Lansky System

WI_Hedgehog

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Apr 20, 2026
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I haven't seen a Lansky thread go active in a while, and Lansky stones are an affordable way to get a great edge compared to most home methods--at least for people not sharpening as a hobby. They're fast and affordable, not "$20 affordable," but "reasonably affordable." Well, "fast" is relative, if you want "sharp" they're "fast," if you want "WHOA! That's sharp!!" it takes longer.

I started with Lansky over 20 years ago when a friend introduced me to them--what an eye opener! He had the type of knife sharpness that was better than the factory put on the knife new. That's what I was looking for so I bought a 5-hone system and got great results for about the cost of what I considered a "really good" knife. A year later I wanted better results so added 1000 and 2000 grit polishing hones, but man it took a long time to get a "darn sharp" knife.

I learned about getting a burr though didn't fully understand it, at least not until somewhere around four years ago when I was sharpening other people's knives and it was taking for-ev-er. Figuring there had to be better methods than what I was using I learned what getting a burr really was, plus started stroking both directions instead of following the instructions and stroking only away from the blade edge (which is likely a safety thing, Lansky probably doesn't want fumble-fingers like myself getting hurt).

I bought a quality 10x jeweler's loupe and found I was having trouble getting the hone scratches out of the metal with the next progressively smaller grit, so focused on "using force" when starting the sharpening process until a burr was starting, then stroking (still both directions) progressively lighter until I was holding the knife vertically and barely touching it with the stone. Then I'd make 20 extremely light passes front-to-back of the knife instead of up-and-down and that really helped (Lansky doesn't exactly hold a tight angle and the rods bend slightly when putting pressure on them, so using a stone to get it's own scratches out is far easier than doing so with a less course stone).

Since it was taking several hours to sharpen one small "reasonably priced" knife I expanded the set to include Arkansas stones and figured out where to add them into the existing set by looking at the scratch pattern, and doing so shortened my time somewhat, but it still took two hours or more to get a mirror finish--but, it is a mirror finish where you can see features in the room clearly, just like looking in a mirror. For a while I used diamond stones, but the scratch pattern didn't work well with the other stones so they got sidelined. And...under a loupe you can see it's not really a "mirror finish," but to the naked eye it's amazing!!!

Granted, I think much of the excessive sharpening time comes from people using glass cutting boards instead of wood--doing so can fold a knife edge over in a hurry and require a fair amount of rework when they then keep using the knife and forcing it to cut (generally, back into the glass cutting board). And, sooner or later the same people will cut themselves with a knife I sharpened to "really, really sharp," no matter how much I warned them it is "really, really sharp."

Here's the setup I've built up over the years, the diamond stones didn't get much use like I said but the others have and because I use oil to float away the filings when honing and the same oil to clean the stones after, they look and perform like new (mostly).

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So if you're getting started and have a limited budget, Lansky might be a great way to get really, really good results. I'd suggest getting a $10 Chinese loupe also (they work "pretty well").


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Note: I don't have any relationship with Lansky and the links are not affiliate links, nor do I sell anything knife-related, I just like "really, really sharp" knives and find sharpening relaxing. Are they "really, really sharp" compared to guys with far more expensive setups? Uh, no, Lansky won't hold super-tight angles and the knife edges--while sharp--won't whittle hair or do the other fancy stuff the "far more smarter" people do, and that's okay; and for about $80 you can impress others with your own self-smarts.


🤣
 
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Most of what I learned about the fundamentals of sharpening came when I was learning with a Lansky system 15 years or so ago. If one is patient and observant about what's happening during its use, it can teach a lot.

Up until then, I didn't really understand much about the burr's significance in sharpening until I noticed I'd created a pretty big one that broke away on my fingertip when I was brushing some debris from the edge. That was kind of an epiphany moment, in realizing what had just occurred and what it actually meant in terms of signaling the edge was fully apexed.

I also learned a huge lesson about wear resistance and the impact of very hard carbides in determining what works or doesn't work in the abrasive type chosen to sharpen very wear-resistant steels. I ruined a couple of the standard aluminum oxide Lansky hones, severely dishing and glazing them, in an attempt to reprofile a thick-edged blade in S30V. After doing that, I purchased a couple of the Lansky diamond hones to finish that job. That's when I began to understand that the abrasive must also be hard enough to cut the super hard carbides in wear-resistant steels, and not just the matrix steel itself.

I've long since transitioned to freehand sharpening, which was ultimately my goal when I set out to learn sharpening in the first place. But I give a lot of credit to the lessons learned while I was using my Lansky system.
 
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Lansky was my first system as well. Obsessed talked about the burr… I too discovered the burr, but I watched mine coming off stropped knives in the form of tiny strips of metal. Good stuff. Mine is tucked away in a drawer waiting for the right person to show an interest in “how do you do that?” It will open a world of possibilities.
 
This got me thinking...my Lansky setup (pictured in a previous post above) hasn't been updated in years, and every 2 years or so I try to make a small improvement...and it's been years so I should really do something about that...so I did.

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Now, I think I know what you're thinking, that system looks remarkably well-organized for Lansky, but still, you can tell it's Lansky:

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And there you have it: a better-organized case, stiffer rods, and a few attachments. All good. :thumbsup:
 
I learned a lot from using a lansky, because I was too poor to get a better system. Worked great once I learned that I had to pay really close attention to what I was doing with it so the inherent imprecision of the guide’s oversized holes and changing between stones didn’t screw up my edges.

