Learning curves with new equipment,very bad

Yes, thanks Kit. what a neat tool. From Mike's link I see there are manual and automatic versions.

How do you ensure that what you're grinding is perfectly flat? Do you have to make a few passes each side until you get a perfectly flat side?
 
Originally posted by pendentive
yes, I know what a surface grinder looks like, but can anyone explain how it grinds? Is it like a planer for metal?

Dan think of a bench grinder mounted to the head of a vertical
Milling machine. instead of the end-mill doing the cutting the grinding stone
does the cutting. I see you post the same time I did..
:D
 
The purpose of a surface grinder is to get both sides flat and parallel to each other. If the magnetic chuck is set up right and you use the method I pointed out earlier the workpiece will be flat on both sides and the sides will be parallel.
You need a surface plate and a surface or height gauge to check the work. A surface plate is a granite slab precision ground flat. There are different grades depending on how tight you need to hold your tolerances. Use a micrometer to measure for even thickness then a dial indicator mounted to a surface gauge or just use a height gauge on the suface plate to measure flatness.
You may have to grind the surface of the magnetic chuck to square it up to the rest of the machine. Thats if you want to maintain really fine tollerances or your parts are coming out tapered. A 36 or 40 grit stone is pretty standard on a surface grinder and .005" is a huge cut on alloy steel.

Tom
 
Originally posted by pendentive

How do you ensure that what you're grinding is perfectly flat? Do you have to make a few passes each side until you get a perfectly flat side?

I think that is the Zen part that they are talking about! :)
 
Yeah...I was just wondering how hard it was to get it perfectly flat. Seems like a good amount of work.

Do you do an entire bar/sheet at a time? or just certain parts already ground out?
 
Dan
it's not that bad just a few trials and oppps I shouldn't done that's ..
grind all or just parts
you can do it either way it depends on what you want to do with the extra steel later
 
Darnit....

Seems like I really missed out then...


I passed up an offer on a surface grinder in the $200 range - needed a new motor, poss. some tune-up, etc.

I balked because I was concerned I might not use it much...:(
 
Originally posted by pendentive
Darnit....

Seems like I really missed out then...


I passed up an offer on a surface grinder in the $200 range - needed a new motor, poss. some tune-up, etc.

I balked because I was concerned I might not use it much...:(

Dan:eek: :eek: we'er here for you just ask:footinmou :D
for a real one but old that works $900.00 is a good number for it
 
Thanks for the lemon and salt, Dan....:eek:

:p
 
This thread is turning out to be really cool and informative.
The new 46 grit wheel I put on mine worked out excelently,I was even able to quickly rub the grinder marks off using a piece of 400 grit paper (that is what I start my hand rubbing with after grinding)I was only trying to flatten the ricasso areaand part of the tang so I could square the shoulders on the milling machine,thus making sure of a square fit up with the guard and handle.Now I will have to try it with some Damascus and then try my hand at a folder...
Thanks for all the great advice everyone,I need it all the time.
Bruce
 
I'm looking for a surface grinder at the moment. I'm hoping to get a 6x18 with hydraulic control, but am looking for the right deal on th eright machine. I haven'r run one in 20 years but I think there's some errors posted above. A couple folks mentioned taking cuts of only a half thousandth at a time and grinding a blade in two passes. From what I remember from school and a few months working in a grinding room, you should easily be able to take a .003 - .005 cut on a properly set up machine without burning, but you have to take cuts in small increments on the Y axis. IIRC, on a machine with automatic feeds, you set the rate of cross travel feed rate and the depth of the cut and let the machine do the rest. It feeds the table over a little bit at a time in the Y axis while the table moves back and forth on the X axis bringing the workpiece under the wheel. You generally never take a cut using the full witdth of the face of the wheel on a single cut. That seems like a sure way to burn the steel and bog the motor and would elplain why you can only take a .0005 at a time. These same principals should hold true on a manual machine as well. Surface grinding is a slow and tedious process but can yield tremendous precision when done correctly.

John
 
John,
I agree with what you just said. On annealed steel I often cut .003+ but the carriage is only indexing .010 +/-. It's also pumping alot of Rustlik 500W, flushing away grit and cooling it.
With hardened parts normally .0005 is about all I'll take off at a time and I just do that to keep from hand sanding so much :)

It also depends alot on if you are grinding one blade or a 6x18 table full.
 
Hi Bruce E,

I was grinding the other day and Bruce B. gave me advice that I think would work well in any situation, "Slower Harry, Slower"

Harry
 
I take about 20% of the wheel at about .0007 to .001
I can do it that way and take the time in depth
or take the time in indexing I don't see a lot of difference
I also see the use of the side of the wheel as suggested here.
but it still will round off and you'll be facing with the wheel
by the time you're across it anyway

just throwing some flax in. :D
 
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