Larrin Thomas Santoku review

The grind lines are very close to being behind the handle slabs, but aren't quite. When my skill improves that will probably be where I put them.

As to edge chipping, this knife was used in a passaround as well as in a Bay area get together of Chef's knife enthusiasts. At the get together, the knife was used pretty hard in some chopping of various vegetables for most of the day. The knife did not have any visible chipping and still sliced paper very cleanly. Under magnification there was a very light amount of micro-chipping observed that was even across the edge. This knife was tempered at 300F, which while it has shown no problems with concrete floor tests or general cutting, under magnification showed micro-chipping in this fairly rough kitchen use. Since then I've moved moved my tempers to more of the 325-335F range, which gives a slight reduction in hardness but appears to have toughened up the edge enough that micro-chipping is not observed. I think that the 300F temper still could be optimal for some users (those that do not use heavy chopping when cutting), and even though micro-chipping was seen it still cut very well, you definitely couldn't tell it had micro-chipped without looking at the edge under magnification. It is my opinion that a CPM-154 or other higher carbide volume steel would have shown just as much micro-chipping even at a lower hardness.
 
Thom, where are the grind lines on the blade?

I feel bad for not knowing what you mean, me2. The tang is flush with the scales and I believe the believe the knife grind is a full-height flat with just a hint of convexing.
 
No microchipping on my watch, either. Just good cutting fun with that very nice AEB-L. I bet the heat treat was a PITA, though. I did put a few scratches in it with the scrotch brite side of a sponge, though, which made me feel pretty low. At least Thom put some nice D8XX scraches in it to make it his own after I screwed it up first. Anyway, for normal, non-slamming kitchen use the hardness/toughness seemd pretty darned good to me.

Mike

P.S.: Thom, how do I join the Hog of the Round Trough as well? I have been dreaming of joining more secret societies since I joined my fraternity in college. Would my official name be Mike Fatasswreck instead of Mike Cheshareck?
 
Anyway, for normal, non-slamming kitchen use the hardness/toughness seemd pretty darned good to me.

Mike
I assumed this would be the case but I am glad to hear it. For those that chop heavily a little more toughness is required, but from my testing it seems that for average users it shouldn't have any micro-chipping.
 
...I've moved moved my tempers to more of the 325-335F range, which gives a slight reduction in hardness but appears to have toughened up the edge enough that micro-chipping is not observed. I think that the 300F temper still could be optimal for some users (those that do not use heavy chopping when cutting), and even though micro-chipping was seen it still cut very well, you definitely couldn't tell it had micro-chipped without looking at the edge under magnification. It is my opinion that a CPM-154 or other higher carbide volume steel would have shown just as much micro-chipping even at a lower hardness.
Thanks Larrin, quite interesting information.

When increasing temp to the 325-335 range, where does the Rc land?
 
Hate to hijack this thread but a quick question for Larrin on steels for kitchen knives.

CPM 154 or S30V??

I know both aren't the most preferable but the lesser of two evils please.

Thanks Larrin.
 
CPM 154 or S30V??

On a kitchen knife such as a gyuto or santoku?! :eek:

do-not-want.jpg
 
S30V has greater corrosion resistance, wear resistance, toughness and edge stability than S30V. CPM-154 is more easily hardened to high hardnesses, and is quite a bit easier to sharpen. The decision depends on how important ease of sharpening is to you. This is ignoring reports of edge chipping and assumes the S30V is from a maker that has a good heat treat.
 
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