Once I had figured out what I was doing, I went to freehand because I learned that I really prefer a slightly more convex edge and I didn’t want to deal with the limited diamond stone options (steels I prefer aren’t great on non-diamond stones due to lots of carbides).

But they’re great if you are new to sharpening and don’t want to drop lots of $ on one of the better guided systems and can pay attention to setup and use such that you remove the inherent imprecision of the system.
 
I have to stress the loupe for being able to really see that blade edge. I've managed to lose mine yet again. Just sharpened a knife last night and thought for sure using the sharpie edge trick I was good.

I was not.

And of course you only see it once you think you're done and you pull everything out and put it away.

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the loupe for being able to really see that blade edge. I've managed to lose mine yet again.
I'm telling ya Jeweler's visor is the way to go . Some even have lights built in . Hard to loose too .
In the thirty dollar range give or take .
Can use while sharpening . . . say . . . with one of those stones hand held , edge toward you . I'll do that on occasion . Think inexpensive stainless bur using an India stone to take off the bur before final edge finnessing on the Lansky . I don't have a Lansky but . . . hey . . . I can imagine how useful it could be . 👍
 
I was investigating Lansky products to get up to some sort of speed with them .
I was impressed that they have curved stones for curved edges !

Also can someone please tell me what micron size their "Ultra Fine 1000 Diamond " stone is ?
This the finest of their diamond stones right ?
I might get one of those and who knows from there what all .

How is it from the factory ?
How is it after break in ?
Thanks .
 
If this helps...and I hesitate to say it though will mention this because Lansky doesn't get a lot of traffic here...I have the non-diamond 1000 hone, equivalent to 1000 grit "stone" (but it's "different," like a type of plastic) and the 2000 also, and honestly they work excellent for putting a "mirror" finish on a blade. Seriously amazingly well for a Lansky system, which again is really, really affordable for what it does and a great system.

My experience with diamond in general (not Lancky fine diamond, and I'm still a novice in my opinion) is roughly "divide the grit value by 3" because diamond is so much sharper and leaves a deeper scratch pattern. For Lansky I think that's more like "divide by 1.5" because their diamonda seem smoother (based on the one set I bought decades ago, so not exactly "scientific data").

For hard steels (which is why I bought the diamond set) perhaps use the diamond stones to sharpen and polish, then switch to non-diamond for finishing off the polish, like using a strop (but harder than a leather strop, so maybe it's more better). Maybe. I'm just a novice and barely know which side of a knife to cut with.
 
So far as I know, I don't think I've ever seen Lansky specify or advertise the micron rating for their diamond hones or any of their other hones, for that matter. I wouldn't expect even their finest diamond hone to do any polishing at all. Compare it to something like DMT's EF (1200 / 9 micron), which would leave a fine satin, hazy finish which still retains some toothy bite.

For polishing, Lansky's ceramic hones included in the standard set would work much better. I forget the grit ratings for them, but one is kind of pink/purple in color, and the other is white. Lansky's ceramics are very good quality. The knife pictured below is one that I'd reprofiled and then finished using the two ceramics in my older Lansky set. Blade is in VG-10 steel (EDIT: I actually believe now, it's ATS-34). You can see it is taken to a pretty fine mirror finish on the bevels. Not perfect mirror, but pretty nice by the naked eye.
esC99yO.jpg

vahsmVd.jpg
 
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I started with a lansky and bought extra stones, when I first got into knives I could put mirror edges on my VG-10 and AUS-8 every time, then when I started getting into S110V K390 and such I couldn’t budge them lol! Lucky for me the Apostle P sold me his entire KME set with every attachment they make now I feel like dead box hero lol FEAR NO STEEL!
 
So far as I know, I don't think I've ever seen Lansky specify or advertise the micron rating for their diamond hones or any of their other hones, for that matter. I wouldn't expect even their finest diamond hone to do any polishing at all. Compare it to something like DMT's EF (1200 / 9 micron), which would leave a fine satin, hazy finish which still retains some toothy bite.

For polishing, Lansky's ceramic hones included in the standard set would work much better. I forget the grit ratings for them, but one is kind of pink/purple in color, and the other is white. Lansky's ceramics are very good quality. The knife pictured below is one that I'd reprofiled and then finished using the two ceramics in my older Lansky set. Blade is in VG-10 steel. You can see it is taken to a pretty fine mirror finish on the bevels. Not perfect mirror, but pretty nice by the naked eye.
esC99yO.jpg

vahsmVd.jpg
Thanks !

Now THAT is a seriousl nail nick !
I like it .
 
Thanks !

Now THAT is a seriousl nail nick !
I like it .
That particular knife is a model called the 'Brute' from A.G. Russell. He produced several iterations of that model, the first one back in the 1970s. This one I think was produced in the 1990s, when I purchased it. DEEP hollow grind on a blade that's 3/16" thick at the spine. It's thick enough, that it has those deep nail nicks on both sides of the blade.

I earlier mentioned it was in VG-10. But I now think it was ATS-34. Two similar steels in many ways, at any rate.
 
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