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lansky vs. peanut
- Thread starter jvong
- Start date
buy a set of wheels and you can sharpen any size blade easily. i had a similar system but it was called an ez sharp. it had the clamp and the similar problem when it came to small blades. i had access to a mill so i modified mine by changing the angle cut on the clamp but i wouldnt suggest it to anyone since it can weaken the clamp if done wrong, plus i could always make a new one if i messed that one up. after getting my wheels i gave the ez sharp away to my cousin for his broadheads since it worked good on small short blades.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2007
- Messages
- 957
I put a 40 deg bevel on this little twerp with the Lansky. The rod contacts the head of the thumbscrew, but if I wanted to, I could flip the blade over and re-clamp. 
I have the same problem with my GATCO. The two clamping screws stick out on the same side so I do not do the narrower blades on the GATCO.
At lower angles I have found that I need to pay attention to the clamping to insure that I will not hit the thumbscrew. Even so I have noticed that the top of the nose of the clamp is getting machined down a bit.
I guess like has been mentioned you could clamp, work, unclamp, flip, clamp, repeat. I would probably just get a small bench stone or two and try it on that or use the stone from the Lansky as a bench stone. You can also try a larger angle. Generally I have been using the 19° setting for most of my sharpening. I have been going to the shallower angles for my kitchen cutlery.
I was sharpening two knives for a buddy with the GATCO. One is a custom made by a guy in Hibbing, MN and the other is a Buck 692. The custom had a funky convex bevel. It wasn't the same length or angle on both sides. He wanted me to match the angles on both. Neither had been sharpened befor and were rather dull. I was surprised after I sharpied the bevels and the Buck turned out right at 19°. The custom was a disappointing 25°. The Buck sharpened up nice and looked like It would work great. The custom sharpened OK. the angle was just not what I liked. The maker offers lifetime sharpening and I can see why with the convex profile and the funky grind. My buddy will hopefully be using them this weekend and told me he would let me know how they worked.
Even with larger blades it is not always a simple matter of clamping them up and putting stone to steel. Sometimes you have to think about it a bit.
GATCO clamp with stand
Lansky clamp
At lower angles I have found that I need to pay attention to the clamping to insure that I will not hit the thumbscrew. Even so I have noticed that the top of the nose of the clamp is getting machined down a bit.
I guess like has been mentioned you could clamp, work, unclamp, flip, clamp, repeat. I would probably just get a small bench stone or two and try it on that or use the stone from the Lansky as a bench stone. You can also try a larger angle. Generally I have been using the 19° setting for most of my sharpening. I have been going to the shallower angles for my kitchen cutlery.
I was sharpening two knives for a buddy with the GATCO. One is a custom made by a guy in Hibbing, MN and the other is a Buck 692. The custom had a funky convex bevel. It wasn't the same length or angle on both sides. He wanted me to match the angles on both. Neither had been sharpened befor and were rather dull. I was surprised after I sharpied the bevels and the Buck turned out right at 19°. The custom was a disappointing 25°. The Buck sharpened up nice and looked like It would work great. The custom sharpened OK. the angle was just not what I liked. The maker offers lifetime sharpening and I can see why with the convex profile and the funky grind. My buddy will hopefully be using them this weekend and told me he would let me know how they worked.
Even with larger blades it is not always a simple matter of clamping them up and putting stone to steel. Sometimes you have to think about it a bit.
GATCO clamp with stand
Lansky clamp
The lansky system is my second favorite method for sharpening next to freehand, but unfortunately I have had zero luck with it concerning very narrow and small pen type slipjoint blades.
To get a secure clamp on a peanut/pen blade, the clamp has to pretty much engulf almost the whole width of the blade, and even if you do get the blade situated in there, the blade usually slips and twists inside the clamp, or pops off altogether when you tighten it down. In my experience, the stone will remove more metal from the clamp and the screws than it will the small knife. Also, alot of times the bevel will be different for one side of the blade than the other due to slippage etc.
Sometimes getting everything situated for a small blade with the Lansky is impossible. For these little blades I usually just freehand them.
To get a secure clamp on a peanut/pen blade, the clamp has to pretty much engulf almost the whole width of the blade, and even if you do get the blade situated in there, the blade usually slips and twists inside the clamp, or pops off altogether when you tighten it down. In my experience, the stone will remove more metal from the clamp and the screws than it will the small knife. Also, alot of times the bevel will be different for one side of the blade than the other due to slippage etc.
Sometimes getting everything situated for a small blade with the Lansky is impossible. For these little blades I usually just freehand them.
Clamp the handle - and let the blade point out beside the clamps mouth.
Clamp it so the blade is a little diagonal with the tip pointing backwards against the loops the guide rod slides thru. In that way you still have the loops in the middle of the blade.
This is possible to do with thin handles.
If the handle is "just a little" thicker, change to longer screws.
Thomas
Clamp it so the blade is a little diagonal with the tip pointing backwards against the loops the guide rod slides thru. In that way you still have the loops in the middle of the blade.
This is possible to do with thin handles.
If the handle is "just a little" thicker, change to longer screws.
Thomas