Let's Talk Steels: AUS8A v. AUS10A

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Jan 1, 2015
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I have many AUS8A knives made by Cold Steel. I kept reading how great AUS10A was, so I bought a couple of them, one plain edge and one serrated. Now I've been using the knives (Spartan) for some time for home chores and I can't honestly tell much of a difference between the three (AUS8A, CTS-BD1 and AUS10A). Am I supposed to notice a marked difference? I've always thought some knife reviewers have been rather jaded in their reviews of AUS8A and overenthusiastic about better steels. The two knives I have used have been the 6-inch Ti-Lite (for defense) and a 4-inch Broken Skull XHP for actual cutting.

All have been very good knives, but frankly, I can't tell much difference in the three Spartans I have. Cedric and Ada (on YouTube) says he's able to cut rope 65 times before being unable to slice paper with an AUS8A knife, but with AUS10A he can get about 125 cuts. That sounds rather dramatic. Serrated blades aren't tested, though I have an ancient Voyager serrated blade that is still going strong after years of use. I can see some wearing, or rounding of the scallops, but using my thumb the thing feels sharp as ever, and it was somewhat worn when I got it.

And a few years ago I used a Cold Steel 440A Night Force plain edge that had a vicious edge on it (but then, I kept it that way). Don't know what I did with it, but I have a serrated version in my box. The scallops are bigger with thicker teeth, so it hasn't worn at all, yet it can cut through heavy leather with no problem at all: 440A! I have some non-CS 440A knives I can't get sharp, period. They came dull and they're still dull. Nothing I can do changes that. I figured if Cold Steel made theirs viciously sharp, other knife companies could too. But sadly, no.

Regarding BD1 steel, I haven’t used it enough to form an opinion, but one reviewer scores it:

CTS BD1 VS VG10​

CTS BD1VG 10
EDGE RETENTION7/105/10
EASE OF SHARPNESS4/106/10
CORROSION RESISTANCE5/107/10
TOUGHNESS5/104/10

CTS BD1 VS S30V​

CTS BD1S30V
EDGE RETENTION7/105/10
EASE OF SHARPNESS4/105/10
CORROSION RESISTANCE5/107/10
TOUGHNESS5/106/10

What steel do you like? And which has worked best for you? And have any of you been able to tell any difference between XHP and CPM-S35VN? And which of these steels have you not had good luck with?
 
Lots of questions here. My observations: Cold Steel’s AUS8 and AUS10 are pretty close all around. I have noticed a slight difference in edge holding, sharpening, and staining.

XHP had been noticeably easier to sharpen than their S35VN. Holds an edge as long or longer, at the expense of corroding a little more readily.

The chart you posted doesn’t match my experiences, concerning their BD1. I think it holds an edge noticeably worse than S30V, and seems to be more equal to VG10.
 
Yes, there seems to be a bit of opinion mixed with such charts. Some people get so caught up with these things that they never seem happy with what they have and they are constantly upgrading their knives. Here are two more charts from the same source.

CTS XHP VS S30V​

CTS XHPS30V
EDGE RETENTION7/105/10
EASE OF SHARPNESS4/105/10
CORROSION RESISTANCE5/107/10
TOUGHNESS5/106/10

CTS XHP VS S35VN​

CTS XHPS35VN
EDGE RETENTION7/106/10
EASE OF SHARPNESS4/106/10
CORROSION RESISTANCE5/107/10
TOUGHNESS5/106/10

I've never bought a knife from Cold Steel that I've hated. AUS8A and AUS10A have both been fine with me. I have a D2 knife that suddenly, and with no warning, caused a chink in the edge. Once I cleaned it up, it caused a chip about two-thirds up. Not real happy with that. I've never had a rust problem with AUS8A, and as a knife steel it's served me well.
 
One mystery I've always wondered about is San Mai steel. I've never seen it reviewed, and with the center steel being common VG1, I wonder if that VG1 is hardened to the point of being brittle or whether it's just inexpensive VG1?

Why doesn't Cold Steel just use VG10 like everyone else? Yes, is a presentational blade concoction, but I'm curious, does anyone on this forum actually use their their Cold Steel San Mai knives and, if so, what kind of performance do you see? (I think before VG1, AUS8A was used.)

I have numerous Voyagers with VG1 blades. Are those Voyagers’ steel any different than the VG1 in Cold Steel's San Mai knives?

Oh, and if you have any photos of your San Mai knives, please post them. Cold Steel seems to use common steel as its core steel, while other knives makers put a better steel as their core steels.
 
