Let's talk about anvils

I found a piece of 1x6x12 in 4140 a few months ago when I retired and started putting my shop together, It sits on my work table as a bench anvil of sorts.
When I bought my large piece of cylinder, I also bought a piece of RR track and had planned on trying to weld the two together and then place them in a five gallon bucket of concrete with the track extending straight down into the bucket and the top of the cylinder sticking up out of the concrete. I had read that the concrete would give you more mass, but I don't know how well or how long it would have lasted.
Over the years I've read of a lot of different makeshift solutions that although may look or sound strange, sufficed until something better was found.
 
Funny thing, when I finally got a real anvil, I didn't like it as much as what I was used to! But, I got over THAT.
 
valknut said:
I will agree with this. But my wife nor my budget Will! I'm just wanting to get into forging and kind of difficult to do without said anvil. I'll probably end up just using a piece of railroad and test that out in the mean time.

Side question. Is it "pointless" to do stock removal and NOT take advantage if "super steel " or stainless. If all were making is 10xx, 52100, 80crv2 etc why not just forge them. Kinda seems like it would be 2 strikes for buyers
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Not pointless...Makers either start out as forgers or stock removal and will add the other capability as budget allows. Either way you are still going to have do stock Reduction either with files or grinders. Basic stock removal is less expensive when you start with Carbon steels you listed. You can get more blades per $$ than with stainless just look up the price for 4 feet of CPM154 vs 4 feet of 80CrV2. If you are forging 1075 or W2 look up the price good steel is expensive when you add shipping! Forging requires the investment in either home built forge or purchased you will need a good controllable heat source hammers, tongs, anvil shaped object you see a pattern either way you need task specific tools.
 
Busto said:
Not pointless...Makers either start out as forgers or stock removal and will add the other capability as budget allows. Either way you are still going to have do stock Reduction either with files or grinders. Basic stock removal is less expensive when you start with Carbon steels you listed. You can get more blades per $$ than with stainless just look up the price for 4 feet of CPM154 vs 4 feet of 80CrV2. If you are forging 1075 or W2 look up the price good steel is expensive when you add shipping! Forging requires the investment in either home built forge or purchased you will need a good controllable heat source hammers, tongs, anvil shaped object you see a pattern either way you need task specific tools.
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I see what your saying. I ment more long term. You talked me into my own HT now I wanna forge haha hell of a thing.
 
Best pointer I can give you is since you are stock removing and getting ready to build a 2 brick heat treat forge keep on this track get a few nice blades done through heat treat handles and sheath to carry it. Do some testing for daily chores like cutting cardboard and get a feel for the blade. Keep an eye open for an anvil shaped object and pick up a Big Ball Peen Hammer at a yard sale or flea market. You will have some left over drops from your blades so heat those in your little 2 brick and use Long handle needle nose pliers and beat on those pieces until you can get a feel for how much heat and hammering it takes to move the steel then decide on how much money you will need to move ahead in either category....You have to walk before you learn to run Brother:thumbsup:
 
Busto said:
Best pointer I can give you is since you are stock removing and getting ready to build a 2 brick heat treat forge keep on this track get a few nice blades done through heat treat handles and sheath to carry it. Do some testing for daily chores like cutting cardboard and get a feel for the blade. Keep an eye open for an anvil shaped object and pick up a Big Ball Peen Hammer at a yard sale or flea market. You will have some left over drops from your blades so heat those in your little 2 brick and use Long handle needle nose pliers and beat on those pieces until you can get a feel for how much heat and hammering it takes to move the steel then decide on how much money you will need to move ahead in either category....You have to walk before you learn to run Brother:thumbsup:
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I really appreciate the help! Just trying to figure out my path in this knife making stuff lol
 
I've been stock removing for over 10 years and it pays for itself and just the little forge work I do is for Guards, Pommels, and odd ball items I will add to the knives. I have a full machine shop and really don't have room or ambition enough to invest in a Power Hammer.
If I was 30 years younger it would certainly be something I would want to work into over time. I spent my youth Gunsmithing I know what a shame, but always found time to build a knife or two and then decided stock removal was my path.
 
Busto said:
If I was 30 years younger it would certainly be something I would want to work into over time. I spent my youth Gunsmithing I know what a shame, .
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Im a lifelong hardcore outdoorsman. I spent all the money of my youth on guns and gun trading. My fridge would have a six pack and a bottle of mustard in it.. Actually did some work on them too but not near enough to be called a gunsmith.. I still have a lot of guns but Ive slowed down buying and trading since my son came along.. if I had the money I spent on guns in my youth Id buy 4-5 air hammers just so I would not have to change dies,LOL...
 
