Leather washer handle

[REK Knives]

Can anyone advise how to get the recessed cutouts dark, almost black like in this picture? Going for my first leather washer handle on a few usmc kabar styles soon and wasn't sure on this but would like to have the contrast...

Also, as far as making the cutouts nice and even - any recommendations? was going to stack them on a threaded rod, g-flex on each one and compress w/ nuts/washers. Then was going to chuck up the end of the rod and turn it against some cutting/grinding tool or something... thoughts?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Use smaller washers where the grooves will be. That will give you places to work the groove when shaping.

When the handle profile and grooves are shaped, dye the grooves black with leather dye before any dying ( or not) of the main handle. Edge coat dye is good for this task. Use a small brush and paint it in.

When the dye is dry in the grooves, finish the handle as desired.

 

[kuraki]

Or shape the handle before gluing, then pull it apart and bevel the mating edges of the two washers where you want the groove to be, then put back together and glue and you'll have a nice V groove where you want to shape the grooves.

 

[Hengelo_77]

If you epoxy leather on leather you will have a black line between them, not like the handle you've shown
If you stack the washers on a mandrel with leather glue you won't have the black lines.

If you want the black groves you could make them out of an other material like G10 or so

 

[REK Knives]

If you epoxy leather on leather you will have a black line between them, not like the handle you've shown
If you stack the washers on a mandrel with leather glue you won't have the black lines.

If you want the black groves you could make them out of an other material like G10 or so

Gotcha. Why would gflex make it black though, it dries on in a transparent sort of yellow...

What leather glue would you recommend?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The epoxy penetrates the leather and makes a harder area. This shows up as a darker line just like the harder wood shows up as a darker line in wood grain. The leather-weld doesn't really penetrate the leather much and is less noticeable.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I use this glue because we use it at work.
Any leather glue used by your local shoerepair guy should be good.
It can hold a leather sole under tention and wear without stiching.
Technique is important; rough up the leather so the glue can penetrate. Especially the smooth side, rough it up so the glue can penetrate (we use 24 grit belts I wouldn't go over 80)
Appy glue on both surfaces, let it dry and apply a 2nd coat of glue and let it dry again. Then heat it with a paintstripper (or hairdrier/oven), press together and apply pressure by hammering or screwing something down.

Make sure you line out the washes the way you want. All smooth sides up or all smooth sides down. One the wrong way around and you'll see the mistake forever.

 

[REK Knives]

The epoxy penetrates the leather and makes a harder area. This shows up as a darker line just like the harder wood shows up as a darker line in wood grain. The leather-weld doesn't really penetrate the leather much and is less noticeable.

Thanks Stacy. I was also planning on finishing w/ a carnauba based wax or linseed oil - any recommendations? This should give it that wet/darker look too right?

I use this glue because we use it at work.
Any leather glue used by your local shoerepair guy should be good.
It can hold a leather sole under tention and wear without stiching.
Technique is important; rough up the leather so the glue can penetrate. Especially the smooth side, rough it up so the glue can penetrate (we use 24 grit belts I wouldn't go over 80)
Appy glue on both surfaces, let it dry and apply a 2nd coat of glue and let it dry again. Then heat it with a paintstripper (or hairdrier/oven), press together and apply pressure by hammering or screwing something down.

Make sure you line out the washes the way you want. All smooth sides up or all smooth sides down. One the wrong way around and you'll see the mistake forever.

Thanks for that and for the tips!

 

[Hengelo_77]

wax!

 

[REK Knives]

Ok so I have the washers cured, glued, and stacked on a mandrel. I ended up using weldwood contact Cement but it did leave the black lines. Should I dye the washers now or can I just oil them prior to buffing the wax in? Or is the oil/wax combo not good?

What about boot polish? I just don't want to screw this up at this point!

 

[daizee]

Ka-bar sells a rebuild kit for that very handle. Full-diameter washers, spacers. All pre-punched for a tang.
I bought two for future projects. Costs about the same as a stick of micarta.

 

[Hengelo_77]

you can dye or leave the colour natural.
You can use many natural leather finishes on that handle.
If the boot polish is natural coloured it can be done

If you don't want those black lines, use leather glue on your next handle. That stays flexible after curing and leaves no black lines