Learning how to grind all over again!!!

scottickes

scottickes

Joined
Oct 27, 2005
Messages
2,527
Well, I finally got a chance to play with the KMG. What have a learned? I've learned that the difference between a 1 x 30 and a KMG is that with the KMG you can really f*@$ up a piece of steel in a hurry!

I started out with a little hunter that I'd forged a while back. It's now a paring knife! It's also in my pile of "what do I do with it now" knife shaped objects. The most unfortunate part is that I thought it was forged from a 52100 roller, so it's not that big of a loss. WRONG!! It was forged from a billet of my raindrop damascus. CRAP!

I'm now working on a big bowie that I forged. I double checked it first to make sure that it wasn't damascus. I'll get it, but I expect to make quite a few mistakes for a while.

By the way, I really like the grinder!! It will just take some getting used to.

Ickie
 
sorry about the damascus. It seems like microwaving an egg; its so fast it can turn to rubber, but with lots of skill it can be quite nice.
 
Me thinks I would try the 'big bowie idea,,,and hope for a hunter.

Look at it this way, who said: 'Lest thee want a blade to win, forge it thick and grind it thin'?

First impressions, the KGM everything you expected?
 
Wecome to the world of the BIG BOYS TOYS. Things happen when you start using something new. But you will get on to it in time. Good to see you get one for the shop. Have a great day. And be safe --------:thumbup:
 
CrowValleyForge said:
Me thinks I would try the 'big bowie idea,,,and hope for a hunter.

Look at it this way, who said: 'Lest thee want a blade to win, forge it thick and grind it thin'?

First impressions, the KGM everything you expected?
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Even more than I expected. I love it!
 
Hey, bud. Metal eater huh. Something I did for a while was to use a finer belt for a bit. Gave me an idea on how to hold the steel to the machine with out making it totally dissapear. You got a great machine there especially with the variable speed. Enjoy.
 
im just glad i wasn't the only one to fubar a few blades learning to use that beast. i just remember what a another knife maker told me " there are no mistakes in knife making, only design modifications " :)
 
lots of good comments in the posts here!

Thoroughly enjoyable....

But Docdredd....it may be no errors, just redesign....but not to go larger:D

Scott, enjoy that new "finger print...or is that finger-tip remover".....variable speed is one of the best decisions on that new grinder.....
 
Why don't you jsut send it to me, i'll take good care of it for you:D.



Congrats on the new grinder:).
 
Now Scott.......did you go the el cheapo route and pass on buying the variable speed model? tsk, tsk:mad: My experience with my VS KMG is that it made my ilfe SO much easier.
 
I'd grab a few sections of mild bar for grinding practice. A few things to note:

- You'll need MUCH less pressure on the blade
- Pull the tip off of the belt when it's about halfway across. The 2" wide belt will eat those thin sections faster since it's wider.
- Slow speed until you're used to it
- Practice and enjoy!

-d

P.S. One more note...get some practice in before I send you that newbie billet! :)
 
The funny thing is you probably haven't even begun to see how fast it will cut. I did pretty much the same thing switching from an underpowered grinder to my first belt grinder. Thought it was smoking fast before I'd even learned how hard I could lean on it. Really is a whole different animal than a 1x30 or 4x36 :D
 
Reminds me of the first time I turned on my Bader BIII. Without variable speed, and with the standard drive pulley, that sucker was spinning about 5500 rpm! Talk about intimidating for a newbie! Once I got the pulley that slows it down to around 3000, I was feeling much better. :)
 
jdm61 said:
Now Scott.......did you go the el cheapo route and pass on buying the variable speed model? tsk, tsk:mad: My experience with my VS KMG is that it made my ilfe SO much easier.
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Nope. It has a 2 HP motor with a VFD on it. It's just a learning process, thats all.

Ickie
 
deker said:
I'd grab a few sections of mild bar for grinding practice. A few things to note:

- You'll need MUCH less pressure on the blade
- Pull the tip off of the belt when it's about halfway across. The 2" wide belt will eat those thin sections faster since it's wider.
- Slow speed until you're used to it
- Practice and enjoy!

-d

P.S. One more note...get some practice in before I send you that newbie billet! :)
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I'm not a grinder, I'm a forger for the newbie project! So you don't have to worry about me mucking it up!!

Ickie
 
Well, I got in some grinding time today.

I flat ground a damascus hunter. It turned out well.

I then worked on a big 52100 bowie. Flat grind also. It too, turned out well.

Then I decided to hollow grind a damascus hunter. Well, it's now a long skinny camp kitchen knife. Or maybe a really big steak knife.

On the two flat grinds, I didn't do a bevel at the ricasso, so my ricasso on the first two is tapered from top to bottom. Makes the guard work a little more difficult, but I don't have to worry about setting the bevel.

I really got to figure out how to make the bevels look the same though.

How do you guys get the bevel correct? What I did on the hollow grind was to start the hollow grind with a 60 grit belt. Then I went to a 220 grit with it hanging over the edge of the contact wheel, but couldn't get them to look the same. Am I missing something?

Ickie
 
Scott,
I can't take credit for this advice because I read it here:

1. I am sure you have one side that is harder for you to grind than the other... Do that side first. it will be much easier for you to match up that side while working on the side that is easier for you.

2. Go to Lowes and steal a bunch of their paint stirring sticks. They are a real PITA to grind, but they are REALLY cheap, and the practice comes fast, and once you can grind matching bevels on a paint stirring stick you can tackle anything.

The first comment is more of a bandaid IMO. The second will give you the practice of the repetitive movement you need.

Oh yeah almost forgot #3.... Only do flat grinds. This will ensure that you have no problem with holow grinds!:D:D
Matt
 
mdoyle said:
Scott,


Oh yeah almost forgot #3.... Only do flat grinds. This will ensure that you have no problem with holow grinds!:D:D
Matt
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Well, this one needs work. I want to have flat and parallel ricassos from time to time also. Hollow grinding isn't the issue, it's the bevel. I can't get it right on flat grinds either. I think I'll take the paint stick advice and practice for a while, before I muck up any more good forged blades.

Ickie
 
Or you can do what I've been doing, I've done so few blades so far that I just spend an inordinate amount of time hand sanding to get things to match up >_< This weekend I've got over 20 hours into my xmass exchange knife, with most of that hand sanding and hand rubbing to match everything on both sides. Sure, not efficient, but it works for now =P

*ducks because his advise sucks*

Actually what I've also been doing is in addition to running my grinder (coote) as slow as I possibly can is, I loosened up the belt from the motor to the grinder a lot so that it doesnt take a lot of pressure to stop the grinder belt. This keeps me from pushing too hard and has helped me go slower so I make less mistakes.
 
Justin.Mercier said:
Or you can do what I've been doing, I've done so few blades so far that I just spend an inordinate amount of time hand sanding to get things to match up >_< This weekend I've got over 20 hours into my xmass exchange knife, with most of that hand sanding and hand rubbing to match everything on both sides. Sure, not efficient, but it works for now =P
QUOTE]

Hand sanding? I stopped doing that a longggggggg time ago.

What I did do was get a small round file out and straightened them up, but I'd rather just practice until I get it right.

Ickie
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