Lansky Deluxe Guided Angle Sharpening System

You're welcome Robert.

I hadn't known Lansky had upgraded their clamp either, but I had wished for it for quite some time. I had even filed the inside corners of the notch on the old clamp, because they weren't square (they were radiused), and wouldn't hold a small blade securely. I bought a diamond kit after de-flattening a couple of hones in the 'Deluxe' kit on an S30V reprofile job. The new clamp was not expected, but a pleasant bonus. Another plus with the new clamp, is the upward half of the 'L', where the guide holes are. This clamp is more rigidly cast, and doesn't bend or flex like the thinner arms of the older one did. It's also got a different and more 'grippy' finish (looks like bead-blast) than the machined and somewhat slick inside faces of the older clamp.
 
Soooo.... since you have a lot of experience with the Lansky system as well, do you prefer the diamonds of the carborundum stones? If the diamond, are they worth the money? My current set has spent most of its days with 1095, 420HC, 1084, etc., and a ton of my old Kershaws in AUS6 and similar. Those are much softer and less abrasion resistant than many steels today. The stones are actually in good shape still, and like you, I got the clamp up to speed by recutting the inside corners. After a few years, they became round and I couldn't always tell if I had the knife in where it was supposed to be or not.

After reading your previous post and this one as well, I will probably be ordering a new system next week. Since the Lansky seems to last just about forever, I don't want to be a cheapskate (my natural inclination is to be quite thrifty!) and think 5 - 6 years from now "gee, I wish I had spend the other $25 and bought the diamond set". With as much use and as many sharpenings as I have had over the years with my old system, I wouldn't have any heartburn buying the diamonds set if it was honestly better.

So whadya think? TIA , David.

Robert
 
I think having at least one XC/Coarse diamond hone is a big advantage for rebevelling. With my previous kit (the 'Deluxe' with the carborundum hones), I had relied pretty heavily on a medium diamond hone I'd bought to supplement it, and to use as my starting hone. The standard hones work well enough in the medium/fine/xf grits, but I noticed the XC/Coarse hones seemed to load up very fast and get clogged, and that's when I decided to pick up the supplementary diamond hone. It was coarse enough to handle most of the work I gave it, with simple, low-alloy steels for the most part (1095, 440A, 420HC, 425M, AUS-8, VG-10). The S30V reprofile job is what really gave me a run for the money, and is also what prompted me to go ahead and buy the diamond kit. The medium diamond hone already had some wear, and I pretty much used up the rest of it on that blade, AND also dished out the XC/Coarse carborundum hones, which previously had little use or wear.

I still use the Fine/EF (600/1000) ceramic hones from the 'Deluxe' kit, as those are excellent finishing hones. The other hones in the 'Deluxe' kit are now officially retired. ;)
 
Thank you one and all for the good counsel.
Its on its way. I should have it by Saturday is what FedEx tells me.
my BK14, The Zytel Scales and te Lansky Deluxe system.
Is it odd that I am as excited by my first guided angle system as I am by my first Becker?
 
Thank you one and all for the good counsel.
Its on its way. I should have it by Saturday is what FedEx tells me.
my BK14, The Zytel Scales and te Lansky Deluxe system.
Is it odd that I am as excited by my first guided angle system as I am by my first Becker?
 
Its here.
Haven't yet sharpened with it. Going to put an edge on my Scamp first and then reprofile my new eskabar to 25Deg on the Lansky
Will report soon.
 
I've been using the Lansky Arkansas system for a bit and like how the Lansky system works.
I just got the Fine Diamond hone in the mail several days ago, to compliment the Arkansas stones on harder steels. It works great. I tried it out on an old, inexpensive, stainless, fixed blade and it put a great smooth edge on it. I finished it off with 1500 then 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the edges. They did a great job.
I simply cut the sandpaper the length and width of a Lansky stone and used Scotch tape to hold the sandpaper on. Then I used a scrubbing action similar to the Wicked Edge method to polish the edges. This was a first time attempt and I was quite please with the result.
While not perfect, at this stage of learning, the edges had a nice polish to them. I could see some honing marks, used my stereo microscope at work...lucky me, but the polish looked nice and it cut smoothly for an inexpensive, Roku, fixed blade I had lying around.
 
The sandpaper idea is pretty cool. I will be out looking for some 1500 & 2000 grit paper to try :)
Thank you
Kai Winters said:
I've been using the Lansky Arkansas system for a bit and like how the Lansky system works.
I just got the Fine Diamond hone in the mail several days ago, to compliment the Arkansas stones on harder steels. It works great. I tried it out on an old, inexpensive, stainless, fixed blade and it put a great smooth edge on it. I finished it off with 1500 then 2000 grit sandpaper to polish the edges. They did a great job.
I simply cut the sandpaper the length and width of a Lansky stone and used Scotch tape to hold the sandpaper on. Then I used a scrubbing action similar to the Wicked Edge method to polish the edges. This was a first time attempt and I was quite please with the result.
While not perfect, at this stage of learning, the edges had a nice polish to them. I could see some honing marks, used my stereo microscope at work...lucky me, but the polish looked nice and it cut smoothly for an inexpensive, Roku, fixed blade I had lying around.
Click to expand...
 
