Let's say you know some idiot who stripped his knife COMPLETELY.... :/

Very nice. I hope you post pics of how you make the liners. I'm interested in trying to make some.
 
I stripped all the coating from my Beckers and after cleaning with acetone put a heavy coat of Johnsons paste wax on the tangs before bolting the handles on.A heavy coat of RIG grease was also used and worked but the wax proved to be as effective in keeping rust at bay while being less messy to apply.
 
willis said:
I stripped all the coating from my Beckers and after cleaning with acetone put a heavy coat of Johnsons paste wax on the tangs before bolting the handles on.A heavy coat of RIG grease was also used and worked but the wax proved to be as effective in keeping rust at bay while being less messy to apply.
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Good suggestions are still coming in. I like the wax idea, non toxic (with the right kind) and easily renewable.
 
For boat work up here in the NW we use stuff called corroseal on rusty metal (or metal that will rust). It converts rust to magnetite and stops the it from spreading, and I think there is something like it in rustoleum. It paints on clear then turns black. Maybe it could be used on steel knife tangs as well.
 
There is a spray on stuff called ?plastidip? Its made for coating tool handles. Spray it and let it dry, then put the scales on.

What you did looks nice though.
 
Mecha said:
For boat work up here in the NW we use stuff called corroseal on rusty metal (or metal that will rust). It converts rust to magnetite and stops the it from spreading, and I think there is something like it in rustoleum. It paints on clear then turns black. Maybe it could be used on steel knife tangs as well.
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I ended up using the Rustoleum (goes on black then stays black ;)) Rust Convertor or some such. Supposed to do essentially the same thing to already rusted metal. Bladite mentioned the name on page 1 of the thread.

Riz2530 said:
There is a spray on stuff called ?plastidip? Its made for coating tool handles. Spray it and let it dry, then put the scales on.

What you did looks nice though.
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Thanks! It is called Plasti-dip, AFAIK. Rustoleum also makes a "soft touch" spray on rubberized coating (you dip with the Plasti-dip) but it says it's "removeable", whatever that means....and I didn't want it to remove itself. Plus I don't have large enough hands to add any girth to the full size Becker grip, but a couple coats of Plasti-dip might be a good option if you wanted to remove the scales altogether. Hmmm....I wonder how that would be with my 14? See, this is what makes this forum great. Lotsa knowledge out there.
 
FYI I tested approximately 30 rust preventatives (oils/grease/waxes) and top performers were Eezox, Rig, Frog Lube and Cosmoline. Mobile 1 and Johnson's Paste wax did well also. For knife blades I favor Frog Lube because it is suppose to be food safe. Oh, if you get something very corrosive on the metal wash it off and reapply your protectant, blood ate through all of them in short order.
 
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is that because it can deteriorate things like leather sheaths over time? or is it just a preference? I thought it was good for 1095 steel
 
TheMadIndian said:
is that because it can deteriorate things like leather sheaths over time? or is it just a preference? I thought it was good for 1095 steel
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It's toxic. Mineral spirits is paint thinner. Mineral oil, OTOH, is used to condition wood surfaces that you eat off of and is a mild laxative if you drink it straight up. Mineral oil is sold at pharmacies and is safe to ingest, mineral spirits are not - thus the "keep away from children" warning.
 
granitestateofmind said:
It's toxic. Mineral spirits is paint thinner. Mineral oil, OTOH, is used to condition wood surfaces that you eat off of and is a mild laxative if you drink it straight up. Mineral oil is sold at pharmacies and is safe to ingest, mineral spirits are not - thus the "keep away from children" warning.
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Hmm I thought Tuf-cloth was non toxic, I'm going to have to look into this, thanks for the heads up
 
Dan .. It may be a bit odd, but lately I've been using Ceder Hills Farm "Moustache Wax" (bees wax, basically - which works well when softened as well) and comes in a tube (sort of like Chapstick). I imagine any brand would work - if it has a high enough wax content. I use it on the (smooth) wood surface as well as steel on my knives and rub it in, sort of like shoe polish -- to get "spit shine" and under the wood on any surface that touches metal. It's a natural water repellent, works great and is a pretty simple solution -- and non-toxic. I learned the trick from an old WW II Merchant Marine sailor I used to fish with.
 
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That looks like patina, nothing to be worried about.
If it actually gets rusty, that isn't really anything to be worried about either. Sandpaper and wd40 will get it off in a minute.
 
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