Leather sheath repair

Henry Beige

Henry Beige

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Jun 1, 2015
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My Busse Crab Drop has sliced right through the side of its leather sheath. The way the edges lap over, it looks as if some kind of adhesive would close it up. Any advice on what would work, and what might make the most inconspicuous repair?
 
They make a specific version of Shoe Goo for boots and gloves, and it works on leather. It is specifically formulated so that it won't get hard and brittle in cold weather. Cold weather could be a problem with other adhesives. Shoe Goo is pretty tough stuff. But again, you'd want the boots and gloves version. It's not the same as the regular Shoo Goo.
 
Barge contact cement you can buy in a hardware store will bond leather very well. There are low voc options if the fumes bother you. I do agree with Gadsden. How and why did it happen? Is there a sheath design or manufacturing issue? This kind of thing commonly happens when there is no welt or inadequate welts to protect you and the sheath.
Randy
 
Not a problem with the welt. If the knife cocks just a little bit going into the sheath, it slices through the side. It took only half a dozen times out and into the sheath for the blade to come through. Even now that I am aware of it, it will sometimes extend the cut.
On second thought, maybe a thicker welt would keep the side of the sheath out of harm’s way.
0613F054-8413-4F49-BD04-7E6029A4F992.jpeg
 
Oof, maybe some liquid cyano acrylate glue. That looks like a spot that will probably get cut again and the CA glue cures into a pretty durable substance.
 
Henry Beige said:
Not a problem with the welt. If the knife cocks just a little bit going into the sheath, it slices through the side. It took only half a dozen times out and into the sheath for the blade to come through. Even now that I am aware of it, it will sometimes extend the cut.
On second thought, maybe a thicker welt would keep the side of the sheath out of harm’s way.
View attachment 2501249
Click to expand...
Wild. I don’t think I’ve seen that before.
Was the sheath wet formed ever?


You could undo the stitching on the welt, glue it with a small fabric patch behind the cut with some appropriately flexible adhesive, then stitch in a new thicker welt. Wet form the leather to ensure the knife doesn’t rotate as it goes in and out.
 
Actually, I’ve been thinking…
It could be possible that the original welt is too thick. A thinner welt would reduce the angle of incidence as the knife goes in.
 
Looks like a ‘one size fits many’ sheath.
If it were mine, I’d take the side of a plastic milk carton and make a liner.
Use a cereal box or Manila envelope to make a template. Trace the shape of the sheath on the folded paper , allow for the welt and cut it out.
Test fit and trim till you get it to fit.
Then open up the template and trace it onto the plastic milk jug, cut it out , slip it in the sheath and Bubba’s yo cuzzin.

It may take a couple tries but once you get it right you shouldn’t have to touch it again.
 
Ebbtide said:
Looks like a ‘one size fits many’ sheath.
If it were mine, I’d take the side of a plastic milk carton and make a liner.
Use a cereal box or Manila envelope to make a template. Trace the shape of the sheath on the folded paper , allow for the welt and cut it out.
Test fit and trim till you get it to fit.
Then open up the template and trace it onto the plastic milk jug, cut it out , slip it in the sheath and Bubba’s yo cuzzin.

It may take a couple tries but once you get it right you shouldn’t have to touch it again.
Click to expand...
That’s a very cool idea
 
The biggest problem is that the sheath does not fit the knife correctly. That's why the molding of the sheath does nothing but cause problems. I am continuously amazed at how many vintage knives with their rather flimsy sheaths have held up over the years. There are plenty of sheath makers on the forum that could provide a quality sheath.
 
You can fix it and refix it until you run out of adhesive or patience, or both and IT will continue to happen as long as the knife is cocked on reentry. I has estabished sort of a "track" from mouth to cut and it will follow that track every time UNLESS you very slowing and purposely insert it stright and not cocked or tilted. The only sure cure is a new sheath with maybe some modification to the design. You only have to forget one time and your are back to the sliced sheath. (This from personal experience.)

Edit to add: Fashioning a plastic liner....I'm sure soemeone has tried it but plastic from a milk bottle will be no match for a sharp blade cocked or canted on insertion. The EASE with which you cut it from the bottle should be your first clue that it won't stand up to a sharp blade.
 
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Echoing the above folks, I would just start over, when I have a sheath that goes sideways for one reason or another, what I do is slice that sheath in half and toss it. Slicing it in half prevents me from second guessing my decision to start over, once cut in half, it's really done ;)
G2
 
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