Lansky Quick-fix

E

edc3

Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
3
I recently bought a LANSKY QUICK-FIX sharpener. I ran my Benchmade 551 through Tungsten slot a few times and then the "Crock Stick" side a few times per the instructions. The knife is now DULLER than before. What gives? In reading some posts here I'm thinking that maybe the sharpening angle of the Quick Fix is different from the factory edge of my knife. Any ideas why this happened and how to fix it? I'm a total sharpening newbie.

Thanks!
 
Those type of sharpeners are not good for your knife, and, IMHO, shouldn't be used unless they are the last option. My recommendation is to purchase a spyderco sharpmaker from your favorite vendor that has one, and a 15X lighted loupe from Lee Valley Tools. I have three 551's, and they all were sharpened at or less than 30 degrees included from the factory which is the steeper setting on the sharpmaker. Follow the directions on the DVD that comes with the sharpmaker, and observe your blade under the loupe every few strokes to see where you are hitting at first, and then to see things progress and take shape. It will really open your eyes. If you happen to be in the Denver Metro area, I would be happy to give you a hands on tutorial. If not, I bet you could find some helpful soul on the forum here that is somewhere within easy driving distance that could help you out should you still be stuck later.

If you can't afford the sharpmaker, at least get the loupe, and a two sided stone from somewhere (you can get these fairly cheaply) then start on the stone using the loupe to see how you are doing and how you have to vary your angle to hit the edge. You can learn all this without the loupe, but it will accelerate the process, and help you to internalize what you are doing through observation.
 
Definately get rid of the pull-thru. I have a personal thing against crock sticks like the sharpmaker, but that doesn't mean they don't work great if you don't want to put the time into learning to freehand, plus I've heard they are good for recurves and serrations. But whether you drop the coin on a sharpmaker, or just some cheap arkansas stones, some type of magnification will help you get over the learning curve quicker.
 
Thanks very much for the info. I just ordered a Sharpmaker from Gpknives and I already have a loupe.

The thing that irritates me about the Lansky is that I bought it from Aeromedix with my Ritter Grip. I'm glad I tried it on my 551 first.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Let us know when you get it, and what kind of results you get. If you run into any problems, post or drop me a line, and I will do my best to help you out. Once you get things going with the sharpmaker, you will start to obsess....pretty soon you will have waterstones, strops, more powerful loupe or dissecting microscope, and lots of different ceramics and diamonds.
 
Wayne, Carbide sharpeners work by stripping steel away from the edge of the knife blade. they cannot adjust to match the bevel on your blade so you must continue stripping steel untill you basicly reprofile the edge to match the sharpener, this causes the blade to wear out quickly..Also they do not provide a fine finish on the edge, they leave a rough uneven edge leading to more sharpening and more wearing away of the blade....Then the cycle continues untill you buy a new knife (because that last one wouldn't hold an edge)repeat, repeat repeat:grumpy: That is why carbide sharpeners are no good!!!!!!
 
bigbcustom said:
Let us know when you get it, and what kind of results you get. If you run into any problems, post or drop me a line, and I will do my best to help you out. Once you get things going with the sharpmaker, you will start to obsess....pretty soon you will have waterstones, strops, more powerful loupe or dissecting microscope, and lots of different ceramics and diamonds.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much. I'll let you know if I run into problems. I'm thinking I'll try out the sharpmaker on some of my older knives first. Then on to the Benchmade.

Sounds like my knife obsession will be directly competing with my flashlight obsession. :eek:
 
Well, you started out well when you bought the Ritter Grip (folder or fixed Mk3??). As another suggested, throw the pull-through away.
 
I wish I had read this thread before I tried sharpening my brand new FFG Delica on a Lansky Quick-fix. #!@$?%! Previously, I could cut through paper cleanly like butter, and now it just tears the paper into a rippy mess. Bringing this thread back from the dead to send a warning to everyone about this item.
 
This topic comes up pretty regularly. As others have said, throw the thing out.

Here's a link to a detailed article on the effects of different sharpening methods & tools on blade edges, with high-mag images:
http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/2009/12/micro-photos-of-identical-knives-after.html

Here's a pic from that article, of what a crossed-carbide pull-through sharpener does to an edge:
Smiths+Side+1+Coarse+230x.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just ordered a Sharpmaker. I guess if I were to look at the bright side, it gives me a reason to learn how to use it.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
This topic comes up pretty regularly. As others have said, throw the thing out.

Here's a link to a detailed article on the effects of different sharpening methods & tools on blade edges, with high-mag images:
http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/2009/12/micro-photos-of-identical-knives-after.html

Here's a pic from that article, of what a crossed-carbide pull-through sharpener does to an edge:
Smiths+Side+1+Coarse+230x.jpg
Click to expand...

jesus christ thats horrible! looks like metal would flake off into your food if you used that for food prep!
 
i loaned my uncle henry steelhead fillet knife to my bro in law who used a pull through sharpener on it. i chewed him out good for screwing up my edge and after several years i finally got rid of the lines the carbide scraper piece of crap put in my blade. i used to have a guided system and i'll never go back since they are almost as bad as a carbide scraper since they never match up to the angle previously put on by them. if you want to get a system that is easy to use and for around $100 check out my paper wheel thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
 
I have to deal with those edges all the time, since that seems to be something people resort to before they bring it into the shop for me to fix. I usually go right to the 120-grit belt on those, after a scraper you need to completely re-profile the edge to get the drag marks and the awful chips out. On the rare occasion that they used it LIGHTLY, you can sometimes get away with starting on the A65, but not all that often. We call those "scrape-and-cry" sharpeners at the place I sharpen.
 
I once used my own 'visual aid' to illustrate to myself what the carbide pull-throughs do to an edge. It is eerily similar to taking something like a business card or index card, and a pair of scissors opened to a 'V' and pointed upwards. Take the card and 'pinch' it down into the 'V' of the scissors, and then pull the card sideways out of the 'V'. It RIPS the edge of the card in much the same way as the carbide 'scissors' does to the very delicate, thin edge of a knife, leaving little tattered shreds along the edge. It's UGLY.

I don't call it a sharpener. It's a steel RIPPER.
 
Last edited:
Obsessed with Edges said:
This topic comes up pretty regularly. As others have said, throw the thing out.

Here's a link to a detailed article on the effects of different sharpening methods & tools on blade edges, with high-mag images:
http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/2009/12/micro-photos-of-identical-knives-after.html

Here's a pic from that article, of what a crossed-carbide pull-through sharpener does to an edge:
Smiths+Side+1+Coarse+230x.jpg
Click to expand...

My eyes! :eek:
For sharpening, I use the Deluxe Lansky Sharpening System. It's not an Edge Pro or anything, but it gets my knives razor sharp consistently and easily. Plus it only cost me $30. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top