Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2000
- Messages
- 12,554
The paint gets burned ONTO the metal, not into.
It will scrape off.
It will scrape off.
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That's what I'm talking about with electroetching. My question was asking how well the black nail polish would burn away leaving clean metal to etch.Paint some black nail polish on the blade. Laser your logo on the nail polish to burn away the logo. Wipe off with alcohol then etch.
Yeah, the wattage is another favored method of misleading advertising.Drew, you've responded with exactly what I thought that it required the "paint" that gets discolored and "burnt" into the metal to give the final image. Atomstack site kept talking about the tiny .06mm (<.001") spot and how much better the cutting/burning was. For the use of making stencil it seems like the 10 watt laser doesn't really offer much advantage over the 5 watt laser?
In post #9 an ""80 watt" was asked about - that's the power drawn by the power supply, NOT the power of the laser. The laser is more like 10 watts..... maybe. All depending on the efficiency of the system. The 50 and 60 watt lasers are spec'd as a 10 watt laser.
This week I will try this with nail polish and laser, looks like a great solution, at least for me . I do that once with nail polish and letters scratched by hand. I got what I scratchedThat looks pretty good - I'm assuming the etch should turn out good?
Is the desire to make stencils so you don't have to use the laser each time? I would think cutout stencils wouldn't be as good as developed stencils due to any "islands" need to make letters, etc look good. Burning the paint on blade to make stencil wouldn't have this problem.
Thanks again for keeping us updated on how well the laser works - and it looks pretty good. Looking forward to seeing the etched design.
If I can make reusable stencils even better . The advantage of using the laser is that your stencil can be different every time. You can put your makers mark and if you want a different serial number on each blade The type of material can be different each time . like 440c etc etc. It just seems to open things up a bit for more designsThat looks pretty good - I'm assuming the etch should turn out good?
Is the desire to make stencils so you don't have to use the laser each time? I would think cutout stencils wouldn't be as good as developed stencils due to any "islands" need to make letters, etc look good. Burning the paint on blade to make stencil wouldn't have this problem.
Thanks again for keeping us updated on how well the laser works - and it looks pretty good. Looking forward to seeing the etched design.
I have had some great results using Rust-oleum 2x paint. I put 2 coats on the area of the blade where I want my image. Obviously, this is done after hand sanding and before the scales on epoxied. Then use the laser to burn in the image (just removes the paint). Finally electroetch the image in.Nope, not confused. I know the type you're talking about and have looked at that before but wasn't very interested in that. It just burns some paint to the surface. The process I'm interested is what Scott is talking about where the image is etched in using electroetching same as with stencils.