Latest and... well, not greatest, but it's sharp!

7

724wd

Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
435
This is my bull shark design, 6" OAL, 2.5" blade. False edge isn't false at all, it's a hair splitter, top and bottom. Zebra bolsters with mosaic pin, white vulc. liners, lignum vitae scales with hidden stainless screw/pins. 154CM, HT by Paul Bos to 60-61. pocket sheath with no loop. it arrived at the customer's house today, now on it's way as a birthday gift.

the scale on the other side is much more figured, but there is a flaw in my liner execution. and those probably aren't dust specks on the blade, they're probably scratches. I'm still working on my finishing skills.

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That looks great. Great tactical knife without looking like G.I. Joe.

Love the contrasting handle and the blade shape. Very nice.

Charlie
 
Pretty darn nice, I'd say. Like the no pins look. and the contrasting woods.
Sharpening the top edge kind of makes it a dagger in the eyes of the law,but that doesn't effect the fact that it's a great knife and sheath.
 
Very nice. The contrasting woods and large mosaic pin really set the knife off.
With the knife being extremely sharp on both edges; did you take this into account when making the sheath?
I ask because I am getting ready to make a sheath for a knife with similar edge geometry and I am concerned that the sharpened false edge will be riding against a single layer of leather.

Fred
 
to combat the sharp edges, i used a rather thick piece of leather as a welt. that, coupled with this knife most likely seeing little use should prevent any cut-through. also, in my letter that goes out with the knife i made sure to recommend caution when sheathing and unsheathing. if there ever is a problem, i also put in my letter that i will repair damage.
 
Gorgeous knife! Congratulations! I would be grateful to see a diagram of how the hidden screw/pins system works to affix the scales, an edgewise schematic, perhaps, if that would not be revealing a trade secret. Thanks!!
 
well, i'll see what i can do on a diagram, but in the meantime, maybe i can explain it satisfactorily...

i cut an oversize channel or holes in the backside of the scale that match with the holes in the tang. it's also a plus if you can undercut them a bit, or make the holes in the liner smaller than the holes in the scale to create an undercut. then i cut a stainless bolt or threaded rod longer than the thickness on the tang, but not so long it wont allow the scales to seat. a generous amount of epoxy to fill all the holes, coat the stainless threaded rods and squeeze it all together.

the reason for the mosaic pin is twofold... one is decoration, the other is for perfect alignment of the scales. without the tight fitting mosaic, the scales are free to squirm around and not line up.

make sense?
 
Many thanks! I am going to ponder the description. If you come up with a how-to sketch, I'd love to see it. Great-looking knife! What kind of epoxy?
 
now that is a very impressive bit of work. I am glad you went with leather for the sheath, and not kydex.
 
Top notch mate like the smooth looking finish on the handle and bolsters, pin sets it off too.
 
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