I read about using the sandpaper on this forum I think. Not sure of the thread. Not an original idea of mine but I had the same thought you expressed. I got the sandpaper at my local Advanced Auto parts store for $5 per grit. They even had 3000 grit...yipes. There are enough sheets, considering I cut off a piece just wide enough to cover the stone, to last a long, long time.
 
It works! And extremely well too.
Re-profiled 2 kitchen knives to 20Deg and the Extra Fine Stone polishes it up just fine. Apparently not Edge Pro fine but my kitchen knives and my Kershaw Scamp now shave hair, wave cut newspaper and make transparent slices of tomatoes.

It takes patience and a little skill to keep the stone flat on the edge and not have it contact the sharp part. I also find that hooking my thumb lightly over the rod behind the guide hole helps keep it flat. It works, no guess work. It is to sharpening what the Crossbow was to archery. It reduces the minimum required skill level greatly while achieving a possibly better result.

I will put up pics both before and after of my new Eskabar when I am confident enough of going after new knife.

Cheerz
 
Indianbladenoob said:
It works! And extremely well too.
Re-profiled 2 kitchen knives to 20Deg and the Extra Fine Stone polishes it up just fine. Apparently not Edge Pro fine but my kitchen knives and my Kershaw Scamp now shave hair, wave cut newspaper and make transparent slices of tomatoes.

It takes patience and a little skill to keep the stone flat on the edge and not have it contact the sharp part. I also find that hooking my thumb lightly over the rod behind the guide hole helps keep it flat. It works, no guess work. It is to sharpening what the Crossbow was to archery. It reduces the minimum required skill level greatly while achieving a possibly better result.
Click to expand...

Good for you! When I got my Lansky system about 30 years ago I couldn't get an edge with it. I finally figured out it wasn't fool proof and it did actually take a bit of practice. Once I go that part figured out, I will put my most expensive knives in the clamp without a moment's hesitation.

Glad it met your expectations.

Robert
 
Indianbladenoob said:
It works! And extremely well too.
Re-profiled 2 kitchen knives to 20Deg and the Extra Fine Stone polishes it up just fine. Apparently not Edge Pro fine but my kitchen knives and my Kershaw Scamp now shave hair, wave cut newspaper and make transparent slices of tomatoes.

It takes patience and a little skill to keep the stone flat on the edge and not have it contact the sharp part. I also find that hooking my thumb lightly over the rod behind the guide hole helps keep it flat. It works, no guess work. It is to sharpening what the Crossbow was to archery. It reduces the minimum required skill level greatly while achieving a possibly better result.

I will put up pics both before and after of my new Eskabar when I am confident enough of going after new knife.

Cheerz
Click to expand...

That's good news. Glad you like it. :thumbup:

Regarding keeping the hone flat to the bevel, you'll develop a 'touch' for that before long. I've been in the habit of keeping the pad of my index finger along the top of the hone. This really helps with the 'feel' of contact between hone & blade, and also stabilizes everything, so the hone doesn't skip or bounce. I've also usually used some water with the hones, which sort of lubricates everything, and enhances the tactile feedback too, especially with the finishing hones (600/1000). Take each stroke slow & light, and that will go a long way towards keeping everything stable. For me, the 'bouncing' and/or 'skipping' always starts to happen if I get impatient and try to rush the process.

BTW, I also have adapted the finger hooked over the guide rod, to stabilize that end. :thumbup:
 
Thank you Robert and David
Robert,
I agree it is not fool-proof but nature always makes a better fool as was obvious when I screwed up the kitchen knives twice before I got the edge. Though it was a revelation when my fingertips finally understood the meaning of "burr" :D. Is "epiphanic" even a word?
So I will be practicing a little more on my other knives (I have a few) before I move to my none-too-cheap Eskabar. The cost doubled with shipping and customs duty. I am also worried that none of my other blades have quite as much belly as the Becker.

David,
I sort of play the violin with it. I know how that sounds but I find that holding the clamp either with the blade towards you or away from you and moving the hone like a violin bow was the easiest technique to keep everything where its supposed to be and allowed me to brace behind the clamp with my thumb. I don't know if this will work on the Becker's ample belly. It occurs to me that re-curved blades would still be a b@#*% to sharpen. Maybe Lansky should make a set of cylindrical hones for re-curved blades? I am sure a lot of ZT owners would appreciate that. Or do they all buy Edge Pro?
And yes I learned to fight the temptation to put pressure on the hone. It seemed to grind off bits from the edge itself.