Cold Steel's XHP was really good, shame they downgraded to S35VN. I still have my Recon with it, and it's very well loved. I had a large Voyager with BD1 and wasn't really impressed, it's a budget steel after all, and for the price and knife you're getting it's alright. I still carry a Mini Recon with AUS 8 from time to time, but not enough to really judge, as far as I can tell aus 8 and 13cr are the same thing to me, sharpen as easy dull as easy.
 
One mystery I've always wondered about is San Mai steel. I've never seen it reviewed, and with the center steel being common VG1, I wonder if that VG1 is hardened to the point of being brittle or whether it's just inexpensive VG1?

Why doesn't Cold Steel just use VG10 like everyone else? Yes, is a presentational blade concoction, but I'm curious, does anyone on this forum actually use their their Cold Steel San Mai knives and, if so, what kind of performance do you see? (I think before VG1, AUS8A was used.)

I have numerous Voyagers with VG1 blades. Are those Voyagers’ steel any different than the VG1 in Cold Steel's San Mai knives?

Oh, and if you have any photos of your San Mai knives, please post them. Cold Steel seems to use common steel as its core steel, while other knives makers put a better steel as their core steels.
They do use VG10 now, in their San Mai offerings from Taiwan.
 
One mystery I've always wondered about is San Mai steel. I've never seen it reviewed, and with the center steel being common VG1, I wonder if that VG1 is hardened to the point of being brittle or whether it's just inexpensive VG1?

Why doesn't Cold Steel just use VG10 like everyone else? Yes, is a presentational blade concoction, but I'm curious, does anyone on this forum actually use their their Cold Steel San Mai knives and, if so, what kind of performance do you see? (I think before VG1, AUS8A was used.)

I have numerous Voyagers with VG1 blades. Are those Voyagers’ steel any different than the VG1 in Cold Steel's San Mai knives?

Oh, and if you have any photos of your San Mai knives, please post them. Cold Steel seems to use common steel as its core steel, while other knives makers put a better steel as their core steels.
reviewed by someone talkin about it, or using it? I never looked for reviews on it by youtube chatterboxes so not sure on that. i did see that the ol Joe x guy smashed it until it broke on a Taiwan made vg10 San mai srk. it held up decently to his beating it til it broke routine.....
I'd expect the vg1 version san mai would fare as well if not even a bit better......
 
Well, if’n you want a usable San Mai blade, you should have a hard brittle, sharp center sandwiched between two soft, highly corrosion-resistant slabs of steel like 420J. I couldn't believe it when CS put AUS8A as the center steel years ago. I have a highly polished San Mai boot knife with VG-1 center. But I have no idea whether the core-steel ever had a different heat treat than its regular blade steel. Or what people who use San Mai say about sharpening and using it.

Just finished watching Equalizer 3. I wish Cold Steel had financed it. That way we could have seen our favorite knives sticking out of people's heads and elsewhere on their bodies in that opening scene!
Cold Steel's XHP was really good, shame they downgraded to S35VN. I still have my Recon with it, and it's very well loved. I had a large Voyager with BD1 and wasn't really impressed, it's a budget steel after all, and for the price and knife you're getting it's alright.
Is XHP really better than S35VN? I've seen some people, not really trashing XHP, but marginalizing it. Others love it, though, and I bought a bunch of it before CS switched to S35VN. When they changed steels, they used to have these wonderful sales at substantial discounts. I cashed in my life insurance (not really), sold my mother to the Turks (bye, mom!) and bought as much as I could fit in my safe. Now, the only Recon I can afford is the 2-inch, which Amazon incorrectly describes as S35VN. It's really cheap stainless steel.

They do use VG10 now, in their San Mai offerings from Taiwan.
Before or after Lynn Thompson?
 
Is XHP really better than S35VN? I've seen some people, not really trashing XHP, but marginalizing it. Others love it, though, and I bought a bunch of it before CS switched to S35VN. When they changed steels, they used to have these wonderful sales at substantial discounts. I cashed in my life insurance (not really), sold my mother to the Turks (bye, mom!) and bought as much as I could fit in my safe. Now, the only Recon I can afford is the 2-inch, which Amazon incorrectly describes as S35VN. It's really cheap stainless steel.


Before or after Lynn Thompson?
From my subjective experience, yeah. Sharpens real nice and keeps a keen edge for longer, but working edge doesn't last that long. S35VN loses its sticky-sharp edge quicker but maintains a working edge longer. In terms of edge retention they're quite similar. But I've had some hit or miss experience with S35VN, most notably an early version of a ZT 0808, heat treat was so bad I had to contact KAI to check weather or not its a counterfeit (it wasn't), took a fair bit off the edge before it started behaving more in line with S30V. CRK's S35VN on the other hand is excellent. I have a Lawman in S35VN but I haven't used it enough to judge. I don't know if it matters but both my Recon and Code 4 scored an average of 63.5 HRC out of three tests each, which is as good as it gets on a production knife.
 