At 68 and having spent 30 years working on space shuttle for my paying career and gunsmithing to put the kids through college it was all I could do to rat hole enough to build my machine shop...I traded work for BEER that seemed to work out ok!!!! My Kiddos all grown and kids of their own will get my small fortune in Collectible Firearms/Knives/Motorcycles...IF I don't blow it all on a Red Headed Hussie!!!!:eek::eek:
 
Since we last talked I've begun to really enjoy the thought of heat treating simple carbon steels myself. I'm worried that customers won't like the stock removal and simple steels combined. Like a "since your not forging you might as well use s35vn, elms, 3v etc" mentality.
 
Busto said:
At 68 and having spent 30 years working on space shuttle for my paying career and gunsmithing to put the kids through college it was all I could do to rat hole enough to build my machine shop...I traded work for BEER that seemed to work out ok!!!! My Kiddos all grown and kids of their own will get my small fortune in Collectible Firearms/Knives/Motorcycles...IF I don't blow it all on a Red Headed Hussie!!!!:eek::eek:
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I vote for the red headed hussie cause you only live once and there's no good to come out of spoiling the kids! :D
 
valknut said:
Since we last talked I've begun to really enjoy the thought of heat treating simple carbon steels myself. I'm worried that customers won't like the stock removal and simple steels combined. Like a "since your not forging you might as well use s35vn, elms, 3v etc" mentality.
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You are WAY over Thinking this....I sell more Carbon Steel Fixed Blades than Stainless...BECAUSE That is what I offer and when they are used and find out how easy they are to sharpen in the field I get lots of repeats and word of mouth sales!!!
My Stainless folders sell because of what they are nice reasonable well built knives. My Slipjoints the carbon out sell the stainless more traditional. If you build a good knife word gets around. I let customers test my knives here at the shop let them use some carbon to beat on then the stainless then let them sharpen what they used....Bingo...I'll try one of those Carbon Monsters!!!!
Has anyone yet asked "Since you're not forging you might as well use S35VN or S30V N690 Elmax" by the way 3V is not Stainless.
ETA: Why are you worried about what customers might think...You Are The Maker.
 
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This was a chunk of tool steel I heat treated, but I imagine a 20 lb sledge hammer head would work just as well. There is rebar directly under the anvil, with enough space between for the concrete to flow.

(For general use, you would want more clearance around the anvil, but I only use this for forging hollows in the back of single bevel knives).
 
Busto said:
You are WAY over Thinking this....I sell more Carbon Steel Fixed Blades than Stainless...BECAUSE That is what I offer and when they are used and find out how easy they are to sharpen in the field I get lots of repeats and word of mouth sales!!!
My Stainless folders sell because of what they are nice reasonable well built knives. My Slipjoints the carbon out sell the stainless more traditional. If you build a good knife word gets around. I let customers test my knives here at the shop let them use some carbon to beat on then the stainless then let them sharpen what they used....Bingo...I'll try one of those Carbon Monsters!!!!
Has anyone yet asked "Since you're not forging you might as well use S35VN or S30V N690 Elmax" by the way 3V is not Stainless.
ETA: Why are you worried about what customers might think...You Are The Maker.
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Thanks for the advice. I tend to over think and get carried away lol so I appreciate the dose of reality. You've been a huge help so far.
On another note I was on the ABS website and noticed there is a journeyman Smith right up the street. Shot him an email and hope I can come visit the shop and watch someone work in person.

Tene- that is awesome! I've heard of people using sledge heads but I thought hammer head to hammer head blow would cause chipping and that's never a good thing.
 
I find the stainless vs carbon to be backwards here. People are so use to cheep junk stainless that when I say highcarbon steel thy sit-up and pay attention. Especially with fillet knives for some reasion.
 
Tene- that is awesome! I've heard of people using sledge heads but I thought hammer head to hammer head blow would cause chipping and that's never a good thing.
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Ideally, the two hammers will never directly strike, there is supposed to be a chunk of hot steel inbetween..
Anyway, its never a good idea to strike hammer faces together, but realistically its seldom a problem chipping.
Btw, 20pound sledgehammer will make a fair expedient anvil, is a beast ! Comparativly few are sold. Thus harder to find second hand.
 
I think anvils are normally comparable in hardness to a hammer, so I doubt chipping is going to be a problem.

When in the US, I found a 20 lb sledge hammer for $60 new in the local hardware store. Meanwhile, McMaster-Carr wanted $160 for a 20 lb chunk of un-hardened 4140.
 
Do I've been checking out improvised anvils and got some ideas. Found a 3in dia 6in long hardened 4140 rod for just a few bucks or a 4in dia 1.5in long piece. Thinking a out welding a spike to one or welding some angle iron to it and nailing those to a stump.
Or I just found this guy but that big chip makes me nervous
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