Latest Bowie Completed

With this knife the tension of excitement must have increased progressively with each new part/step like the crescendo of numbness experienced by the Lotto winner scanning across his line of numbers to find each new digit coming up perfect.

I expect to see this bowie again come December.

Is the African Blackwood stabilized?

ken
 
Thanks Ken!

The blackwood is not stabilized. My personal preference is to use blackwood that isn't stabilized....I've found that the stabilizing leaves African Blackwood dull and somewhat "hazy" after final finishing, where as the unstabilized variety has more of a "glow".

See it come December? What am I missing there? :confused:
 
Thanks Ken!

The blackwood is not stabilized. My personal preference is to use blackwood that isn't stabilized....I've found that the stabilizing leaves African Blackwood dull and somewhat "hazy" after final finishing, where as the unstabilized variety has more of a "glow".

See it come December? What am I missing there? :confused:

Hi Ed.
Ken's probably referring to our annual "best bowie" thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609101

Your point on African Blackwood interest me as I've never been a fan of it because though it very often looks great in photos, some blackwood handles I have examined look "lifeless or dull". So it's good to know it's perhaps not the material but the stabilization process. It no doubt looks gorgeous on your piece.
 
Fantastic bowie Ed. Iam curious as to why you chose titanium for the fittings . I'll bet slotting it was a real job!
 
Roger and Kevin: Thanks for the info! I was completely lost with the reference to December.

John: The titanium fittings were the Client's idea....and your right they certainly were not easy to deal with.
 
The overall finish was also at the client's request. He wanted something "nice" but with a somewhat subdued appearance.

Awesome execution of "less is more". Elegant but understated. The handle and sheath look like they're made of the same stuff. Of course I know that they aren't, it's just a very nice flow.
 
Mr. Caffrey, simply beautiful of course. One question, what technique are you using to creat that texture in the handle? I'm looking to doing something similar for a project and have never had that type of texturing explained in any detail.

Thank you for sharing your knife and your knowledge.
 
Will: Here's how I do the carving/texturing.

I finish the overall profile of the handle or whatever it is that I'm going to carve/texture. Next, using a colored pencil or grease pencil, I freehand draw (usually a bunch of times before I'm happy with it) the design I want. I then go to my GRS 850 rotary tool, and using a 1mm round carbide burr I gently outline the design. I will go over the outline several times, increasing the depth of the cut with each lite pass. Once the outline is complete, I use riffler files (in the cut(s) I made with the burr) to ensure the lines are smooth and clean. Once that is done, I will usually lightly buff everything just to make sure I don't have any stray dull spots or marks where I might have slipped while filing.

I tend to remove the background so that its slightly lower than the surrounds material (the area that will later be textured). For this, I use an "el-cheapo" harbor freight pencil die grinder, with a carbide burr. Once all the background is removed to a fairly even depth, I then look it over once again, to ensure there are not stray marks or scratches on the item. Once thats taken care of, its time to complete the texturing. For this its back to the 850 rotary tool and, depending on how fine or course I want the texture to be, I use a larger or smaller round carbide burr. This is where some massive time consumption comes in. I'm looking through a lighted mangnifier lens, and its just repeated touches on the surface you want textured. The texturing of the blackwood alone, on that bowie handle, comsumed about 4 hours.

Theres a degree of learning curve involved, but for the most part its just taking your time and being patient.

One final thing to watch....once you THINK your done, move to a strong light source and rotate the item and look at it closely...most of the time you will see what appear as shiny spots, or something that looks like "glitter" on the item. Those are tiny spots that you missed with the burr, and you need to go back over them. If you leave them, it looks like a poor texturing job, and in the right light it is very eveident.

The item needs to be COMPLETELY finished before you carve or texture....you don't want to get near a buffer after the texturing is done...all it will do is load up the texture and you'll never get it cleaned out. A hint.....If your going to wax anything that has been textured, try something like Turtlewax "Ice" liquid wax....it doesn't dry to a haze, and leaves no chalky residue when dried.
 
Thank you for the thorough explanation, Looks like I need some smaller burrs :D

Simply beautiful work although there's nothing simple about it.
 
That is GORGEOUS Ed,I Love the texturing on handles like this..

OK since nobody is going to ask I guess I will,Did you texture the sheath in the same manner as you did the handle?

Bruce
 
Thanks again for all the kind words!

Bruce: I do the texturing on the sheaths the same way as the handles....the leather just requires a lighter touch and a lot more brushing to get rid of all the dust so you can see what your doing.
 
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