lanyard hole troubles

J. Neilson

J. Neilson

Joined
Feb 6, 2001
Messages
3,621
I've got a knife finished that now needs a lanyard hole.
:rolleyes:
Since just rying to drill a hole through the entire handle would bow the bit and oversize the hole when it hits the tang...I was thinking about drilling a smaller hole and with a rotary tool and diamond bit, trying to grind out enough space in the tang to accept the lanyard tubing, then drilling the handle slabes to the appropriate diameter. Does this sound like the way to go (as opposed to making a whole new knife) or is there another way?
 
I have a 1/4" carbide tipped bit. It is one of the fluted varieties. It will go through hardened steel with no problem.

Craig
 
I would definitely agree the carbide drill bit would be my preferred method of drilling the hole through hardened steel.

That said what you suggested doing should work, I've had to do it before and done exactly that, just check your hole size often. :footinmou

Sean
 
Originally posted by J. Neilson
I've got a knife finished that now needs a lanyard hole.
:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

did you forget to add holes for it when you made it J...:confused:
or did someone change their mind :D
is it full hardened?
 
J,
Make the hole thru the tang just large enough for the lanyard then drill the ones for the tubing in from each side and glue them in place. In other words, butt the tubing up against the tang from both sides.
 
There's a neat idea Kit. I'd just have to make sure and not blunder the opposing holes.

Dan, it was one of those last minute changes, though I had been catching up on orders and had it done already.
:mad:

This part of the tang isn't hard (high carbon) so the cobalt bits I normally use should go right through, no problem.

I figured someone on the forum would know a cool trick like like using a certain method of hammering to drive the lanyard tubing through the wood and tang in one shot.
:D ;) :D
OK, I've watched too many movies. I think I need a drink.
 
Well im glad to hear someone else use that beautiful word..cobalt.. hey J. let us know how it goes..Im interested to know if this can be done.
 
the biggest problem is when you brake through the other
side of the tang,, it's going to push the scale pretty hard.
( you always get that dimple started there)
and you'll get the normal rounding at the hole edge.
I was thinking in the same lines as Kit, that way you'll
save the problem of the round up pushing on the scale too..

you can always bite the bullet and make another
you can always sell that one with out the hole..
then you know it will be OK. :)
 
One possibility is that you could use a smaller diameter carbide drill, say 3/16", to drill thru the scales and tang, then go back and drill just the scales with a 1/4" bit, then use 1/4 thong tubing on either side. This would help with the problem of the hole becoming too large or the drill bit blowing out the scale on the opposite side.

I used this method on a knfe someone else made and it worked very well.
 
J, your tang end is not hardened, as you stated. I would use HSS or cobalt at slow speed and do as Kit suggested (save the carbide bits for when really needed). I would go all the way through with it so I would have a pilot hole on the other scale to line up with for my 1/4 lanyard hole.

RL
 
another way J is
if you just have wood on there and nothing else that will melt at low heat and no peened pins
you can put it in the oven at about 175 deg
for about an hour and take it a part if you used epoxy.
then clean up with acetone , then do the job and reassemble.
 
J. bring it with you I have 30-06 with armor piercing rounds. You hold in front of your head to make sure it goes thru straight.:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
not a 6" hole IG.1/4":rolleyes: :eek: :D

btw do they still allow guns in Mass?:confused:


that must be your skunk shooter :eek:
 
yes and leaves a 6" hole on the other end it if hits any bone..
my 243 with the 12 power scope,
uses the same casing but pushs a 90 grain lead.:D
you can a pick a tick off a Deer at 500 yds with it. :yawn:
 
Dan, the .243 is a necked down .308, the necked dpown 30-06 is the 25-06. I have used both of these rounds over the last 30 years. An 80 grain FMJ would drill a nice 1/4" hole.

The .243 is a great round-I have killed six elk with it, but the 25-06 is boss.
 
really I under stood that the 30-06 and the 308 was the same shell??
the last three white tail buck I got with the 243 I took the heart out
good thing I don't like the hearts.
have you tied the 270 ??
 
The 308 is aprox., 1/2" shorter than the 06. It was developed after WWII to take advantage of better propellents, and get the same muzzle velocity/muzzle energy from a shorter cartridge. it also meant that a lighter rifle with more capacity and a shorter action could be developed(M14), to replace the M1 Garand.

The 270 now, is basically a 30-06 necked down to .27. Nice round. :D
 
Well if J. needs a bigger hole I have my 45-70 1881 Trapdoor. May have to make a hole on both sides doing it this way.
 
interesting I never thought about the length??

Mike don't they have the competition 243 at 8MM
and I'm thinking the one I have is 6MM? I'll have to go
check Now...:confused: one of the guys I keep in touch with from my old ship,
has one I think?? the guy that razed him was a gunsmith
I think that was what he said or maybe he built it?:confused:
 
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