I believe I heard Lynn state in a Youtube video that their AUS10 has a 20 percent advantage in Edge Retention versus AUS8.
Might be a bit more than that.

IMO, whether you notice the difference will depend on what you use your knives for. Also will depend on how you sharpen them and the primary bevel angles you have on each blade. Blade geometry has more impact on edge retention than blade alloy does. So to make a valid comparison the edge angles need to be the same.

AUS 10 has better abrasion resistance than AUS 8.
It also wants to be sharpened using diamond or alumina media, whereas AUS 10 can be sharpened with a natural stone.
edited to correct typo: whereas AUS 8 can be sharpened with a natural stone.

So if all the other factors are taken into consideration, if you use your knives to cut abrasive materials, then I'd expect you would notice the difference.
 
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Might be a bit more than that.

IMO, whether you notice the difference will depend on what you use your knives for. Also will depend on how you sharpen them and the primary bevel angles you have on each blade. Blade geometry has more impact on edge retention than blade alloy does. So to make a valid comparison the edge angles need to be the same.

AUS 10 has better abrasion resistance than AUS 8.
It also wants to be sharpened using diamond or alumina media, whereas AUS 10 can be sharpened with a natural stone.

So if all the other factors are taken into consideration, if you use your knives to cut abrasive materials, then I'd expect you would notice the difference.
Think you mean AUS8 for natural stone?
 
I believe I heard Lynn state in a Youtube video that their AUS10 has a 20 percent advantage in Edge Retention versus AUS8.
Twenty percent isn't much unless you're talking about a lot of whatever you're talking about! I never had any gripe with AUS8A, but some people really didn't like it.

I look at the SR-K knives and like them, but I hear sharpening them can be a pain. I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Will it sharpen the SR-K knives okay?

I also have two Rajah IIs, a black AUS8A one and an AUS10A stone-washed one. Any idea if I'll see any difference whacking vines this summer? Should I use 20° or 25°? Which does Cold Steel usually use?

Thnx.
 
Twenty percent isn't much unless you're talking about a lot of whatever you're talking about! I never had any gripe with AUS8A, but some people really didn't like it.

I look at the SR-K knives and like them, but I hear sharpening them can be a pain. I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Will it sharpen the SR-K knives okay?

I also have two Rajah IIs, a black AUS8A one and an AUS10A stone-washed one. Any idea if I'll see any difference whacking vines this summer? Should I use 20° or 25°? Which does Cold Steel usually use?

Thnx.
yes, shaprmaker ceramics work fine on sk5, San Mai, even 3v steels in srks. which I think is all the current steels used in the srks.

aus8 and aus10 can handle 20 degrees each side or 40 inclusive on the microbevel. I see no real reason to go wider.....

now saying whacking vines...meaning thin green and softer vines or thick woody harder ones? controlled cutting I see no real issue at 20 per side, but hard whacking on thick hard woody vines you might see some rolling possible chipping, but only if you're really hammering and applying sideways torq at it.

I dont know cold steel sharpening angles from the factory, but they seem to be consistently somewhere between 30 and 40 inclusive...or 15 + to 20 + per side range.
 
yes, shaprmaker ceramics work fine on sk5, San Mai, even 3v steels in srks. which I think is all the current steels used in the srks.
Thank you for your post. Makes sense. I'll go with 20° each side. Sharpmaker used to have an even finer ceramic, which I bought. Have you ever used one?
 
Thank you for your post. Makes sense. I'll go with 20° each side. Sharpmaker used to have an even finer ceramic, which I bought. Have you ever used one?
yeah I have those ultra fine white ceramics. I just use diamond, the grey/brown and regular white/fine stone most often. I don't see it worth the effort to use the ultra fine white ceramics. they work too, but I'm good with fine ceramics as the end.
 
I don't see it worth the effort to use the ultra fine white ceramics. they work too, but I'm good with fine ceramics as the end.
Is the ultra-fine used instead of the fine or with the fine? I've never actually used mine.
 
Is the ultra-fine used instead of the fine or with the fine? I've never actually used mine.
the idear as I always understood it is starting with brown/grey, once burr is worked up and removed.....move to fine or white. same deal burr and removed. then ultra fine if wanting to keep refining the edge.

start with diamond or cbn ones if reprofiling or sharpening out chips or damage edge. and work your way up.

there used to be a video included on how to use the sharpener and ceramics....starring Sal himself
 
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