Let's hear your Thoughts & Experiences on CPM 3V
- Thread starter Daniel Koster
- Start date
t1mpani
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2002
- Messages
- 5,417
It's another form of controlled oxidation, just resulting in a reddish brown versus blue/black finish. This isn't my picture so I'll link to it but it shows a sword with a browned pommel/guard.
http://forums.swordforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74060&d=1207768461
http://forums.swordforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74060&d=1207768461
Browning is a controlled oxidation similar to bluing though usually not phosphoric acid based. It is often a better coating for rougher finishes. It often requires more maintenance; but, it is quite attractive when it's done right. See: http://www.artmetal.com/brambush/forum/bramyak2/messages/225.html
for how to do this on a piece of metal already rusted. The real trick is to purposely oxidize the finish, by controlling the process you can get even results.
Dan,
I checked my supplies and I have enough for several rifles. This will give me a chance to finish up a Mauser I'm building for the fire department. The oven that I have set up will only process pieces about 10 -11" long. I'll have to assemble a larger one if the length is longer. You can send more than one piece if you want; code them and I can do a blind comparison. I'll discuss finish prep when I see what you send.
for how to do this on a piece of metal already rusted. The real trick is to purposely oxidize the finish, by controlling the process you can get even results.
Dan,
I checked my supplies and I have enough for several rifles. This will give me a chance to finish up a Mauser I'm building for the fire department. The oven that I have set up will only process pieces about 10 -11" long. I'll have to assemble a larger one if the length is longer. You can send more than one piece if you want; code them and I can do a blind comparison. I'll discuss finish prep when I see what you send.
I have been using a White Wing that Bailey Bradshaw made for me . It has had more then five years of being an EDC . It has a 2.75" blade of .80 on the back. It will cut outsized items for the blade size and still remain sharp. The profile is still pretty much the same . I have several others that Bailey made in folders. I have a couple of Fermans. I would guess 8-9 in all.
I have cut up some wild boars with them , and also with a Cook 90V 3.625" blade hunter.
Bailey knows quit a bit about 3V and would be a source for information. I believe he uses diamond belts to get the blade to a reasonable finish.
As far as field use 3V will just keep going, as will 90V . I believe 3V is tougher in thinner blades which makes cutting seem easier. I am not sure that I have seen any blade of similar geometry cut and work really hard in thin sections. This would include some forged blades.
I have seen 5160 forged blades do extreme work if the heat treatment was very good . j. Neilson does a very good job on 5160 as well as Tai Goo .
I still love forged blades , but 3V on a good design will do all that can be asked of a knife. Forging does not limit design . For example socket handles , those would have to be machined.
Floyd
I have cut up some wild boars with them , and also with a Cook 90V 3.625" blade hunter.
Bailey knows quit a bit about 3V and would be a source for information. I believe he uses diamond belts to get the blade to a reasonable finish.
As far as field use 3V will just keep going, as will 90V . I believe 3V is tougher in thinner blades which makes cutting seem easier. I am not sure that I have seen any blade of similar geometry cut and work really hard in thin sections. This would include some forged blades.
I have seen 5160 forged blades do extreme work if the heat treatment was very good . j. Neilson does a very good job on 5160 as well as Tai Goo .
I still love forged blades , but 3V on a good design will do all that can be asked of a knife. Forging does not limit design . For example socket handles , those would have to be machined.
Floyd
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Disclaimer: I'm a sharpening novice.
Got two bushcrafts. 1 CPM154, and 1 CPM3V.
The CPM154 came scary sharp, the 3V less than ideal...
So I took out the DMTs and followed the instructions on sharpening Scandi grinds here in the forums. What a bear to sharpen!
Bloody hard to raise the burr and I have all the DMT grits (Extra-Extra-Course to Extra-Extra-Fine) + black & green stropping compound... :grumpy:
Don't know why, it must be just me?
Got two bushcrafts. 1 CPM154, and 1 CPM3V.
The CPM154 came scary sharp, the 3V less than ideal...
So I took out the DMTs and followed the instructions on sharpening Scandi grinds here in the forums. What a bear to sharpen!
Bloody hard to raise the burr and I have all the DMT grits (Extra-Extra-Course to Extra-Extra-Fine) + black & green stropping compound... :grumpy:
Don't know why, it must be just me?