Leather strop theory on fixed angle systems

[Bronco]

I use a TSProf fixed angle sharpening system quite often for which I own several 1”x6” leather strop blanks. I also have a Klein magnetic angle finding cube which claims a resolution of 0.1 degrees.

Where do our esteemed sharpening gurus come down on the question of what angle to attempt with the strop relative to the angle that was used with all the other stones? Is it best to just try to replicate the angle used with all the other stones, or is there potentially a benefit to choosing a slightly higher or lower angle?

 

[Tensaw]

Good question. I use kangaroo strops on my K03 and set the angle the same as the diamond stones. I've tried angles a couple of tenths higher and lower but didn't think it was better.

 

[Gottagofishn]

I use a TSProf fixed angle sharpening system quite often for which I own several 1”x6” leather strop blanks. I also have a Klein magnetic angle finding cube which claims a resolution of 0.1 degrees.

Where do our esteemed sharpening gurus come down on the question of what angle to attempt with the strop relative to the angle that was used with all the other stones? Is it best to just try to replicate the angle used with all the other stones, or is there potentially a benefit to choosing a slightly higher or lower angle?

The late great Vadim Kraichuk from Australian Knife Grinders shows in his book “Knife Deburring “ that an elevated angle is most effective in Deburring positive burr steel. Sort of… there are many different types of steel and tempers. Most of them behave differently from each other when stropping. I use powered equipment to sharpen and strop but, I imagine the mechanics would be the same for burr removal for hand sharpening. There is a chart in the back of said book with optimum Deburring angles for many different steels.
If you haven’t read his book, you probably should. I had no idea burr formation and removal could be so complex.

I find an angle of +1.6 degrees pretty good at removing most burrs on positive burr steel. I always follow with a +.2 or .3 pass or two. Negative burr steels ( hard and/or brittle to the point that most or all of the burr breaks off as it is formed.) I usually strop at +.3 and finish at the exact angle.
There was a ton of trial and error settling on those numbers. Other angles can accelerate or slow burr removal depending on the steel and tempers. ( using Tormek’s aluminum oxide, finishing with 6 um diamonds on supersteel’s ).
The end result will get some pretty impressive Bess numbers…