Lapping stone option

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maximus83

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Nov 7, 2011
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Would a 2-side 150/600 grit diamond stone make a good option for lapping water stones like the Nortons and Baryonyx AlOx stones?

I found an 8 x 2.5" stone with these specs on big river for $33, search "Sk11 diamond whetstone".
 
If you're going the made-in-China route with diamond plates, about $50 shipped can get you a whopping 12" circular diamond lapping disc on eBay. Makes lapping even large stones a cake walk, although from what I hear the old "float glass and loose grit" method is even faster and cheaper. $10 shipped glass "cutting board" off said big river site and a bag o' loose grit makes for a pretty cheap system, and from what I understand it takes a pretty long time before the glass goes out of true, especially if you manage the wear zones properly. When it eventually does, toss it in the recycling and get another cheap plate.
 
Yeah, obviously (I should hope!) one should use both sides before eventually recycling.
 
I use 60 or 80 grit loose silicon carbide mixed with dish soap and a big old Washita Arkansas stone for the backing plate. The big cut-off disks at HD work well for a lapping base too. Many people lap right on a smooth stretch of concrete.

I keep an 8" diameter 180 mesh stone handy for my waterstones - ran about $50.

The best idea is to learn to work the entire stone surface - this will not only greatly extended time between lapping, but minimize/negate any issues with edge geometry from low spots you might develop.
 
HH, your last point really helps and should be worked into a sharpening regiment.
I lap on concrete with slurry and it takes me a lot of work getting the India stone flat. DM
 
HeavyHanded said:
The best idea is to learn to work the entire stone surface - this will not only greatly extended time between lapping, but minimize/negate any issues with edge geometry from low spots you might develop.
Click to expand...

Yes this makes sense, I've been starting to consciously do this with the new water stones I have (with diamond stones, it didn't seem to matter as much). I do the shaping more toward the ends, and the sharpening more through the center area of the stone.
 
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