All in all, I say again, it works! Once I get this right I want to learn how to convex blades :D
 
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Indianbladenoob said:
Thank you Robert and David
Robert,
I agree it is not fool-proof but nature always makes a better fool as was obvious when I screwed up the kitchen knives twice before I got the edge. Though it was a revelation when my fingertips finally understood the meaning of "burr" :D. Is "epiphanic" even a word?
So I will be practicing a little more on my other knives (I have a few) before I move to my none-too-cheap Eskabar. The cost doubled with shipping and customs duty.

David,
I sort of play the violin with it. I know how that sounds but I find that holding the clamp either with the blade towards you or against you and moving the hone like a violin bow was the easiest technique to keep everything where its supposed to be and allowed me to brace behind the clamp with my thumb.
And yes I learned to fight the temptation to put pressure on the hone. It seemed to grind off bits from the edge itself.

All in all, I say again, it works! Once I get tgis right I want to learn how to convex blades :D
Click to expand...

I know that highlighted part was in reply to Robert, but I had the exact same 'epiphany' about recognizing the burr formation, under the same circumstances (getting acquainted with my Lansky for the first time). I was a bit 'dense' to concept of the burr, and even got a little panicky when I saw a big, honkin' sliver of steel break off my edge, onto my fingertip. Didn't even recognize it for a couple seconds, then DING!! The light came on, and I realized I'd just learned something new. A lot of people seem to think these guided systems are just 'crutches' for sharpening, but they will definitely teach some very important lessons, IF one pays attention. It's clear that you are doing just that. :)

And I like your description of 'playing the violin' for this. Light, graceful and elegant. Makes for better sharpening, too. Well said! :D
 
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So true. I mean I was able to get a working edge on anything with my bench-stone and belt, but it was always with uneven bevels and different bevel widths on different parts of the blade. Even after 3 knives on the Lansky I am certain I will do a better job with the bench-stone now. They are "crutches" in that they help you learn to "walk". What's wrong with that?

I don't know if typing it out will jinx it or anything but before the end of 2013 I want to design and make my first proper knife that someone serious about knives will not mind paying for. The late blooming dreams of a 35 yr old media industry corporate monkey....................
Obsessed with Edges said:
I know that highlighted part was in reply to Robert, but I had the exact same 'epiphany' about recognizing the burr formation, under the same circumstances (getting acquainted with my Lansky for the first time). I was a bit 'dense' to concept of the burr, and even got a little panicky when I saw a big, honkin' sliver of steel break off my edge, onto my fingertip. Didn't even recognize it for a couple seconds, then DING!! The light came on, and I realized I'd just learned something new. A lot of people seem to think these guided systems are just 'crutches' for sharpening, but they will definitely teach some very important lessons, IF one pays attention. It's clear that you are doing just that. :)

And I like your description of 'playing the violin' for this. Light, graceful and elegant. Makes for better sharpening, too. Well said! :D
Click to expand...
 
Indianbladenoob said:
So true. I mean I was able to get a working edge on anything with my bench-stone and belt, but it was always with uneven bevels and different bevel widths on different parts of the blade. Even after 3 knives on the Lansky I am certain I will do a better job with the bench-stone now. They are "crutches" in that they help you learn to "walk". What's wrong with that?
Click to expand...

Absolutely not one thing. When I learned to sharpen, it was freehand. Sadly, it was so long ago there was no Lansky. BUT there were good stones around, and my Dad even had an Arkansas hard that was so fine it would polish an edge.

So I grew up with a three stone system. A black India stone from Norton that was also used on our lawn shears, a medium stone of uncertain age that was mounted in a wood block, and that hard Arkansas stone.

But when I sharpened my knives, I had to sit down and make some real time to do it. They were sharpened at different bevels depending on the knife, and each knife needed a careful motion depending on the blade shape. I am good at it, but as a kid it took too long to learn. I would have killed for something like the Lansky system, at least to set bevels I could follow when sharpening or touching up.

Freehand, it took FOREVER to fix a damaged edge (usually several sharpenings) and just as long to set a new bevel angle. The Lansky makes short work of both of those issues. I know other systems do too, but I finally mastered the Lansky and in my opinion few systems do what it does as well, and certainly nothing else at its price point. Believe me, like most here, I have tried everything in my price range.

I will teach my nephew to sharpen his SAK in the new future. If he is a good scout, I will probably be getting him a Lansky 3 hone system soon. He can get his knife up to speed right away with no years of practice to get even bevels and sharp knives. Later, he will also learn from me how to touch up a knife freehand, and only go back to the Lansky once in a while.

I am glad you are having such success with your system. A good sharp knife just makes a guy proud.

Robert
 
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