Learned something about my Sebenza today.

I just bought some Sentry Solutions, Tuf-Glide to try out. Has anyone else tried it and if so, how did it work??
 
I just bought some Sentry Solutions, Tuf-Glide to try out. Has anyone else tried it and if so, how did it work??

I've used it since I ran out of the CRK fluorinated grease... it works fine as an all purpose protectant/lubricant (but doesn't excel at either IMO).
 
I don't have experience with tuff-glide, but I have heard it is good.

I do use CLP on my firearms, and I really like that stuff - I may try it on a knife to see how it does, since it really works on the guns.

I also have tried froglube grease, it is ok, smells good and does not wash off easily, plus it is food safe.

I typically just keep my knives clean, and any lubricant (within reason) that is handy will do at the time.

Oil the joints!

best

mqqn
 
Here's the thing about CRK fluorinated grease. 90% of the time someone complains about it not being as smooth as other greases or oils, it's due to improper application. I have an Insingo Sebenza that isn't even fully broken in yet, and the blade flies open, and falls on it's own when the lockbar is disengaged. If there's too much grease, it will be rough. If there is too little, it will be rough.

The "right" amount of grease is just enough so that the washers and pivot bushing stay sandwiched together. This is very, very little grease. With enough to sandwich, and a tiny bit extra in the perforations of the washers, you should have flawlessly smooth action.

Now, this isn't to say that you're using "the wrong stuff" on yours, or that you shouldn't use the oil you're using, or that you're a naysayer of CRK or whatever. Just wanted to share my thoughts in case anyone is frustrated with the CRK grease not performing like they expect it to.

OP, if you already knew all of this, you have my sincere apologies and know that I'm not trying to ruffle your feathers at all!
 
Smoother? No. Faster? Sure. The grease is a lubricant and it stays put but it has such a thick viscosity that it has more resistance and "stiction" when first starting to move the blade. Especially if you polished your washers which eliminates the micro channels that carry that lube. Still on a sebbie i prefer the grease because speed isnt my priority and it stays ther till the next cleaning. I used to thin it out a little with some tuff glide and i found it was the best of both worlds. But its cool that you found something you like.
 
Here's the thing about CRK fluorinated grease. 90% of the time someone complains about it not being as smooth as other greases or oils, it's due to improper application. I have an Insingo Sebenza that isn't even fully broken in yet, and the blade flies open, and falls on it's own when the lockbar is disengaged. If there's too much grease, it will be rough. If there is too little, it will be rough.

The "right" amount of grease is just enough so that the washers and pivot bushing stay sandwiched together. This is very, very little grease. With enough to sandwich, and a tiny bit extra in the perforations of the washers, you should have flawlessly smooth action.

Now, this isn't to say that you're using "the wrong stuff" on yours, or that you shouldn't use the oil you're using, or that you're a naysayer of CRK or whatever. Just wanted to share my thoughts in case anyone is frustrated with the CRK grease not performing like they expect it to.

OP, if you already knew all of this, you have my sincere apologies and know that I'm not trying to ruffle your feathers at all!
Not bothering me at all!
Actually helped me.
I was...um... " painting" the washers and blade tang with it. Definitely too much.
I'll try it next cleaning.
Thanks!
 
Try using the Reeve-grease (liberally applied) with a smidge of CLP added before assembly on each side of the washers. Makes it very smooth with that heavy "bank vault" feel to me. I find that it's tough for 5 minutes of opening/closing while dabbing the extra out of the pivot area, but then something magical happens. 'Tis very nice.
 
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