I started sharpening by hand as taught by my father in the early/mid 60's. I thought that anyone that couldn't free hand in a good Washita soft should have their knives taken away from them.
However at this point, I will concede there are easier and possibly better way than spending a few months/years learning how to free hand on a 2"X8" stone. I was pointed to the Lansky system about 20 years ago by a custom knife maker I met at a gun show that told me he set the grind angles on his knifes on the Lansky.
I am with CJ65 on the love/hate relationship. Mostly love, but the system has its drawbacks. Here are some of each as I have experienced them:
Pros:
+ Affordable, almost inexpensive. Stones are great quality, and using honing oil with them I have used the same ones for about 10 - 12 years now. Replacement stones are inexpensive.
+ This tool can reprofile the edge on just about any blade up to about 4 inches long. I recently used the regular alox stones and honing oil to reprofile my Shallot with S110V. No problems with that, and it will touch up that steel effortlessly
+ With practice, you can grind out nicks and resharpen a hard steel blade in just a couple of minutes. Medium hard steels even less.
+ The set fits nicely into its box, and sets up in seconds. You get 3 -4 stones in the set depending on which setup you get, and this is like having 3 - 4 regular sharpening stones. It enables you to go through all the grits as needed without pulling out all the old cumbersome bench stones
+ The serrated edge stone makes sharpening even the aggressive, toothy serrations a snap
+ The repeatability of the grind angle is more than easy. No frustrated grinding of uneven edges with this system. Better edges mean better edge holding ability.
+ Lansky now offers a couple of new stones, one that is a 1000 grit (yellow) and the 2000 grit (sapphire/blue). These will easily transform just about any knife it can hold onto (see below) into a razor
Cons:
- This thing is almost impossible to use without the pedestal. Come on... for a couple of bucks why would they leave that out?
- To be able to use the clamp, the blade MUST have a flat surface for it to clamp. So on a full ground, flat ground blade, forget it. SOL. You literally cannot hold the blade straight in the clamp due to its flat jaws being able to grasp a steeply angled surface like my Tenacious
- I have found that any blade over about 4" - 5" can have the geometry of the grind screwed up due to the changing length of the rod pivot point to the stone position on the blade. For example, if you clamp the blade in the middle, the angle of the grind is less the farther you get from the pivot point due to the increased angle. So on a larger blade, you will have more angle by the pivot point (clamp) than you will as the stone gets farther away from the pivot
- You can sharpen a slightly recurved blade with ease, but a real sow belly or something like a Kershaw Bump, forget it
I would like this system more if they would make the guide wires less flexible, a model with a larger blade clamp and a larger guide slot (for larger knives).
As it is, you can sharpen larger knives on it (I sharpen my Buck 119 on it) but you must have a flat spine on which to move the clamp. A wider clamp with a longer guide slot would not only give you the ability to sharpen large knives without moving the clamp, but due to the ability to have a longer stroke you might be able to sharpen faster.
I like the system enough to buy more stones when I get these worn down, but if I had recurves or a lot of large knives I would probably look at another system to back this one up. To me, no one system is perfect.
I would not trade this system for any other for sharpening my old folders in the shoe box. Especially for smaller blades this thing kicks butt.
As always, your mileage my vary.
Robert