Learning about steels

J

jmar595

Joined
Apr 1, 2007
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Where is a good source, or even book, to learn about steels. I hear a bunch of different kinds on here and have no idea about their composition, pros, cons, or anything. I think this is a very important part of becoming a knifemaker.
 
Do a google search for knife steel composition or identifying knife steel. You can also call Admiral Steel and ask them the differences between each steel. Also do a search on here and I know you will find what you are looking for.
 
To break it down into a pair of paragraphs:

Basic groups (this is how we classify it in Russia):

- simple carbon/low alloys: O1, W1-W2, 10**, where ** is the percentage of carbon. 1095 will have .95% or thereabouts. These are easy to work with, etch nicely and easily, but these rust like crazy . Not a good choice for a working knife if the owner is sloppy/lazy. HT is very easy and very forgiving

- alloyed steels: A2, D2 . These have addntl elements added to carbon, to improve various aspects of steel (toughness, abrasion resistance). D2 stands out with 12% Cr. 13% Cr is considered to be stainless, so D2 is pretty darn close. HT is tougher, as inert atmosphere is required.

- highly alloyed: mostly tool steels, used in metalworking, main feature being "red hardness" - ability to cut other metals when in red hot state. .These steels are not frequently used by KMs. Example: M2 . HT is a b*tch


As of the steels above rust rather easily, there is :

- stainless. These all have in excess of 13% of Cr added, to make it rust proof. 440 family (of which only 440C is KM-worthy), ATS-34, 154C(P)M .
HT is comparable to A2/D2. If you want your knife to be maintenance free, these are the only choice.

Now, for quite some time folx been trying to come up with even
better knife steels: S30, S90 etc, including particle-variety (PM). These are for an accomplished KM who knows exactly why he needs these.

If you plan on forging your blades, there are other steels you need to be aware of - 5**** family , but for removal method, that's about it :)
 
Machinery's Handbook has information about the different types of steel and a whole lot of other stuff. Its worth getting a copy.
 
It's just going to take some reading, read the Goddard book, look at the Engnath site, check the forums, etc. Decide how you want to approach your heat treating, pick a steel and use it until you're comfortable. By that time you'll probably already know a lot about other steels.

Check out http://www.engnath.com, this is one of the best sites out there for basic info. I've read it dozens of times by now. There is a very good section on steels and although the site and info is a bit old, it is still quite relevent. Folks who know me probably think I'm a broken record by now, but the info from Bob Engnath is top notch.
 
The two books that will be your friend for life (and teach you more than you will be able to absorb) are:
METALLURGY THEORY and PRACTICE ,by Dell K. Allen
and
The HEAT TREATERS GUIDE, by ASM International (pricey, but worth every penny)
Stacy
 
Thank you Rashid for the break down, that helps put things in prospective. I will look into the Machinery handbook. AcridSaint, that site helps id alot of types of steel and the practical knifemaking uses, thank you. Bladsmth I will look for those books, thank you all for the help. Does anyone know what type of steel a lawnmower blade might be made of?
 
I used the lawnmower blade because of Goddard's recommendation in the $50 knife shop, I had also heard many other people say it will make a decent blade. I am goin to get some good steel for my next knife and that is all I will use after, but this is the first of many. Thank u Chris I will look into getting those.
 
When Wayne wrote the $50 knife shop, lawnmowers were pushed by hand and had blades that were resharpened.They were usually a mid carbon steel somewhat like 5160.Thay were usually hardened. Today the term "lawn mower blade" can mean a lot of different types of steel. Now blades are made to bend easier (reducing risk of a blade breaking and sending flying metal....liability) Few make good knives, and knowing what you have is nearly impossible. Use a steel of known composition....1080,5160, O-1,etc. Knowing the use will not tell you the composition (file, lawn mower, crowbar.etc.)
Stacy
 
Jacob is right... I have seen in recent years some lawnmower blades that have been punched... similar to guilitining (Spelling?) which requires pretty soft steel such as mild steel. These steels have close to no carbon, and will never heat harden. An old file is a good bet for first attempt
 
Jmar595,

In my opinion, your time is too valuable to waste on metals of unknown quality and makeup. Carbon steel is quite inexpensive and easy to get. For example, Admiral Steel currently sells 3/16 X 1-1/4" X 60" hot rolled 1075/1080 (a good steel for beginners) for $12.80 (plus shipping). Even if you only get six knives out of it doing stock removal, you're only paying just over $2 per knife. If you're forging, you'd probably get more blades and the cost per blade would be next to nothing.

Save yourself some unnecessary headaches; use New and Known steels.
 
Chris Meyer said:
Download this eBook, Metallurgy of Steels for Bladesmiths and Others who heat treat and forge steel, and read it carefully. At the very least save a copy, as Dr. Verhoeven no longer has it posted on his website.

Also, Daniel Brandt's Metallurgy Fundamentals is a good book for beginners. Amazon want a fortune for the most recent version, but you can get an older version for under $4 at Abebooks.com
Click to expand...


Thanks for that link Chris, I didn't realize that book was taken down. Been meaning to actually read past the first 20 or 30 pages someday.
 
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