Lansky or Sharpmaker?

dylan_d

dylan_d

Joined
Dec 30, 2002
Messages
1,242
What would you guys recommend to someone who isn't very good at sharpening(me)? A Lansky or 204? I can get a 204 for 40 bucks plus shipping. Oh yeah, I have a BM mini AFCK. Thanks.
 
I have a Smith version of a Lansky, and a 204. My 806D2 wasn't up to par with the factory edge when I got it. I took it to the 204, and had it shaving sharp in a matter of minutes. Nothing to clamp to the blade, and you get a consistent edge. From my experience with the clamp models, you have to clamp the knife in the exact spot each time you sharpen it to keep consistent edge bevels. I have used the 204 more than the Smith though. Just never cared much for the oil mess it makes.
 
I've never used a clamp-type sharpening system, just a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a Spyderco Profile. I don't even use the Sharpmaker anymore, because I've gotten good enough at holding a consistent angle while using the Profile, which is essentially a freehand system. The Sharpmaker, you will notice, provides only one angle of grind if one holds the blade to the vertical. If you have a shallower or higher angle grind on your blade, you cannot hold the blade vertical but instead have to angle it, which means you are back to doing what you'd have to do with a Profile anyway, which is find the right grind angle and hold it. This can be tricky, of course, but once you have a feel for it all you need is a one-piece sharpening system: the dark ceramic Profile stone. (I never even use the white fine grit one. I get a shaving edge with the medium stone.)

Good luck.
 
Yeah, I was wondering about the angle thing. What angle is the 204? And, does anyone know the angle that BM puts on their knives? Specificly an 814? Thanks.
 
Originally posted by peacefuljeffrey
The Sharpmaker, you will notice, provides only one angle of grind if one holds the blade to the vertical.
Click to expand...
Actually it provides two fixed angles (30 degree and 40 degree). Yes, the 30 degree is labled for back bevel, but several knives come with 30 degree edges these days. Also, with the 204, you can use it as a bench stone if you lay the two rods in the slots on the underside of the base. This places them side by side like a bench stone, which gives you infinite angles, but yes, as you pointed out, it is free hand. And you are correct about having to go freehand if your knife doesn't match up to the preset angles. However, I have several knives that don't exactly match with their factory edge. I just use the 40 degree setting, and it removes metal from only the very edge. Makes sharpening much quicker than removing metal along the entire edge bevel.

Mike
 
The Spyderco 204 is as easy as pie. Highly recommended, any clamp system is much tougher to use.
 
I find my lansky easy to use, easy to set up, and gets all my knives as sharp as i need them within 5 minutes. I have little to no sharpening skills and i get an even razor edge with it every time.
The first time i used the lansky, i was suprized how easy it was and got used to it in about 5 minutes.
 
Either systm is great, really. But I think that a beginner can do a lot with:

1) A print-out of Joe's FAQ here on Bladeforums

2) A coarse bench stone for thinning out edges

3) The Sharpmaker for putting on edges


Sooner or later, you're going to have to thin out the edge of your knife. For "normal" blades (no recurves or hawkbills), a coarse bench stone does this job fast and easily. You don't have to be super careful with keeping the 'relief bevels' even either, as all you want to do is hog off steel. If you were going to use, say, the 30 degree setting on the sharpmaker, then you grind in your relief at 10 or 12 degrees. With the relief ground on each side, you switch to the sharpmaker and do a bunch of strokes on one side. A burr will pop up very quickly. Then you switch to the other side of the knife and do as many strokes as it takes until a burr pops up again (this time, on the opposite side.) Then follow the instructions that came with the sharpmaker (20 alternating strokes, switch to the fine stones, 20 alternating strokes, done!). The sharpmaker is fast to set up, stores in its own body, and does serrations very easily too.

I liek the Lansky type system as well. For smaller knives, it is great. With larger knives you have to move the blade a few times (re-setting the clamp each time). My bro-in-law got one for x-mas and loves it.

All systems work, but some will work better for you than others. My recomendation is, as said above, a sharpmaker and a coarse stone (200 grit waterstone, coarse or x-coarse DMT, etc.) After you get some practice, a belt sander and a strop is a beautiful thing to have.
 
For ease and efficiency of use the 204 beats the Lansky. It's easier and quicker to set up and will probably give you a finer edge because of the fine ceramic stones.

I find the Lansky set up to be a litte more tedious and it tends to leave more of a wire edge on the knife than does the 204.
 
Originally posted by stjames
The Spyderco 204 is as easy as pie. Highly recommended, any clamp system is much tougher to use.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with stjames reply.
I use the Spyderco (original older model) Sharpmaker and it works extremely well and is easy and fun to use.
 
Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

The Lansky is much easier to profile with and you can also obtain a very high level of sharpness with the various stones (BTW, the sapphire stone kicks ass when used on quality steel). It can be tedious at times and a little messy when compared to the Spyderco. The clamp will make a mess of finely finished, beadblast and black coated blades, make sure you put a little masking tape on the spine first. You also cannot sharpen fully flat ground blades very easily as they lack a flat surface for the clamp. I have done this by using a heavy cardboard folded over the spine before you clamp.

The Spyderco is super easy and fast, as long as you are just touching up an edge. If you have to remove much metal, you will be in for a long night. Especially on some of the advanced, high-tech stainless steels. Say nothing about heavy edged chisel grinds like Emerson. A chip on an Emerson and you will be there nearly forever removing it. If you decide on the Spyderco, follow Cray's advice and get yourself a coarse benchstone to do you profiling with.
 
I have both and I'm pretty new to sharpening. I'm still getting the hang of the 204, but what seems to work best for me is I make sure the bevel is 40 on the lansky and then hone with the 204
 
Definately the 204. Haven't used the Lansky but can't imagine something being so effective, and also so easy as the Sharpmaker.

Seriously it only took me 1 hour to learn how to use the thing pretty good......make sure you get the instructional video with it though, can't imagine learning without it. (that's only because I'm illiterate, or is that lazy?):p
 
Blademan 13 said:
The clamp will make a mess of finely finished, beadblast and black coated blades,make sure you put a little masking tape on the spine first.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip. Don't know why I didn't think of that. That was my only complaint for the Lansky system.
 
One point nobody has made yet. V sharpeners (and the Spyderco is an excellent one) are quite good for maintaining edges but aren't up to snuff if you need to regrind bevels on a dulled edge. The Lansky (yes it is a little messy and fussy to use) at least will do that effectively. Perhaps the answer is to have both.
 
I would tend to agree with Fred, maybe both are needed. The Lansky will easily reprofile an edge. Personally, I like the Sharpmaker better because it is just easier to use to touch up an edge. I have only used my Lansky set about 5 times in the 3 or 4 years I have had it, and as mentioned before, it was to reprofile an edge that was in Bad shape.
regards,
Webmaster - www.knifeworks.com
 
Thanks for the tips guys, they really helped. As I said, I will use this mainly to keep my BM razor sharp, I really won't be doing any profiling. So, it sounds like the 204 is the way to go. Thanks :)
 
Hey Fred, Look Up! I mentioned re-doing bevels before you did! :P

dylan, you will, sooner or later, neet to reprofile the edge of your Benchmade. You will, sooner or later, acquire more knives,and they all will require reprofiling! So don't let that affect your decision.

But like I said earlier, reprofiling is easy, and it doesn't take a lot of skill. Then you just use your sharpmaker to put on edge bevels. Though that is an operation that requires skill, the sharpmaker does all of the hard stuff for you!
 
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