Latest acquisition - two Richards Wilcox grinding wheels

This is an awesome thread! You've got some great stuff to work with, Brent. Can't wait to see your finished product.
 
bbforstr said:
Garry

That looks pretty much like my favorite one of the two wheels. The other is totally different and already broken.

Does yours have a set screw on the opposite side of the hollow shaft? I'm having a hard time getting the set screw tight enough to keep the wheel connected with the shaft. I might just need to clean it better. I'm kind of going slow to learn how these things are put together. This is turning into one of the funnest restorations ever. I hope I don't screw something up.

I really appreciate your advice. I think it will go a long way in preventing me from learning the hard way. I already told my boss I' taking tomorrow off to work on these things. He's pretty cool about my hobbies. He has some of his own.

Thanks again.
Brent
Click to expand...

Cool boss for sure.
The set screw is on the opposite side of the nut. Its in the picture I posted at 9:25 PM. I could see it in the fourth picture you posted on the green grinder.
Square head of coarse. I am thinking the reason you can't get yours tight is that your not lined up with the flat spot on the axle. That axle that goes through should have a flat spot in it. Or maybe even a hole.

FortyTwoBlades, I have heard of the evils of the water that you speak of. Heard they can sag also. I have not seen it first hand but I take no chances. I actually have a natural sand stone rigged up to a electric motor. That one has a trough. It is always empty. Never have used it I just bought it for the wheel.
 
Hooked up the drive chains this morning. I thought I was ready to start sharpening. The clevis that hooks to the bearing is catching on the nut of the main shaft. It still works but it looks like I will need to fabricate some steel connecting rods. I don't think the chains were original anyway.

image_zps1972b69c.jpg


image_zpsd604ef3e.jpg


I was hoping to stay with the original parts. The other wheel has rods but they are too long. It must have been mounted on wood blocks or something in its former life.
 
garry3 said:
FortyTwoBlades, I have heard of the evils of the water that you speak of. Heard they can sag also. I have not seen it first hand but I take no chances. I actually have a natural sand stone rigged up to a electric motor. That one has a trough. It is always empty. Never have used it I just bought it for the wheel.
Click to expand...

Not sure quite what you mean by sagging but if you mean the stone developing a dip in it then yes--that's a function of the zone that sat immersed growing soft and wearing faster than the rest of the stone.

Trough style stones work great--you just have to make sure you drain the water if putting it away for a while, as well as to prevent buildup of fines that will prevent the stone from cutting its finest.

I'd be absolutely lost without mine at this point. Given that I paid under $200 for the unit shipped to my door I've been very pleased with the performance and the extra range of functions I'm able to accomplish when grinding/sharpening my various hand tools.
 
Finally got it all together. I replaced,the chains with 1/4" pin stock. I threaded both ends and used square nuts to hold it all together. There is only one hexagonal nut on the whole wheel.

Pin stock

image_zps3187dd8d.jpg



Bent and threaded

image_zps469a419d.jpg


Nearly complete

image_zps3177e666.jpg



Now I need to figure out how to add a drip cup. Any ideas would be appreciated. This thing really spins now. Once you get it going, it keeps going for a minute or two.
 
The wife thought the seat was too cold.

image_zpse2d2fd90.jpg


Cost of two wheels $150. Diesel to transport $120.50. Grease and liquid wrench $10. Gear puller $30. 6 hours of labor, 10 hours of driving $?.

A lifetime of sharpening fun pricele$$.

I decided not to try centering the wheel. Too much risk of breaking something. At the speed it's turning, it's easy to keep the piece firmly on the stone. Still looking for ideas for a drip cup.

Lubed up the bearings on the other wheel and put it back together. It spins nicely now but not quite as good as the other one. It needs shorter connecting rods to work properly.

image_zps814d6592.jpg



I spent about 1/2 hour with a star dresser trying to clean up one bothersome chip on the three inch wheel. It would probably take another hour to get rid of it.

image_zps7c39ca49.jpg

image_zps9bf40715.jpg


This has been one fun project.:thumbup:

Paint will happen in the spring when things are a little warmer.
 
Last edited:
bbforstr said:
...Still looking for ideas for a drip cup.
Click to expand...

I have one made by Cleveland Quarries, similar to the picture below, and the drip cup is still intact.

The cone is attached to a steel arm (with nut and bolt) which is attached to the tubular frame (with nut and bolt through a hole drilled horizontally through the frame). There is a bit of something like steel wool inside the point of the cone to slow down the water drips. The steel arm can be bent to adjust it. The details on Sheet 2 below show a different attachment method.

US2213065-0.png


US2213065-1.png
 
Steve

The photos didn't come through. I'll probably end up fabricating something but not sure how to attach it.
 
 
Thanks Steve.

That is really cool to see the patent info. That should help with attaching some kind of drip cup. I was thinking I might fabricate something out of galvanized flashing with a cone shape similar to the patent drawings. Either steel wool like you mentioned in an earlier post or maybe a small valve to regulate water flow. I can't wait to start using this thing. The little bit I did use it, I was really impressed with the sharpness of the tool in only a minute or two.

Later
Brent
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top