Leaf spring knife or knives

Martin,
Good for you on getting your life in order and doing what you love.
The artist part of you may well blend nicely with knifemaking. There is always the design and aesthetics part, but you may eventually move into scrimshaw and engraving. These can be more lucrative than making knives.

To get started, read the sticky "How to Instructions for Making a Knife". It pretty well covers the process and the things you need to start with. You don't need or even want an anvil or big tools to start with. All you need is a couple files, a clamp or two, and a stack of sandpaper ( all covered in the sticky). I will gladly send you some steel and a block of handle material to get started on.

Eventually, if the knife bug bites, you will want a 2X72" belt grinder and a few other power tools like a drill press. There are lots of people who make wonderful knives with little else.
 
Thanks Stacy I will take you up on your offer how do you want to get in touch with me ? The email is shandazzle78@gmail.com we could get together this way and I can give you my address. I know that it is not necessary for an anvil or power hammer but let's be real I'm a guy and I am into tools as well but I do eventually what an anvil though. I am greatful that you would be willing to offer me some materials they will be put to great use that I can assure you . I am currently working on a couple designs as soon as I get something I will post it .I will not regards to the stickys some of these are locked so I can't view them I don't know if the ones you directed me to are locked but I will take a look.
Oh and I am looking at 2x72 grinders holy they are expensive but I may be able to save money utilizing my local scrap yard for that no weld grinder build, although I am not sure how much I will save but I can start picking up the steel for the build,then find someone to share there plans for it with me.there are smaller grinders but I am not sure if it would be even worth spending the money on them . Besides the amount they cost I think I could get the materials needed for the build.I have an old table saw not sure about the motor speed but I know it works. Anyway.

Thanks for the pointers and advice,
Sincerely, Martin
 
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You know if you need some known steel to start out with I have lots of drop offs from cutting up my 15n20 orders and I would be more then happy to send you some. It's .090 thick and hardened to around 43rc. But I could cut a few strips off and soften them up for you befor poping them in the mail. I had a ton of help when I first started out making knives and it's the least I can do to return to the community. I also have some handle material that I can send with it.
 
If you email me the drawing I will post it for you
JTcustomKnives(at)gmail.com
 
Here is your sketch

Photo%20Jul%2023%2C%2017%2016%2045.jpg
 
GrenfellsBrutalForge said:
...you will have gotten to practice your forging/ grinding skills. That right there is time well spent, and that experience is something that money can't buy

-Colin
Click to expand...

+1
for many, knowing that a screw up = $0 in materials allows for a lot of fun practice. More often than not, ending with a usable product. Can't go wrong with that.
I've broken down old 3/4" tractor froes and damn if that doesn't give you a good work out! Look at it this way, no gym membership required. The key is to work them bright red and not get disappointed with the first few heats. Once they start moving, it's all good from there.
Cheers.
 
JTknives said:
Here is your sketch

Photo%20Jul%2023%2C%2017%2016%2045.jpg
Click to expand...

The blade to handle proportions are good. The knife and blade look a tad wide at nearly 1.75". I would suggest around 1.25 to 1.5" blade width.

There are several larger issues with your sketch:
1) The handle has the finger indents wrong. The one at the front should be about 1/3 the length, and the second part the other 2/3 toward the butt.
2) Start with a simple edge shape. A basic straight edge with a normal rise to the point. Look at some drop point hunter blades for how this works. The round belly edge as drawn will not cut well for most tasks.
3) The file work or saw teeth aren't needed, and are a more advanced task. Best to leave them for a future knife.
4) The dip in the spine is better left off and preferably should be a slight outward curve, not a dip.
5) The gut hook choil is a terrible idea. If it is just a bottle opened, it is still a bad idea. You don't need it to open a bottle. If it is just a plain choil, it is in the wrong place and the wrong shape.
 
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