Lansky sharpener

I have been using the Lansky Clamp system for a long time.
Just try and position the knife in the same spot each time.
It does take a while to put your edge on a knife, but after that, it touches up quick.
I use the 25 angle
Also use the diamond hones on the S30 V.

One other thing, Don't get carried away. You can over sharpen.

I also finish a blade with a leather strop, Whether it is an old belt, side of my boot, or the wife beater strop I bought at a gun show.
Strop does put a sharper edge on one, taking off the bead.
 
The actual angle a new knife comes with is the easiest angle. Changing the angle to a shallower grind can be a pain. My 110 is 17 degrees per side now and sharpens easily at that angle.
 
Pack Rat said:
Also use the diamond hones on the S30 V.
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I know S30V has a reputation as being hard to sharpen, but it only took about 24 strokes total on each side to get a nice sharp edge and 12 per side with each of the finer grades to polish it up nicely. What advantage do you see in using the diamond stones?

One other thing, Don't get carried away. You can over sharpen.
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Do you mean sharpening too frequently, taking too much off with the coarse hones, using a finer stone than necessary, or something else?
 
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One other thing, Don't get carried away. You can over sharpen.
Do you mean sharpening too frequently, taking too much off with the coarse hones, using a finer stone than necessary, or something else?
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Take as few strokes as you can with what ever hone you are using on what ever blade you are sharpening.

Takes a while to learn how few strokes to take to get a blade sharp.
And depends on condition of the edge.

CJ Buck talked one time about over sharpening and going past the point of the blade being as sharp as it is going to get. After that, just removing metal.
 
Ah, yes. Well, I generally go only until I've raised a burr on both edges before moving to the next grit.
 
They take too long, the stones build up with particles and I think personally that people over think angles.

I use Japanese Waterstones 2000/6000 combo. I think freehand sharpening is a skill that is being lost because of the use of jigs.

All my Buck knives get sharpened this way and I also find it relaxing. I had a near miss with that lansky clamp. Never again.
 
VT, yes. I usually only raise a burr on each bevel with the same stone. Knock it off and I'm done. (freehand) No stropping. If you've just sharpened it, then it should be sharp. I took what Mr. Buck was saying differently. i.e. don't raise a large burr. Sharpen to a small burr. Remove it and you're done. The more you sharpen and strop the more you'll convex the edge apex and remove metal. Thus, I sharpen minimal. If after 2 weeks I notice the blade is no longer at the sharp level I like. I try to strop it back sharp, with slurry on a board. Sometimes on leather. You can do this for several months before you need to take the blade back to the stone. Thus, you save your blade. Helping it to last longer. Stropping takes longer than sharpening because you're not removing metal. With hunting & camping knives this is not a big deal. I sharpen most of mine once a year and strop them the rest of the year. With my kitchen knives and my axes it's huge. As they require attention once a month and I don't want to wear them out soon. DM
 
I have a double bit axe from 1950, a True Temper Kelly. That my Grandfather gave me in 1975. It sees a lot of use. As we heat our home, only with wood I cut. Mostly oak. We have 2 sets of kitchen knives. One from 1980 that I retired in 2009. They are worn from sharpening and convexed. I could restore them and they were not given the knife care I can do now. Then our Buck kitchen set that I purchased for my wife for our 20 year anniversary in 2009. She loves them and wants them to last. So, I sharpen them maybe once a quarter and strop them the rest of the time through the year. DM
 
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