Learning the PM2 in S110V

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fivesense

Joined
Jun 5, 2017
Messages
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I received my Blurple PM2 in S110V today- my first experience with this steel.

The knife itself is gorgeous, and the action, even for a brand new out-of-the-box knife, is smooth and fast.

As I have no previous experience with S110V, I've noticed some interesting (to me) visual differences to the S30V with which I'm more familiar. The Blurple model blade edge is pretty uneven across the length of the blade. I noticed some very slight micro chips in the edge too, and I was observing with the naked eye, not a magnifying glass.

Overall, the S110V seems more "saw-toothy" at the micro level. The knife is sharp as can be, murdering paper with straight cuts, s-cuts, etc...

I've read a lot of mixed impressions on the S110V, mostly very favorable. Again, with no previous experience with S110V, I'm excited to learn more about it.

(What is the easiest way to upload images from my computer? I can't seem to find an easy way to do it)
 
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  • start PhotoBucket account
  • upload photo to Bucket
  • wait until it loads
  • fight your way through the relentless popups and diversions (all part of “The Experience”).
  • Click on the photo
  • Look to the right of the photo for a list titled “Share This Photo”
  • Click on “IMG” button
This basically is the equivalent of copying the photo
Paste into your text on Blade Forums where ever you want the photo to appear.

Click on "Post Your Reply"
Your photo should be visible in your text AFTER clicking on "Post Your Reply".

PS: pay for a membership on Blade Forums and things will get easier than that; you can store photos here.
 
fivesense said:
I've read a lot of mixed impressions on the S110V, mostly very favorable. Again, with no previous experience with S110V, I'm excited to learn more about it.
Click to expand...

A lot of the negative was from me. I used to call S110V "dullsquick). Mine did. I got a lemon. Later I got a gem. I have changed my tune.

One thing to know about S110V : Diamonds are your best friend.
I hate diamond stones. To sharpen S110V I had to embrase diamonds.
Diamonds are scratchy and leave an inelegant edge.
Diamonds make my S110V cut right.
A truce of sorts.
 
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Wowbagger said:
A lot of the negative was from me. I used to call S110V "dullsquick). Mine did. I got a lemon. Later I got a gem. I have changed my tune.

One thing to know about S110V : Diamonds are your best friend.
I hate diamond stones. To sharpen S110V I had to embrase diamonds. They are scratchy and uncomfortable . . . they make my S110V cut right.
A truce of sorts.
Click to expand...
I've got some whetstones (1000, 3000, 6000) and the Spyderco Sharpmaker. What diamond sharpener do you recommend? And on your gem, did you find the edge to be chippy and saw-toothy? I know that is somewhat a characteristic of S110V and contributes to the slicing capability.

My copy of the PM2 in S110V is really sharp, even after I muddled through a little edging on the Sharpmaker stones.
 
fivesense said:
What diamond sharpener do you recommend?
Click to expand...

What I use is not the best. I have been using the
DMT Deluxe Aligner Kit plus some extra stones from them ordered separately for a finer more "polished" edge.
The small stones on the upper left shown here.

They basically suck. Can do without the round holes for this application though they serve a purpose for other things. I use the stones hand held or double back taped into my Edge Pro Apex on a blank insert that is normally used to put adhesive backed sharpening film on. Not the best set up.

Better is to get stones with no round holes similar to my larger stones shown in the above photo. They make smaller stones like that that can be clamped directly into my Edge Pro Apex but I haven't purchased them yet.

PS: I was able to get mirror polished, fine, hair whittling edges on my original lemon using the Edge Pro Shapton stones but the edge failed early. These stones were not sharpening the Vanadium carbides but just pushing the softer matrix around (for lack of better explanation).

The diamonds are able to abrade, shape and polish the vanadium carbides and that makes for a better edge all around.

fivesense said:
And on your gem, did you find the edge to be chippy and saw-toothy?
Click to expand...
NOT chippy at all. The edge has durability and good integrity over long term cutting.

Saw toothy yes but that is now determined by the grit size of the diamond plates you select.
I still prefer a more polished edge for the things I cut everyday at work so I take the edge to 8000 DMT diamond which is the flesh colored little stone on the upper left in the photo.
 
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Wowbagger said:
What I use is not the best. I have been using the
DMT Deluxe Aligner Kit plus some extra stones from them ordered separately for a finer more "polished" edge.
The small stones on the upper left shown here.

