Leather washer handle:USMC Ka Bar

F

Fatstrat

BANNED
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
58
I'm ready to put on the leather handle on a USMC Ka-Bar blade. This is new project w/a new unused Camillus blade I bought off ebay. And new leather washer, guard, pommel kit purchased from Cutco.
My question is, when glueing the leather washers on, when I get the last one in place, should they then be put under pressure in a clamp to hold the tightly together?
I previously reglued an old WW-2 vintage Ka Bar. It had a good blade, but pommel and tang end had been broken off and the leather washers were loose. Took it completely apart, cleaned it up and reground the tang end for another original pommel that I had. And put it back together. (Welded pommel on instead of pin). Didn't use a clamp on it, and IMO it still turned out great. Handle is very tight and hard.
But since everything on this one is new, I want to make sure I don't mess it up. Your advice appreciated.
 
The originals werent glued together, just held on with pressure between the guard and pommel. I imagine the originals had a rig to press them together firmly while the pommel was pinned or peened on.
 
Didn't know that. I had read the Northcoast leather handle tuitorial were he used deluted wood glue. And did the same. Don't think he used a clamp either.
 
I agree with, Mace. It won't take a whole lot more time to glue up the handle while you're doing it. I use barge leather cement for my stacked leather handles and 30 min epoxy on the tang.
If you have a flat pommel you can glue up your handle, epoxy on your pommel and clamp it all up in a modified qwik grip clamp. Let the whole thing dry then drill and pin the pommel, that is assuming you have a soft tang that you can drill. If not you'll have to anneal it before putting on the handle.
To modify the clamp, just cut a "u" shape in the end so that the blade can fit through and the guard can sit on the face of the clamp. This is assuming that your guard is soldered or pinned.
That's how I do it, I'm sure there are a thousand ways to do it though.
God bless,
Stitch
 
Glue, then clamp, then peen the end of the tang, if the tang is long enough. Also, as already stated, if you are going to peen the tang, make sure it is annealed.

I did one not too long ago, using a Mora blade, but I used epoxy for my glue. I'll see if I can round up the pictures.

2710706615_ca1a1ff131.jpg

2717527676_87bf2420a2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tips. My tang & pommel are predrilled for provided pin. But I intend to use JB (Quik) Weld as well to secure all. Also used JB Weld to secure guard. Have a brand new wood clamp that I plan to cut a slot in for the blade to fit thru while clamping.
Next Question:
What do you use to give the leather washers that reddish tint color finish?
 
The tang and the pommel are drilled? And you put a pin through it like you would a full exposed tang? Huh, never thought of doing it that way. Do you have to be real careful to compress the leather so the holes line up? That seems like it would be kinda difficult...

P.S. That picture above isn't quite finished, more sanding and burnishing was done after that pic.
 
stingray4540 said:
The tang and the pommel are drilled? And you put a pin through it like you would a full exposed tang? Huh, never thought of doing it that way. Do you have to be real careful to compress the leather so the holes line up? That seems like it would be kinda difficult...

P.S. That picture above isn't quite finished, more sanding and burnishing was done after that pic.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's how nearly all the USMC knives were made. (Some early ones had a screw on pommel).
The tang and pommel are pre-drilled from the factory. The interesting part is the pin. It isn't a full length pin than goes all way thru the pommel. It's actually 2 pins. One in pre-fitted into the pommel and goes sightly less than thru to the tang slot and is welded in place. And has a concave inner end.
The other longer pin w/one end pointed, goes into the empty pre-drilled hole on other side of pommel. And goes thru the hole in the tang into the small area left in other side of pommel. Them bottoms out into the concave inner end of other stationary pin. I assume it expands as it hits bottom and makes a tight fit.
This explains why it is nearly impooosible to remove the pommel off one of these old knives w/o breaking/cutting the tang.
 
I would stay away from any "quick" setting glue. It may take longer to cure, but trust me....it sure does suck when your knife handle isn't totaly done and your glue is setting.
For color you could use leather dye.
Mace
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top