91a2jettavr6
Gold Member
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Sorry for the off-topic post but how the heck do I change from "registered user" to "gold member"? When I renewed my gold membership, "registered user" remained but is inaccurate.
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Large Sebenza25 vs Umnumzaan
- Thread starter Wolverine666
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I was referring to the fact that the 25 has a larger semi-circular cutout against a flat Ti lock bar, whereas the Zaan has a thinner strip of lockbar to engage that is pointed to a "V" at the top.
So on the 25, you push against a flat area to close the blade. On a Zaan, you push against a smaller, pointed surface with a slight milled depression in it. Much different.
Nothing against the Zaan, I have three of them and only one 25. But IMO the 25 closes easier by a slight margin is all.
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It's in Settings or Profile, and I believe Settings. I had the same issue. You change it yourself in your profile/settings area.
Sorry not more specific, honestly I cannot remember exactly how but dig around a little and you should see it.
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I understand about the Loctite now. You guys make good points there. Is it just a one time thing ? Do you have to completely take apart tbe knife (Seb25 and Umnum) in order to apply the Loctite to the pivot ?
That's the only thing that bugs me. I don't wanna take apart an expensive knife and not be able to put it back together the right way. I just don't want to screw it up. Maybe I should check YouTube for vids on that.
That's the only thing that bugs me. I don't wanna take apart an expensive knife and not be able to put it back together the right way. I just don't want to screw it up. Maybe I should check YouTube for vids on that.
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You only have to remove the male part of the pivot, the rest of the knife stays in situe. I only ever loctite the pivot on those "bath days" every few months at best. The purple loctite just stiffens the action rather than locking the threads anyway so there is little to have probelms with. 
It isn't hard to do. Some people use RED Loctite on the Seb 25's free-floating pivot, which will solve 99% of issues. I personally just find it a PITA compared to other model Sebenzas, which do not have this annoyance. It's a great knife either way, regardless of my personal unhappiness with that single component.
After using the Red, most people treat the pin like it is interference fit/welded and never remove it during a detail stripping. More or less, you want to be sure the straight portion of the 'D' pin makes contact with the blade and allows the blade to close without getting hung up on the pin. Playing with this with one handle slab off will best illustrate this portion.
For general usage on knives, I'm a big fan of VC3 because I like how it can be used many, many times over, is much easier to remove, and gives fantastic corrosion resistance in an area that is inherently prone to rust (Seb fittings are high-grade 4xx and 3xx surgical stainless, but still not rust-proof as the inner components often see a nasty and rust-friendly environment). I tend to use VC3 on most component fittings of knives. While CRK has noted Loctite is not needed for most of their components (exception being with the 25/Umnumzaan), I find VC3 to give more consistent performance on all knives, CRKs included. It stops pivot joint backing completely without creating a bond so strong that screws can be stripped (my complaint with both high and medium strength Loctite).
CRK also advocates the usage of grease...which I fully support and use on all knives. However, I use a ST Dupont Fluoro as it is cheap, non-toxic, and has a wide operating temp range. CRK Fluoro is great and may be very similar, but it's pricy and I've not been able to get a full sheet on specs like DuPoint Extreme Fluoro. The non-toxic component is big to me given I use folders for food prep, and it isn't hard for lube to wind up in food. For liquid lube, I use Eezox for the same reason and do not believe a better anti-rust treatment exists (it is superior IMO to even TuffGlide).
In sum, I would say that you don't need to worry about reassembly...you'll quickly master it if I can... Whichever model you like the most you will be able to adapt to and use proficiently. CRK operations are pretty easy and there is a big support group for any technical assistance. Calling them is also pretty easy as they are easy-going people for the most part, and tend to address issues quickly.
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Interesting. So does the Sebenza 21 (including the Starbenza) require Loctite too ?
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Nicely said, but I believe you meant to say "stop pin".
Might have confused some folks...
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I've also read about some people having Sebenza's handle screws loosening up. Is this common ?
I also use Eezox, but not on knives I use to cut food. I thought it isn t safe to ingest.
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No, it's not common at all, I have never seen it and only heard of it a couple of times and that was down to the knife being tinkered with. This is also a splendid point to bring up, the people that have problems with CRKs are more often than not the cause of said problem. 
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No, it's not common at all, I have never seen it and only heard of it a couple of times and that was down to the knife being tinkered with. This is also a splendid point to bring up, the people that have problems with CRKs are more often than not the cause of said problem.
Haha you are probably right about that.
Nicely said, but I believe you meant to say "stop pin".
Might have confused some folks...
facepalm for me! Sorry about that!
With most knives, you can have the pivot sometimes back out a little with tons and tons of continual usage. With CRKs, this is much rarer. With that said, the screws are still prone to corrosion and the insides of them are very prone depending upon usage as something such as salt from saltwater usage can get inside the screws, and not be easy to clean out. So I find that adding a product that aids corrosion resistance is really useful.
I am not sure if Loctite helps in that category or not, but the force required to remove most of the med and higher Loctite formulations are more than what I want on a CRK or most folders. The other issue with most threadlockers is that they form a hard bond, usually acting as an adhesive similar to glue. This is probably why CRK has advised against using Loctite except in a few scenarios. As Vibra-Tite VC3 forms a thick gel that does not dry, it is both reusable and easier to remove threads from (meaning no stripped screws or messed up hardware) and it is excellent at absorbing shock. With how it works, it also is very good for preventing rust and useful for any material screw/backing. So it's very popular within the knife community as it serves multiple purposes.
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I should have been more specific as I realized that sounds like I put Eezox on a blade and then use the blade to eat...I don't use it on the blade portions that will cut the actual food. I use it on pivots, lock faces, and other moving parts when there isn't an easy way to detail strip and grease each part, or it is on a steel like D2 which can tend to rust in areas which aren't easy to see (especially inside the thumb stud channels on BMs, for example). IIRC it has one long ingredient which is toxic, but the amount that is used on a knife is pretty low and most of it evaporates upon drying. So I suppose for Eezox a better classification would probably be lower toxicity over most petrol and certain silicone bases as what I said was really misleading. Sorry about that!