They basically suck. Can do without the round holes for this application though they serve a purpose for other things. I use the stones hand held or double back taped into my Edge Pro Apex on a blank insert that is normally used to put adhesive backed sharpening film on. Not the best set up.

Better is to get stones with no round holes similar to my larger stones shown in the above photo. They make smaller stones like that that can be clamped directly into my Edge Pro Apex but I haven't purchased them yet.

PS: I was able to get mirror polished, fine, hair whittling edges on my original lemon using the Edge Pro Shapton stones but the edge failed early. These stones were not sharpening the Vanadium carbides but just pushing the softer matrix around (for lack of better explanation).

The diamonds are able to abrade, shape and polish the vanadium carbides and that makes for a better edge all around.


NOT chippy at all. The edge has durability and good integrity over long term cutting.

Saw toothy yes but that is now determined by the grit size of the diamond plates you select.
I still prefer a more polished edge for the things I cut everyday at work so I take the edge to 8000 DMT diamond.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the information- lots of good leads for me here.

I might be misusing the term "chippy." I think the edge looks more like a micro-saw rather than "chippy."
 
fivesense said:
I might be misusing the term "chippy." I think the edge looks more like a micro-saw rather than "chippy."
Click to expand...
My lemon, when I drew the edge across my finger nail as if cutting the tip of my finger off starting on the nail side, I could feel distinct notches in the edge. What I used to imagine was the carbides falling out and leaving a hollow. That was probably not accurate but anyway . . . I felt distinct notches in the blade after fairly light and careful trimming of hard rubber products.

My new knife the edge was used for two weeks and there is zero notching. The edge feels smooth and glides and feels consistent for the length of the edge. If I were to start cutting dirty carpeting I predict the edge would chip some but cutting the hard rubber things have been going very well in deed.

If I were to cut rope I would go toothy; a proven fact it cuts rope better when toothy.
For me a polished bevel as well as a polished edge apex for a push cut is superior for my application.
PS: cutting the same little chips of rubber from blocks of hard rubber with my lemon the experience, in one day, deteriorated from good or excellent to unacceptable and infuriating.

 
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Chris "Anagarika" said:
Wowbagger Wowbagger ,

Please explain further the 'infuriating' part ... I'd like to learn from your experience what's best for S110V.
Click to expand...

I knew that was too strong a word when I used it.
It sure flowed nice though didn't it ?
Or maybe it was cliche . . .

I am reading a Hunter S. Thompson biog and he said : I'm very much into rhythm writing in a musical sense. I like gibberish, if it sings.

I'm not calling what I do writing just that it may have leaned toward gibberish.

Also as far as I can tell the negative experience I had with the first blade is very rare. The second example I got was by no means infuriating in any shape or form.
For best results though stick to diamond for sharpening at least until you verify that the particular knife you have is capable or high performance that is long term edge durability. Then experiment with sharpening on more traditional stones but even then it is folly to use much else other than silicon carbide. DISCLAIMER : I have very little experience with silicon carbide.

Infuriating : hmmmm . . . well when one has a "super steel" blade that started the day as literally hair whittling and not too far into the day the edge won't catch on the material well enough to start a controlled trim cut and needs to be angled in to dig in and then during the trim it just pops the curl off and starts to slide uncontrollably requiring another dig in to start cutting. And when the other EDC in my pocket, a "mere", "inferior", AUS8 steel or 440C would cut much better and more predictably for two or three days before deteriorating noticeably and then do it MUCH more gradually . . . that is . . . well . . . lets substitute the word puzzling.

PS: I will try to find a thread here that I am thinking of that is super at discussing this topic.
 
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Wowbagger said:
PS: I will try to find a thread here that I am thinking of that is super at discussing this topic.
Click to expand...
Here is one thread I had in mind

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-high-hardness-and-wear-resistant-steels.1442439/page-8

Here is another I came across before my time here; looks good though

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-s110v-questions.1174910/#post-13454612

Here is a very long thread with much about S110V and how to bring out it’s best.

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/...utting-5-8-rope.793481/page-157#post-17060498

OK I’m tired now. Have to do something else for a while. This is another good one.

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/hardness-and-abrasion-capability.1478806/page-2

Worth listening to Jason B., Bluntcut, DeadBoxHero and HeavyHanded . . . in no particular order they are all REALLY knowledgeable and have sunk a ton of money and time in learning this stuff. Also Ankerson but he is in another universe focusing mostly on rope cutting and the fine points of measuring the subtle differences in knives and documenting it in a repeatable scientific method. Really cuts out the BS pun intended.

