Let's talk salt pots...

jhiggins said:
Since we are talking salt pots, what would be the length of the inside tube? I mean, what would be good dimensions for the salt tubes? I'm considering making some for sale out of 316L and tigging the bottoms on if there is enough interest.

Right now, I am thinking of lengths of 18", 24" and 36"... What do you guys think?
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Jeff, I made my salt pot 26" tall, sched. 40, 316L, 4.5"OD, work done by stainlessandalloy.com.

saltpot.jpg
 
4" I.D. sch 80 would be excellent Jeff. Ideal lengths you got there as well... I'd buy one... preferably a plate for a bottom instead of just a cap... let it stand on its own power.

~Matthew
 
Another source for carbon rods is McMaster-Carr. Look under Graphite under the Raw Materials section.
 
I've been using salt pots for years and have never seen some of the problems mentioned here (pitting in or out of the bath, tough salt scale on blades, etc.). Rather, I've found that the finish that goes into the saltpot is pretty much the finish that comes out.
Like others have mentioned, the hard salt film disolves in water.
I don't even oil parts after washing off the salt residue (which I had neglected to do for days a couple times without negative effects), just dry 'em well (it is dry here in So. Cal, I suppose). I have noticed it will corrode a blade if you leave it on for say a week or more.
Maybe my salts have some additives or something to keep them stable longer.
The product name I use is NuSal for the high-temp (it's supposedly non-toxic and can be disposed of in the trash). The low-temp salt is called Thermoquench. Strangely, it is not so non toxic and cannot be legally disposed of in the trash.
Maybe salt is salt is salt, but I never get these problems.
 
Mr. Caswell, it is interesting that I use the exact same products- NuSal and Thermoquench, and get the same results that you describe. I typically finish to a 600X hand sanding and have nothing more to remove than a blue-gray coloration afterwards. If that coloration is left on I have been surprised at how long the blades can sit without corrosion, and if a coating of thermoquench is left on, the blade will be soaking wet within a day so it is best to rinse that stuff off. Sounds like some chemical differences at work.
 
Mr. Cashen,

I have great respect for your work. It's nice to finally "meet" you.

I've never tried the graphite on the high-temp bath. Do you find it helpful?
 
Jeff,

PLEASE do this! It would be a great service. I think searches of this forum and Sword Forum will yield a bunch of good ideas as far as how and with what to attach the bottom to the pipe.

Keep us informed,

John
 
JCaswell said:
...I've never tried the graphite on the high-temp bath. Do you find it helpful?
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I like the powder very much. It keeps the vapors down and seems to keep things in neutrality. Occasionally I used to get the dreaded polka dots decarb from not watching my salts real close over time, but now with adding a single fresh scoop of NuSal at the begging of the heat treatment, and keeping a thin layer of graphite on the surface, I have virtually no worries anymore (at least from the salts;) ).
 
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