Life Experiences That Affected The Way You Make Knives

Rick Marchand

Donkey on the Edge
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As not to clutter threads with long-winded personal opinions and topic stretching stories... I thought I would start a thread to allow folks to make public, some of the reasons why we have chosen certain routes in our knifemaking endevours. It can be anything from why you use a certain brand of epoxy, to what made you decide to switch from forging to stock removal. Just give your post an appropriate title and fire away.

Questions are okay. I would like this NOT to get into a debate.... state your reasoning, ask for clarification from others but try not to directly challenge or judge what other folks share. Your contribution should be able to stand on its own two feet without knocking down others.

Rick
 
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I kinda pooped in another thread with this loooong reply. It is better suited for a thread like this....

The only experience I have is real world application. When I started making knives they were only for my personal use and I wanted the strongest, toughest, most indestructible knife in the world... lol... turns out, it's not that easy to make a good knife. Immediately, passing the ABS JS performance test became a goal. A knife that could pass the test would be the ultimate survival knife. I began working with MS Wally Hayes and one of the first things he told me to check out was MS Ed Caffrey's 5160 performance test knife tutorial.(Excellent tutorial BTW.) Something that popped out while reading, was the second sentence of the paragraph on hardening.... "I recommend edge quenching ONLY on a blade that will be used for something as important as the ABS JS test." What did that mean? Why would you ONLY want to use this great technique for a test knife? Surely, it would carry over into real world hard use.:cool:

About the same time, I began apprenticing with a Canadian Wilderness Survival and Primitive Living instructor in Northern Ontario. This guy had no respect for knives.. lol... digging, prying, chipping at rock.... I was disgusted..... but interested at the same time. THIS GUY would find any weakness in my knives.:thumbup: I started making knives to his specs and they failed... i made them to my specs and they failed.:grumpy: Why?.... they were bending and when I made one thick enough to resist deformation, it was too bulky. I was stumped. I sought guidance. Wally told me to fully harden the blade and draw back the spine. I told him that the last thing I wanted was my knives to break when I bent them. He quickly replied, "Well, why the hell are you make a knife that will bend, when you need it to stay strong? Make a stronger knife.... one that won't bend and you can't break.... make the tool suit the task." That's when it hit me and Ed's sentence suddenly made perfect sense. The ABS JS performance test requires the blade to be flexed 90deg. It doesn't matter if it takes 5ftlbs of torque or 500! It MUST flex and not break. They are testing your skill as a maker, not whether you make a good knife. When would you require a blade to flex that much during actual use?(okay... OTHER than a fillet knife... lol.)

I began taking bars of 5160 and running tests on pieces 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" thick. Unground, heat treated and tempered to varying hardness. I didn't have a Rockwell tester, so simply went with tempering temperatures (my oven only went to 525F, after that, I went by colour). The 1/4" bars were rather uneventful... whichever hardness or structural state I had them in, I still couldn't bend them by hand. It started getting interesting with the thinner stock. Once more, I had to get used to the sound of metal snapping. This time around was different than my JS test quest, though. I was very careful to be aware of the amount of force I was placing upon the steel. I found that the fullhard bars took MUCH more force to flex to the same degree as the unhardened pieces and if I tempered enough, would withstand even more force. I upped the tempering temps until I felt I was losing strength and the steel would take a set more readily(this was WELL into the grey colour… my guess would be 700-900F. The soft untreated bars deformed at even the smallest degree of flex and offered very little resistance in comparison. One test, that I wish I would have done at the beginning was to take two identical, triple normalized bars, fully harden one, shine them both up, temper to peacock blue and flex each to 45degs(noting force applied/resistance and degree of set.) Then continue flexing back and forth(45deg, L&R) like a dog’s wagging tail. Realign to center and repeat the 45deg flex, once more. The result is predictable but no less shocking. The unhardened blade now flexes like lead with VERY little resistance and immediate set. The hardened and tempered blade feels no different than it did the first time. That test ALONE would have convinced me to further research a homogeneous heat treat.

At the same time, I began educating myself on the mechanical properties of each micro-structure within steel. It was very reassuring to see that the basic results from my low-tech approach coincided with the research done by the steel nerds in lab coats. (minus the metallography) I must say, that delving into modern metallurgy is a huge undertaking and I've only scratched the surface. You won't find me quoting data sheets or typing out long runs of eloquent terminology..... I'm just not there, yet. But man, I have been bitten by the bug.

