fact that the steel in sawzall blades is horrible, is not news to me.

I did listen, then I went my own way. You guys said it wouldnt work, thats fine you are most likely right. But! I do not care. I enjoy trying out crazy ideas, and 99.9% of them fail.



I never said the blades were of any sort of quality. I wouldn't give one to my worst enemy. But hey, its practice that costs nothing.
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Anything worth doing, is worth doing right. There is NO way to "laminate" your blades in a way that would make them useable as a knife. About the only thing useful, knife related, things you could make out of them are some broaches. Broaches are a tool used to scrape out the cavity on mortise tang knives. Search "broaches" on here to find out more.

You came here and asked for help. Experienced individuals took the time to give you very good advice(using 1084 and don't waste time/belts) and you disregarded it. Saying "you don't care" about the advice people are taking the time to give you is disrespectful. Not a real good way to start off here. A genuine "thank you" seems more appropriate to me.

It's not "practice" either. That would be like a baseball player practicing hitting by swinging a broom around. Also, it's not "free." If you continue to make knives you'll understand how enormous the cost of abrasive belts can be. Finally, time is worth enough to me to not piss it away on fruitless endeavors.

Utilize the advice given and sell the lot of blades for a hundred or two and buy a bunch of good steel to use.
 
I couldn't agree more with all the fine advice given ... especially "Sell the blades and buy some 1084". :thumbup:



Since the OP is being a little silly about this, I got to thinking what you could do if you HAD to use some of these blades to produce a 'real' knife--cost and wasted labor not withstanding...

I'd strip the paint and forge weld them into a billet. Shape into a blade by forging and/or stock removal to about 50% final shape, depending on the length of the blade.
I'd trot down to the local Bodycote Hinderliter that happens to do deep carburizing which can raise the carbon average by about .8 or so from whatever you start with all the way through more than 1/8 inch cross section. I experimented with this on some pattern welded pieces many years ago, and it actually works really well. Not cheap, though with minimums and all, and not really practical (unless you had some weird situation), so it's all academic, but it can be done if you were silly/stubborn/maybe foolish enough to insist on repurposing sawzall blades in this way.

My advice is like everyone else: start with 1084 and don't be a moron!;)
 
bighat10 said:
The fact that the steel in sawzall blades is horrible, is not news to me.

I did listen, then I went my own way. You guys said it wouldnt work, thats fine you are most likely right. But! I do not care. I enjoy trying out crazy ideas, and 99.9% of them fail.



I never said the blades were of any sort of quality. I wouldn't give one to my worst enemy. But hey, its practice that costs nothing.
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Then why waste anyone's time even asking the question. Do what you want, and show us the knife when it's done.
 
To give bighat some small credit:

Bill Moran once said to me, "I tried 100 ways to make damascus...99 of them don't work!"

Of course, Bill asked other peoples advice, and listened to what they said.
 
That is a possibility.
I will close the thread anyway, because ball that can be said already has.
 
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