Learning Folders

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
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Could someone point me to the best reading material for making folders? Thinking about slowly working on one for the next few weeks, (more likely months), just to see if I'm capable. As I've always been into folders more than fixed blades to begin with. So being able to build one would be a dream come true. :)

Just looking for basics. Just a little confused on hardware sizes and what will work and not work, since if one thing is off, the entire knife is scrap lol. I just want to research before I plunge into it.
 
I'm looking to start with liner locks.

All the "Tutorials" I'm finding are great, they just dont explain ANY of the hardware. Or what is even needed. So far in a shopping cart I have a few standoffs, a barrel pivot assembly, detent balls, a thumbstud, & phos bronze washers.....

That and some kydex for sheaths is only $30 something, but I'm still hesitant on ordering as I'm not 100% that's everything I need or if its even correct...
 
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None of them are from this forum, but the sources that helped get me started were:

Terry Knipschield'd WIP is basically what got me to do a folder:
http://www.ramanon.com/topic/32039-...itintro-and-a-bit-o-philosophy/?hl=liner+lock

Tim Troyer's video series is also a really helpful step-by-step:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZNnPupKVG7JEUTN0GWoSX-OqpF8rQQb1

Ray Roger's tutorial is pretty well known and useful:
http://www.rayrogers.com/ftutorial.htm

Don't be intimidated, my second knife was a liner lock I made a year ago :D
If you're talking hardware, I use 1/8" dowel pins for the stop pin and two to get my back spacer to be consistent, 3 0-80 flat head screws to hold the liners and backspacer together, and 2-56 screws to hold the scales/bolsters on, and a 1/16" detent ball. The pivot is 1/8" and I use 0.005" thick washers (though the thinness causes more problems than it solves). This is for a 1/8" thick ~3" long blade, so if you're thinking bigger, you can always scale things up.
 
NeilJBorja said:
None of them are from this forum, but the sources that helped get me started were:

Terry Knipschield'd WIP is basically what got me to do a folder:
http://www.ramanon.com/topic/32039-...itintro-and-a-bit-o-philosophy/?hl=liner+lock

Tim Troyer's video series is also a really helpful step-by-step:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZNnPupKVG7JEUTN0GWoSX-OqpF8rQQb1

Ray Roger's tutorial is pretty well known and useful:
http://www.rayrogers.com/ftutorial.htm

Don't be intimidated, my second knife was a liner lock I made a year ago :D
If you're talking hardware, I use 1/8" dowel pins for the stop pin and two to get my back spacer to be consistent, 3 0-80 flat head screws to hold the liners and backspacer together, and 2-56 screws to hold the scales/bolsters on, and a 1/16" detent ball. The pivot is 1/8" and I use 0.005" thick washers (though the thinness causes more problems than it solves). This is for a 1/8" thick ~3" long blade, so if you're thinking bigger, you can always scale things up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! Ill check those out.
 
Another element is the size of drill bits required to give you clearance for tapping those small screws. You will need a reamer to match the size of your selected pivot since the drill bit will be a bit smaller in diameter and the reamer will help to square up the holes in your blade as well as handle/bolster material. Standoffs are not a necessity since you can make a back spacer from random scrap material and flat sand it to width to match the blade and washers width. When using standoffs you will have to tolerance their width individually which usually requires a fixture for flat sanding on a surface block. Just a few little things to consider that make the difference when you get to final assembly to make sure everything lines up straight and square.
 
Hey Bob.....That is a great book right there and I totally spaced it out....Glad you added that!!!
 
Mastersmith Mike Vagnino, in California, sells a pamphlet step by step on making a liner lock, for someone who has never done it.
Great resource, cheap, and it got me up and running in style.
You can find him through his hosted forum here, or through the American Bladesmiths Society website.
BTW, if you buy it, he's wonderful at answering any questions that come up. For someone like me who is kind of out in the sticks, it was perfect.
 
Wow. Thanks for all the info guys. I just couldn't find much detailed tutorials Googling it.

Busto said:
Another element is the size of drill bits required to give you clearance for tapping those small screws. You will need a reamer to match the size of your selected pivot since the drill bit will be a bit smaller in diameter and the reamer will help to square up the holes in your blade as well as handle/bolster material. Standoffs are not a necessity since you can make a back spacer from random scrap material and flat sand it to width to match the blade and washers width. When using standoffs you will have to tolerance their width individually which usually requires a fixture for flat sanding on a surface block. Just a few little things to consider that make the difference when you get to final assembly to make sure everything lines up straight and square.
Click to expand...

I was actually sort of thinking of using some of the ton of micarta scraps I have laying around for back spacers/standoffs. Possibly just making a back spacer to run the entire back side of the handle. To act as spacers and blade stop.
 
Never overlook scrap it has many uses and one is back spacer material. I would not let the cutting edge of the blade hit the back spacer you would be better served using 1/8" dowel pin placed strategically to stop the blade. This is the part about mocking up the design where you decide where that pin should be located.
 
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