Leather and Nickle Silver

[Mark Behnke]

I haven't worked out a retention method for NS one so decided to make a leather one.
What do you think?

Thanks for looking and tell me what you really think.

 

[Mark Behnke]

Here is a shot of the back,I soldered pins to the back of the front plates, drilled through the leather and back plate and peened the pins. Three on the tip.

 

[sheathmaker]

Nice looking sheath. Something you may want to try next time.....eliminate the two wedge strips in the welt and kind a force fit the first insertion. The leather will give enough to form fit over the blade and you will have fair retention with just blade contact. This will also reduce the thickness of the sheath by two full layers going from six to four counting the tag end of the loop. You may have to bend a very slight curve in the TOP NS fitting prior to glue up. I routinely use only a one layer welt on blades up to a full 1/4" thickness, which gives you about a 1/8" opening to start before the first insertion.

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

Thanks Paul,
I'm glad you commented on the welt thickness. I'm not happy with it, it's too thick for me to stitch, which I would have liked to have done.
I wasn't sure how to deal with the guard pushing the loop back. Smaller guard next time.

What I want to do is a "Tip and Throat" and this was my combination of a more conventional sheath, that you described, and my ideas not too well thought out.

I'm going to do one the way you suggest on the next one, and study the Tip and throat style further.

Thanks for taking the time to respond, it really helps, I've watched your "basic sheaths " video several times, and the way you use your space, and use a tool and return it to it's place, has totally changed the way I work, and improved it so much.
Thanks
Mark

 

[Dusty One]

Nice looking set................

 

[sheathmaker]

I wasn't sure how to deal with the guard pushing the loop back. Smaller guard next time.

Mark, the loop area will set to the guard. Take a little extra care with the first insertion so as to NOT scratch the leather with the guard (bend the loop back for clearance as you insert) and the loop will protrude around the guard and continue to do so with each insertion thereafter until the final set takes place. It's always a little scary at first until you gain confidence in the method. It also helps to insert the knife, dampen the area and let it dry with the knife inserted.

Also, since you are hand stitching, it would be perfectly acceptable to stitch between the NS fittings on both sides. The pins in the fittings will hold that area of the sheath quite well, and the area between would be more or less straight line stitching.

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

Thanks Dusty,

Paul, I saw this sheath you did after reading your first post, with your description and these pic's, I'm going to start another one today.


Thanks again for your help.

 

[sheathmaker]

Mark the picture of the back of the sheath, where you saw the one you posted shows fairly clearly the bulge on the back of the loop area where the leather molded around the bulk of the guard. That's what I was talking about. There is only a single welt in that sheath, plus the tag end of the loop.

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

Some very nice shaping on that loop, I would have never thought to do that.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...of-my-knives-would-look-in-a-Paul-Long-sheath...

 

[Mark Behnke]

I'm about half done, need to do the silver work, strap, and stitching, it's working out very well, better pic's tomorrow

 

[sheathmaker]

Your first sheath was just fine, Mark, but it will be interesting to hear your opinion when you compare the two side by side. This latest one is surely looking good!

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

Thought I'd finish today but still need to finish up the NS, and need to make a rivet for the strap, ran out of the little 2 piece type. I spent most of the day on the stitching, the tread is some old ,seems to be cotton that got waxed up and dyed with india ink. Drilled 3/64" holes then went through both sides with a diamond shaped awl I made out of a wood chisel, not happy with the way the stitching looks, but better thread and a little less wax I think would help.

The last sheath got the vigaroon, dyed this one and noticed when saddle soaping the dye would come off, it's old dye so that could be it, first time for me.

I haven't wet formed the loop yet because I wanted the pins in to hold the top near the throat. I have the feeling this should have been done sooner.

This one is much better Paul, anxious to finish and get the knife in for comparison.

 

[sheathmaker]

Mark, The fitting comes after the sheath is completed so you are NOT too late with that step. One word of caution. The first couple of insertions should be with the sheath completely dry! Bend the loop back gently for clearance for the guard for the first couple of insertions. If it's wet or damp the guard will really mark the inside of the loop. To wet form, insert the knife, then use a spray bottle or sponge and wet the area to be formed, then using hand pressure only, soft form to the curvature of the guard and then let it dry. You can use a hair dryer to accelerate the drying and this will harden it at the same time. Once it is dry it should hold the shape pretty well and insertion will be a snap from this point on.

This one looks better already. The stitching looks fine.

Good luck!

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

Thanks for the compliments and instruction Paul. I finished late today, about 6:30, again it took longer than I thought.

It turned out great but not without issues, pic's tomorrow, my new camera uses AA batterys which I wasn't aware of when I bought it so need to invest in rechargeables.

 

[Mark Behnke]

I like this one much better, it has a 1/2" welt that makes it wider, and I think more balanced. The knife fits much better and it was much easier to construct.
The throat and tip plates are too large, I think, and the one doesn't fit tight to the leather. Need to work that out on the next ones.
Also need to get some better leather, this a lower grade of 8-9 oz. with a loose back and it doesn't harden up too well, I bought it to practice on.

All in all i'm very pleased and much more confident, Thanks Paul for guiding me in the right direction.

One knife 3 sheaths, need to get busy on knives now, but almost enjoy sheaths more.

Feel free to comment, it helps.
Thanks for looking.

 

[sheathmaker]

I'm not a metalsmith, but perhaps you could "tap" fit the tip of the top metal chevron with a plastic or similar soft faced hammer and get enough give in the chevron to make the point lay down without distorting the piece. This should be done with knife in sheath and very careful tap blows. This one does look considerably better than the first, mainly because it's thinner and finished (stitching etc.)

Paul

 

[cbr900son]

Looks very good. You could try the knife in there and put a peice of cardboard over it and tap it so you dont mark the surface but get the force to bend the tip flatter.

 

[sheathmaker]

Mark, one last insignificant comment. Both your sheaths as photographed appear to be left hand sheaths. If that is the case then this comment is moot. If not then the retention strap should be reversed for a right hand. The tag end should point to the rear when worn.

Paul

 

[Mark Behnke]

I didn't know that. I was thinking if carried on the right, you would grab with your right hand and the thumb would release the snap. I've never carried a belt knife.
Does the snap face back so it doesn't get unsnaped if brushing against something?
Which way should the tab go on a sam brown?

Your comments are hardly insignificant, and hopefully you will continue:thumbup:

Mark

 

[sheathmaker]

Does the snap face back so it doesn't get unsnaped if brushing against something?
Which way should the tab go on a sam brown? Mark

!. Bingo!, that's the reason. You can unsnap with your right index finger, (if you are in that much of a hurry)

2. Tag end (pointed end) goes to the rear on both right and left, it's the same with either snaps or Sam Browne.

3. On a regular blade type sheath (bowie or fixed bade sheath) the retention strap can come from either side whether right or left hand sheath. The guard on the knife will dictate which side. If you have enough guard on the spine side of the blade then it is good to put it there. This eliminates the danger of accidentally cutting the strap when withdrawing the knife. If it is a single guard then you no longer have that option and it has to go on the edge side. In either case it will run diagonally from edge to near center, both snaps and Sam Browne.

Paul