SORRY IF I LEFT OUT OTHERS THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO MY ENJOYMENT OF THIS HOBBY.

me . . . I’m a woodworker who fools around with knives and can’t live without mirror polished hair whittling edges even though they may not be the best edge for all applications.

PS: I just realized my links drops you in odd spots in the threads. You will have to find the beginning on your own.
PPS: for me S110V is not the ultimate steel. I prefer M4 and M390 for the finer "working" edge I get. However I have much more respect now than I had for the ability of S110V to hold a decent working edge, even longer than the above two high alloy steels.

Like fine wine that you don't have to throw away after a taste; each has it's high lights.
 
Wowbagger said:
Here is one thread I had in mind

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-high-hardness-and-wear-resistant-steels.1442439/page-8

Here is another I came across before my time here; looks good though

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-s110v-questions.1174910/#post-13454612

Here is a very long thread with much about S110V and how to bring out it’s best.

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/...utting-5-8-rope.793481/page-157#post-17060498

OK I’m tired now. Have to do something else for a while. This is another good one.

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/hardness-and-abrasion-capability.1478806/page-2

Worth listening to Jason B., Bluntcut, DeadBoxHero and HeavyHanded . . . in no particular order they are all REALLY knowledgeable and have sunk a ton of money and time in learning this stuff. Also Ankerson but he is in another universe focusing mostly on rope cutting and the fine points of measuring the subtle differences in knives and documenting it in a repeatable scientific method. Really cuts out the BS pun intended.

SORRY IF I LEFT OUT OTHERS THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO MY ENJOYMENT OF THIS HOBBY.

me . . . I’m a woodworker who fools around with knives and can’t live without mirror polished hair whittling edges even though they may not be the best edge for all applications.

PS: I just realized my links drops you in odd spots in the threads. You will have to find the beginning on your own.
PPS: for me S110V is not the ultimate steel. I prefer M4 and M390 for the finer "working" edge I get. However I have much more respect now than I had for the ability of S110V to hold a decent working edge, even longer than the above two high alloy steels.

Like fine wine that you don't have to throw away after a taste; each has it's high lights.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the links- great reading material for me!
 
Wowbagger,

Thanks. So it deteriorated fast in your use. Was it because of high polished?

And the people you mentioned. They are practically masters in this steel & sharpening stuff ...
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Wowbagger,

Thanks. So it deteriorated fast in your use. Was it because of high polished?

And the people you mentioned. They are practically masters in this steel & sharpening stuff ...
Click to expand...

No not because of high polish. I sharpened it toothy and alternated with polished; back and forth many times. As I said it was a lemon. I don't know what was wrong with it. At first, and until my last sharpening session with that ONE AND ONLY ONE BLADE, I thought it was too soft. After all the edge would break down and go dull in no time (a day). The last time I sharpened it proved to me that the steel was quite hard. How ? You may ask. All but my last sharpening was with an angle a degree or so steeper per side than the factory grind. It didn't take all that much effort and time to get shave sharp on toothy edges and hair whittling on polished edges and the wire edge would disappear fast and I liked that about the steel.
HOWEVER
On my last sharpening, before I returned the knife for factory evaluation, I sharpened the bevels back to the factory angle and to do that I had to abrade enough of those factory bevels to eliminate my one degree steeper "micro or secondary" bevels. This took quite a lot of time and effort because I was working a much wider surface. The Shapton glass stones in 120 and 220 took a beating wearing and or becoming glazed and requiring lapping on a diamond plate to get them fresh enough to start taking off significant blade material again.
At that point it was clear the blade was plenty tough and hard.
Was it too hard ? Maybe. The factory hardness tests say it was to spec.

The people I listed vary between what the British call keen amateurs on one hand (I love that) and on the other hand professionals who make at least part of their livelihood from sharpening other peoples edge tools.

We are lucky they bother to share their hard earned knowledge with us hobbyists.
 
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Thanks. I have only one M2 Blurple. Haven't gone that far in using & testing.

Edit to add:
Encouraged, I tried high grit worn DMT EEF. Not a complete mirror, some part middle of the bevel still bears the factory grind marks.
So far so good but yeah, it takes patience ;)

35533862416_b19c242841_b.jpg
 
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