My experiment taught me a very important lesson..... Unhardened prybars don’t pry, they bend and have a short lifespan. My quest for the unbreakable knife led me to a blade that was lacking performance attributes in areas that I deemed important. Sometimes, less extreme treatments can yield the most desirable results. It would be silly for me to state that the edge quenched blade is inferior to the fully hardened blade based on regular performance. Most users will never push their knives that far into the realm of abuse. I judge by what I can experience. I take into consideration the opinions and reasearch done by folks I have respect for but at the end of the day, I need to know how it affects the end user. Lateral strength affects my end users and Fully Hardened blades address the issue, in this instance.

This was the last knife I sent to my wilderness skills mentor. (almost 4yrs ago, this month.) It was only meant to test the blade so the F&F are rough. He refuses to send it back or receive a new one, for fear of losing the best knife he has ever tried to break….. That means a lot to me. It didn’t even come with a sheath but he said it fits in an old BK&T one. (that is embarrassing)

Modeled by my lovely Blue Spotted House Monkey…
Bushkeeper05.jpg
 
Thats funny, because I was telling a friend of mine a story about my starting out as a knifemaker. About 23-24 years ago I was buying some blades from an old boy in MO that was cutting blades out of some old L6 crosscut sawmill blades. I was finishing them out to a high polish, putting handles on them, and making sheaths. I was walking around a local gun and knife show with about 5 of them on an old belt when an old knifemaker setup at a booth wanted to see what I was carrying around. I told him I was a knifemaker too and started explaining to him about the blades, where they came from and what I was doing to him when he interupts me starts calling me a "handle maker" very loudly and calling people over that was walking by and making fun of me for calling myself a knifemaker when I was nothing but a handle maker and not that good of one at that........Pi**ed me off real bad, I slumped home with my tail between my legs, did my research, bought a Coote grinder and an Evenheat oven and commenced making knives. Later I pondered on if I should be mad at the old knifemaker or thank him for pushing me out off the cliff. Well he is dead and gone now and I found out later that he treated everyone that way. Anyway I'm self taught and I don't do things the way that other makers probably do it....but its the way I know and it works for me. Thanks for letting me share!
Jim
Stag & Steel
 
I like making things... I like being able to hold something and say "this is something that I made, and it's a quality item, better than what I can get in the store" I like the feeling of pride I get when I can point to something and say "I did that!" I take that philosophy to everything that I do, be it the software I write at work, or the car that I'm restoring currently. I dont like doing anything halfassed, and I always want to be able to say, no matter how good or bad something is, that I did the absolute best that I could.

Unfortunately I'm also a perfectionist, and by far my own worst critic. This leads to me spending a lot of time on tools and research, history, and design, and then getting half done something and saying "bah I can do better" and then abandoning the half finished-something to start again. Unfortunately my car is taking all my shop time this year, but when it comes down to it, it's time for me to "$h!t or get off the pot" and start making some real good knives.
 
I started my first knife when I was 14 by reading the Popular Mechanics Do It Yourself Encyclopedia article about how to make a knife, I annealed a nicholson file and started filing it to shape, I finished that one in the metal labs at RIT under the guidance of a grad student named Mark Morgan who taught me how to heat treat and temper (and finish grind) I then went on as a stock removal maker for a few years, I switched to O-1 for my third knife and began to fine tune my heat treat process by reading everything I could and abuse testing every blade I made until it broke and trying to figure out what went wrong. I finally figured I had the process down when I had a knife that didn't break even when I used it to cut an access hole in my Chrysler door and used a hammer to drive it through the safety bar. I made up a couple of batches of knives like that one and sold them, and things were going pretty well, then I got Jim Hrisoulas' book and used my acetylene torch as a forge to hammer out a blade from a little piece of cutter scrap from the local chain factory. I was hooked on the possibilities of forging after that and for the next 15 years did no stock removal blades. About 8 years ago someone who should know better said something inaccurate about the properties of 13th and 14th century knives, so I set out on a quest to make a metallurgically correct 13th century knife which (surprise) meant I had to learn metallurgy, and smelting etc. In the process I learned enough metallurgy to get a job as a metallurgical assistant engineer in an aerospace superalloy manufactring plant. Now I forge most of my knives, (except the ones I make from CPM 154 which are stock removal) make my own damascus because I want to make steel that looks good then make knives out of it, and sometimes smelt my own iron for making historical replica blades.

-Page
 
Which direction to the "real world"?

If anyone finds it, let us all know and we'll build you a shrine...
 
I did a "bit-more-than-edge-quench-not-quite-full-blade" because that was all I could do with the huge honking piece of steel I was working with using the limited equipment I had.:)
So far it's beating the hell out of anything I use it on.:thumbup:
Of course, I also deliberately made it far huger in all regards to compensate for any limitations which would exist due to the rudimentary set-up I had. You would need a giant cheater bar to bend it; no human would be able to unassisted.

It could be an item at Prybars 'R Us no problem.:D
 
Which direction to the "real world"?

If anyone finds it, let us all know and we'll build you a shrine...

I tend to find the real world when I open the door and look outside.:)
(now where's my shrine...)
 
Which direction to the "real world"?

If anyone finds it, let us all know and we'll build you a shrine...

Look behind you, Tai.... you already passed it.


Thanks guys...... This is streering toward a "How I got started thread, but that is still cool.

Does anyone have tales of why they choose a particular process?

Hidden tangs
Satin finish
Geometry
Pins or Bolts

That kind of thing?
 
Hidden tangs
Satin finish
Geometry
Pins or Bolts

That kind of thing?
I like convex edges, so I went with convex. Seems to hold up to my abusive wood bashing desires the best.:) I tapered the last knife I made a bit towards the edge to improve cutting, but I was still thinking more along the lines of a Clax type of knife. Near the tip I didn't taper much at all, because I wanted more tip strength, and plenty of mass out front to give more "oomph!" Near the choil is where the fine cutting will be done with a huge blade anyway, so that the part that got more taper.
I avoid satin finish because I want my forged knife to look, well, forged. "The hammer is what makes it good."
I prefer to use bolts rather than pins for two reasons.
One---they just seem stronger to me...prove that they aren't and they'll still SEEM stronger to me.:D
Two---I lke to take the scales off and clean everything. I also like the option of making more scales in different materials to accessorize. Hey, why CAN'T my knife match the clothes I'm wearing that day, right?;)
 
Follow my voice..... bawlz, I'm typing..... follow the clicking sounds.


I changed the Tai-tle of the thread to better reflect it's intention.
 
<SNIP>

Does anyone have tales of why they choose a particular process?

Hidden tangs
Satin finish
Geometry
Pins or Bolts

That kind of thing?


Hidden tangs

I used to make all of my knives with the full tang/pinned scale construction because I was under the impression that that construction led to the strongest knife, I hated doing it, and really didn't like the look but was convinced that it gave the "best" knife, then as I learned more from reading, studying historical blades, and talking to other smiths at Ashokan I realised that there wasn't any good reason durability wise to go with pinned slab scale handle/full tang knives, and that a properly constructed stick tang/ hidden tang knife was as strong for most purposes and less likely to lose bits of the handle. I have always done partial stick (rat tail) tangs for antler handle knives and so far have had none fail in the 20 years I have been doing antler handles.

Satin finish (I don't really do satin finish much, I like either a high polish or an etched surface)

Geometry: When I started out I did everything with a slight convex grind because it was easy I have found that a flat grind cuts more agressively and is easier to sharpen to consistantly aggressively sharp, so now the only thing I will do a convex grind on is axes

Pins or Bolts: I hate pins. I now do a threaded tang and have started to make trick socket head bolts for attaching tangs through buttcaps, although I will occasionally peen a tang over a pommel on something that will never need to come apart


-Page
 
and that a properly constructed stick tang/ hidden tang knife was as strong for most purposes and less likely to lose bits of the handle.
Would that tendency to lose bits depend alot on material used?
I cannot see losing bits of G10 or Micarta, but maybe with wood.
Just curious.:)
 
Very sensible and well thought post - thank you. I did not change the way I make knives because I just started making them 7 months ago. I used knives for many different tasks in many different situations and places and I thought it would be a fun challenge to start making them based on my experience as a knife user. I am having fun with it. My experiences as a tool user drive my designs. I keep things simple - design, material, fit and finish. I focus on making a tool with zero "fluff" (see below).
 
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I started making knives because I ha e always carried a knife. Everyday for better than 20 years. I love to craft, and figured I could make a knife at least as good aas one I can buy. I aam still fairly new to this, but have spent countless hours researching types of knives, different types of wood, and heat treating. I really got the bug when I worked in the metallurgy department at a heat ttreat factory. Since then I have become fascinated in sculpted knives, but am still testing the usability of such knives. Over the course of the last few months, the heat treating aspect has been my primary focus. I figure that a knife can be usable and beautiful at the same time. I have been ann artist my whole life and am trying to implement this into my work.
 
Cool.... I guess "change" wasn't the word I was looking for, either.

New Title.... again.
 
I will have to add that I like making hidden tang knives. I like the challenges presente with the fit and finish. I like the fact that the whole handle is continous material without the tang showing. I still like full tang knives, just prefer to make hidden.
 
Getting out into the woods to REALLY use my knives was probably one of the biggest influences on me.
Using them in the kitchen was another one.
Actual use really shows what is useful in a knife and what is fluff.
 
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